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Wolfgang, VW Master Technician
Category: VW
Satisfied Customers: 4578
Experience:  Senior VW Master Tech 15 yrs
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I have a 2006 Passat 2.0t. I'm getting codes p2294, p2181,

Customer Question

Hello. I have a 2006 Passat 2.0t. I'm getting codes p2294, p2181, p2004. And also the epc code. The car falls flat on its face after about 3k rpm. I changed the diverter valve today because it was leaking. Nothing changed. It jerks as it's climbing the rpm range too. This is my first vw, so I'm not sure where to start. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: VW
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.


This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.

As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattenedpiece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

It’s also worth getting the fuel pressure checked as if this is low due to a blocked filter or faulty regulator or even a poorly pump will all result in insufficient fuel being delivered to the engine

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so the weather and engine temperature can effect them.

This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks

its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue

On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Unplugged mass air. The idle got better and less surging as picking up speed. Noticed a huge split in the brake booster hose. Fixed that. It almost feels like the cars not boosting? I can't hear the turbo spool. And it has no power. I checked all over for vac leaks but the only one found is the one mentioned. Could the pcv possibly be bad?
Expert:  Matt replied 1 year ago.


yes a faulty pcv is quite common on these when then effects the vacuum pipework and turbo N75 control valve

check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.

If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues

Also have a feel around with your bare hands with the engine running to see if you can feel any escaping gas under your touch. Another method is to use a soap and water solution sprayed onto any suspect areas - if there's a leak it'll bubble up with the engine running

Also check that the vacuum hose running to the dump / turbo bypass valve is intact with no leaks as if the dump valve is opening prematurely you'll be losing all your boost

If this is OK then remove the high pressure intake hose after the turbo and have a feel of the turbine wheel - there should be no play radially at all - but a little bit of axial / end to end float is normal

one other possibility is that the wastegate actuator spring has gone soft so allowing the wastegate to open prematurely - if your actuator has a threaded end you can increase the preload on it to see if this improves things otherwise these units are quite cheap compared to a new turbo so it may be worth trying a replacement

Expert:  Wolfgang replied 1 year ago.

Thanks for choosing Just Answer . I'm Wolfgang here to help!!

I am confident we can resolve your problem together. Please
understand that I don't know your skill level. In most cases when you have a problem
with the way the vehicle performs, specialized tooling is required to acquire computer
data/information or engine testing results. We didn’t build these complicated vehicles; we
just diagnose and fix them. Also understand that I can't see, smell, hear, or touch the
vehicle either, so it may take a few replies to get to satisfactory results. I am also going to
direct you with the fastest, easiest and most common things to check first. Please be
patient and permit me to do what I do best.
I also try to give all of the information you may need, expecting a “positive rating” in
return. I will also continue assisting you after you have rated me, if necessary. If there
is any reason I cannot get a positive rating, please let me know why “in advance”, so I
can go another direction for you. I am sorry you’re having this problem; I’ll help you
through it.
Below is my first answer or request for more information. If you do not understand it, or you need more information from me, or need me to go in more detail.

i do need you to check at the high pressure fuel pump and see if the plug is in all the way and inspect the wires to see if there is any breaks or chaffs in that area

please see pic of location .

that needs to be rectified first before anything else with your codes. if that is good you will need a digital ohm meter to make some checks .

let me know if you are ready at that point


Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I checked the high pressure fuel pump. The plug is in all the way. And no chaffing of wires. I have to add,I've been driving with mass air unplugged bc it drives better but still don't feel any turbo power. Also, runs worse when it's cold. Like through the rpm range up to 3k it will surge, and then fall flat on its face and barely pick up speed.
Expert:  Wolfgang replied 1 year ago.

ok do you have vag com scan tool ?


Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No.I don't. There's a local guy who does lots of work on VW's that may have one. He has a small shop. Not sure if he messes with the newer stuff, but I'm going to find out tomorrow if he has one. Earlier, I shut it off. Had to start it about 30 min earlier to leave and it just wanted to crank and not start. Finally it started up third time after two key cycles of cranking for 5 seconds each time.
Expert:  Wolfgang replied 1 year ago.

i need to know the fuel pressure readings of the low pump and the high pump while running . with scan tool measure value block 103 and 106 that is really what i need right now!!

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