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Max, VW Shop Foreman
Category: VW
Satisfied Customers: 190
Experience:  10 Years experience, VW certified technician, ASE certified Master Technician
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I have a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8t GL. My check engine light just ...

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I have a 2003 VW Jetta 1.8t GL. My check engine light just came on, I had it read, and it show a misfire in cylinder 4, which leads me to believe that it is time for a tune up. I have multiple questions with this one. First, do I need to purchase NGK sparkplugs to replace the OEM plugs? Second, is it necessary to replace the coils when I replace the plugs? Third, My Bently Manual calls for a special tool, t10094 or t40039 to remove these coils. Is this tool necessary and if so how do I get it? Fourth, and last, question.. Here is my VIN number: 3VWRE69M13M062006 - Do I have an AWD, a AWW, or a AWP engine? All show different methods in which to change the plugs. All info is appreciated and, as always, will be rewarded.

Good afternoon Nickolas,

First off, welcome back to just answer. You have the AWP engine installed in your Jetta. The coils installed in the 1.8T have a very high failure rate and have had multiple supercessions of the part number in an attempt to fix this concern. I recommend replacing all four of the coils to prevent misfires from occurring in the future. The coils run about 32 dollars at the dealer, try to purchase the coils from the dealer so that you get the most current part number (do not know it off the top of my head, can get it on Monday). I use NGK plugs in my VW. If you chose to use another brand please use a reputable one like NGK or Bosch. Do not use plugs from Autolite or other lower priced brands. These plugs seem to cause misfires in the 1.8 engine. You do not need the special tool to get the coils out of the cylinder head. I use my fingers to pry up on the coils at the outer edges and have not had any problems getting the coils out of the engine by this method. There is a vacuum reservoir located on the valve cover which covers the number four coil. The reservoir assembly is held in place with a 10mm head nut and three 5mm allen head bolts.

If you have any further questions or need any clarification on the information given, please ask. Max

Customer: replied 9 years ago.
Reply to Max's Post: Max, once again thanks for your help. I will purchase, although it hurts, the superceeded coils from the dealer and I have purchased the premium NGK plugs (Laser Cut) from Napa.. so I hope this will do... at 12.99 a plug, they better be fine. Thanks for your help once again. If you have any tips on the spark plug wires, let me know.. I will probably go to autozone and get what they have, unless you object to that. By the way, I have my own VW/AUDI OEM parts (waterpump, o-ring, timing belt, cam tensioner, serpentine belt, and VW coolant) to replace my timing belt.. what is the book labor hours on this job?   Thanks,

Last question, I promise... I will accept after your answer.
No worries on the follow up questions, I believe that we get about 5 hours for the timing belt replacement. The AWP does not have any plug wires present. The main wiring harness connects directly to the ignition coils and all of the generation of the energy required to fire the plugs is performed within the ignition coil. I do know that the plugs are expensive (with the price of oil everything is going up, transportation costs and all) but they will work just fine. Max
Customer: replied 9 years ago.
I just finished intalling the NGK Laser Cut Platnium on Platnium plugs, and the total was arond $56.00 USD. The job took all of 10 minutes, so I was very impressed with the elimination of spark plug wires and distributor caps. Thanks for your help again... how long does it take to get the check engine light to reset? I changed the brakes, and I leared that I have to take it to the shop to get the dashboard brakelight off, so is this the same? I am going to accept your answer, but I have one last thing.. I know a exaust expert who mandrel bends pipes, has high flow cats, and wants to compelte a 3" turbo back system with a magnaflow muffler.. how do you think this will effect my HP or anything else?

The check engine light will reset after a number of drive cycles, though I do not remember the exact count (should be always reset the light with a scan tool at work). I believe that you asked about the brake pad warning light during a previous post, but I did not give an answer due to the clutch concern. The brake pad warning light in the instrument cluster should reset as soon as the news pads are installed. You should not need a scan tool to reset this light. The circuit is a simple open/closed loop that activates the waring when the brake rotor wears through the pad sensor. There is sometimes a problem with the wiring between the sensor and the instrument cluster, or, in very rare cases, a problem with the brake pad sensor. An easy way to find out where the problem lies is to use an old pad sensor, cut the wiring and twist the wiring together. This creates a test piece that can easily be connected to the wiring on the knuckle assembly. If the light goes out then the problem is in the new pad sensor, if not, then there is a problem with either the connector or the wiring.

If the "ABS" warning is lit then a scan tool is needed to reset the light. If you want to run a 3" turbo back exhaust system, I would recommend taking a look at what is available for upgrades to your ECM. You will be changing the back pressure in the exhaust system thus you may want to increase the amount of pressure that the turbo is able to provide. Anytime on item is changed there will be an effect on how the fuel injection system operates. Take the time to research some of the VW performance experts that are located online who offer upgrades for your engine system. Take a look at some of the complete packages so you can see what is offered along with a 3" turbo back upgrade. I can think of one GLI that has a 3" exhaust with a performance upgrade to the ECM that has a noticeable increase in HP. Max

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