I have just rebuilt a 71 VW Bug engine for a dune buggy. I have it installed and the basic wiring connected to start it,

OK, i am on vacation right now so I am working on this thing constantly. I am in Massachusetts, and going on a famioy trip to New Hampshire on the 22nd, and all the kids want me to have this thing running so we can bring it with us. I have been working on this thing for about two months now, full restoration, and i have this, running all the wires, installing gauges and paint left.... if I can get this motor running by the weekend, I think I can do it!! Thanks for your help Jason, hopefully we can get this thing running!!

Scott

Valve gap is correct, definately @ TDC... I have had to take the drive gear out before, and I had to drill mand tap the center of it for a screw to be able to get it out, is there any other way that this should be done?? When I do get the shaft out, I rotate it until the nothc in the top of the shaft is pointing at 2 o'clock? Does the fat side or short side point forward? I just ask because I went by the John Muir book before, and it said I had to have the shaft notch parallel to the front of the case, and the large part facing front, while at TDC, which puts the rotor at 5'oclock. Obviously i guess that didnt help me any!! I just want to make sure of which way i am supposed to position the top of the drive shaft.

I still get nothing. I dont understand, everything is there, but it doesn't even try to sputter or anything.

OK, #1 has .006 gap on both, pully TDC aligned with case half. #2 intake tight, exhaust really loose. #3 both really loose, #4 Intake really loose, exhaust tight.

Completed, Rotated 360, now at what the pulley says TDC, #1 both very loose, #2 Intake loose, exhaust no play, #3 both no play, #4 intake no play, exhaust very loose.

Alright, i think I did it... I had already started to spin the distributor and re wire, so I had to put it back... hopefully I did it right or I just ruined all the progress. I promise I will wait to hear from you until i go ahead! I have the valves adjusted, It is at TDC now with the rotor pointing toward 10 o'clock like it was, and that position has the #1 wire on it, and all others are changed.

On the plugs, numbers 3 & 4 were fouled way more than 1 & 2, if that means anything... After I cleaned and dried them, It started and ran for about a minute, a little choppy, but ran. It stalled out, and again won't start.

I think I am going to take the top off the driver carb and clean it out first..

Hi Jason,

I dont know what happened, but I had posted about four more items, and they don't show up here. I was wondering why I hadnt heard back, you are usually good at getting back pretty quickly. Anyway, I have gotten closer, but still won't sit and idle by itself. I did a video for you to actually see and hear what was happening, maybe you see or hear something that will help you. Here is the link:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXReX7zNKLY

After making this, I fiddled with it more, and had it sitting at idle for about two minutes on it's own. I had the timing light on it, and it was idling at 1130. It would then start to decrease, and stall out. On the way down, the carbs were making the sucking noise a little, then it would stall out. As you will see in the video, I had to keep giving it five or six pumos to start it every time. i f I wouldn't, it seemed like it wouldn't start. Take a look at the video if you can, and let me know what you think. I really want to try and knock this out, my timeline is getting shorter!!! Hopefully I will not have all the interruptions that I did today. Thanks for your help.

I am having trouble posting again...

I installed teh electric fuel pump, and it started right up, so definately the pump. I have it idling about 800-850, and am uploading another video now, but of course it says another 2 hours remaining.

Here are some things that are going on:

1. I have alot of smoke coming from various parts of the engine, exhaust pipes, head fins mostly, but where it is smoking, there is noyhing leaking, seems like it is just smokinjg because it is so hot.. This normal in a new engine??

2. The exhaust smells of fumes badly.

3. When idling, as I try to bring it up slowly with the accelerator, it gets to about 1700 - 1900 or so and the carbs cough, one gives off a small backfire, and the engine wants to cut out. It will not take steady pedal.

4. I have a couple of oil leaks here and there that I am going to chase now, three of the rod tubes have a drip going, of course the valve cover, and a small one I think coming from the oil filter tower which is brand new, Please let me know that you got this so I know they are going through. Thanks.

I have it now at 20 ATDC, and idling pretty smoothly at 970-990, fluctuates a bit, but sounds smooth. Still have the problem with giving it steady gas, I get it to about 1600 now, and the carbs start popping, and it bogs out.

I am starting at idle, then turning the distributor until it hit 940 or so, the flash the light and that is what I was reading. Then, I was rotating the distributor to get the number down from 20 to 10, and that is far as I could go.

Also, unfortunately, I have just developed a pretty good leak from the front of the case, its dripping off the lower case bolt, I am going to trace it, I hope it isn't the front seal....

Should I do a compression check before I yank it out??

It is the original case, the only part of the engine that is!!

Compression results:

#1---140

#2---135

#3---140

#4---135

Starting the unbolting now...

OK, separated it, and oil all over the inside of the tranny, and clutch. The front seal is the culprit. the spring is kinked, and the shoulder or the seal was separated form the body of the seal for about two inches. I wish I could upload pictures to show you, but I have been trying for 20 minutes, and it just doesn't go. So how do I prevent this from happening again? Did I not seat it correctly the first time??

Here is the link for the video earlier, it is a little old now compared to all the other things that have transpired, but maybe yuo can get some more info from this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GlZhN61zUk

Hi Jason,

Hopefully you remember me somewhat... I got relocated for work for about 9 months, now I am back and ready to get back to finishing this! Please let me know when you are available, and I can update you on where we left off, pretty much havent touched it .... Thanks, Scott

OK, here we go... I have attached a link to a video I just took. I think I have it pretty closely dialed in, I have it timed at 29-30 BTDC @ 3300-3500 RPM, and it's at about 7-8 BTDC @ idle. Idle RPM is between 870-900, fluctuates a bit. Here are a couple issues I see and hear:

1. When I rev it up steady to a high RPM, once I let off, small puffs of black smoke, and intermittently at idle it will also smoke for a few seconds, then go away.

2. Took it for a few test drives, and I'm getting pops out of the carbs, (mainly the passenger) when shifting.

3. At idle, it sounds like that carb is sucking air sometimes.

4. Spark plugs are dry, but very carbon sooty.

5. At times it does smell pretty fumey out the tailpipe, but I guess I would get that since there are no emmissions or cat equipment on it??

Let me know what you think when you see the video, and what my next step should be. Do you think

I have not sunced the carbs with a uni sync, but have dialed them as far as mixture and idle following instructions on the Low Bugget website, for Solex 40 / 44 EIS. I did notice I have a bit of an exhaust leak up at the collector, you will probably be able to notice the carbon on the pipe at the connection. Also, did the engine seem to have more of a clicking to it than it should? Here is the link, Thanks!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgMtAS9yW2o