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VolvoDoc, Independent Volvo shop owner
Category: Volvo
Satisfied Customers: 6568
Experience:  20 years of experience working with Volvo's. Independent European shop owner and technician.
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I have a 2011 Volvo c30 t5. car blew the radiator hose then

Customer Question

good morning. I have a 2011 Volvo c30 t5. car blew the radiator hose then overheated. still ran fine. got it home wont start. had 4 cam position sensor codes. changed the sensor.
JA: Have you checked the coolant? Have you checked for a leak in the cooling system?
Customer: car got hot. I changed hose, coolant, oil, cam position sensor. It had an immobilizer light. I thought I reset the immobilizer and now don't get the immobilizer message. car won't start but there is no check engine light
JA: Are you fixing your C30 yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: I am. I am an aircraft technician and have also worked on cars for 30 years. Again. no codes after obd II reset engine cranks but no start
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: no
Submitted: 8 months ago.
Category: Volvo
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

How many miles on the car, and what were the exact fault codes?

Also, can you please provide a VIN?

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
well I am at work and didn't think to keep the codes with me. I have them written down at home. the car has 90k miles. I will have to walk out to the car to get my vin.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
is there a process to install the cam position sensor besides just bolting the new one on? My research on line didn't show anything besides removing and replacing
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Ok, yeah it would be best if I had those, so that I'm not throwing you invalid info and suggestions. I'm alerted when you respond, so I won't leave you hanging.

Also, the cam sensor(s) rarely fail on these, so I'm suspecting it's something deeper, but the faults will give me a lot more to go on.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
btw, while trying to restart the car there is no codes present now. but it cranks. no start. originally when the battery got low I got an immobilizer indication. I charged the battery, reset the immobilizer condition ( I think) and changed the parts. I have no immobilizer message now.
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
When it threw the codes the engine had overheated. no water in the oil or oil in the coolant when I drained them
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Ok, roger that. Also curious of mileage.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
90 k miles. I will try to get the info in a min. is there any special instructions for the cam sensor?
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Negative. Just bolts in. There are 2. One for intake and one for exhaust.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Yeah. that's what I found too. I changed the exhaust sensor because it said bank 2 and exhaust on the codes. I have the codes now
1- PO369
2- PO368
3- PO367
4- PO128
5- P000BIt also had an immobilizer message that I suspect was because the battery got low with me trying to strat the car a bunch
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Ok, let's go through the descriptions first:

1) P0369: Exhaust CMP signal - faulty

2) P0368: Exhaust CMP signal - too high

3) P0367: Exhaust CMP signal - too low

4) P0128: Thermostat - faulty signal

5) P000B: Camshaft control exhaust - faulty

Ok, so these 2.5s have had some issues with variable valve timing, which could potentially require some special tools. So first things first. The combination of these timing faults, and the overheating start to make me think that this may be a catastrophic issue. The water pump is driven by the timing belt. If the belt fails, then the cylinder head is going to have to come off.

So here are the next steps

1) Does the engine sound "normal" while cranking?

2) Pull the upper belt cover to check for a slack belt

3) If both things check out, then I'd want to be sure that the cam timing is still good

4) Compression check

5) Check oil quantity and quality.

6) Remove the spark plug cover and inspect the Camshaft Reset Valve. Check resistance of the valve. Spec is 7 ohms. Inspect the o-rings on the Reset Valve.

7) Manually apply power and ground to the valve or activate while removed with a scan tool. Look for the valve to hang up when either applying or removing power and ground.

8) If all checks are good, replace the Exhaust Camshaft Gear (CVVT Hub). Replacement will require Cam Holding tool(###) ###-####/p>

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Sounds mechanically normal and the belt looks great and tight. I had those covers off to change the cam sensor
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Oil quantity was good nothing in it that I could see though It was dark. I changed it anyway because the engine got hot and I wanted to see if there was water in it
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Ok, great to hear on all.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
What is the cam reset valve? Where is it?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Wouldn't these problems throw more codes? no codes returned after I reset them
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Usually those faults won't return unless the engine is running for a short time. The reset valve is one of the two solenoid valves under the engine cover. Looks like this:

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
that makes sense. could that be damaged by excessive engine heat? is it controlled electronically or by oil pressure? would it prevent the engine from starting?great advice
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Possible that it could be damaged by heat. Intake and exhaust solenoids are different.

It's always got oil pressure going to it, but opens electronically to allow pressure to flow to the VVT sprocket.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
cool. The sprocket is solid but moved by the solenoid, right?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
if not working would it keep the car from starting or would it just run like crap?
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Well, sort of. The inner and outer parts of the sprocket move independently from each other depending on whether there's oil pressure to it or not. There's a slightly helical gear between the two if that makes sense. Pic of the back side of it:

On the second question, I've seen a 5 cylinder Volvo not start exactly 2x due to failing VVT components. So it's not that common, hence the work steps above, so you're not replacing stuff unnecessarily.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
that's great advice. I'll try this tonight and then let you know this evening. do you respond to messages in the evening?
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Depends on the evening. I do get instantly alerted whenever there's a reply here, but if I'm in the middle of a critical cooking point, it may have to wait a few :-) However, I will always reply.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
awesome. I'll check these tonight. Bon'appetit"
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.


Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Hello, my friend. I hope I am not interrupting your dinner. I removed the exhaust solenoid and applied 12 vdc to the pins. It seems to making some sort of internal movement when applying the power. so I am assuming that it is goodalso it was recommended to me to remove the battery power to the whole car for an extended period of time then reconnect and try to start again. I suppose this was an attempt to reboot the computer. Of course this didn't work either. But I DID notice that it seems to maybe try to fire up like every 3rd or fourth revolution but not catching (I think) I do smell gas. Also when I spray starting fluid in the intake it doesn't help. Not sure if this helps your troubleshooting
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Ok, so let's make sure the basics are covered:

1) Fuel pressure at the rail?

2) If so, are injectors spraying? Easy enough to know by checking plugs

3) If so, do you have spark?

4) If so, time for a compression test.

5) If it's marginal, you're likely dealing with a bad exhaust sprocket/variator

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Ok. I'll check that next. The exhaust sprocket is the variable one you talked about and showed me pictures of? Do those go bad in your experience? And that would keep the car from starting? or just run poorly...
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Yes, the variable one. I've replaced a couple. It's not crazy common, but it happens.

On the last, from yesterday morning: "On the second question, I've seen a 5 cylinder Volvo not start exactly 2x due to failing VVT components. So it's not that common, hence the work steps above, so you're not replacing stuff unnecessarily."

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
I will check these thing this weekend. Do you think that there is a chance that the wire harness got damaged or the computer under the hood that's near the air box?
Customer: replied 8 months ago.
What is that computer?
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

I doubt an overheating event would cause wiring damage, but the only way to know for sure is to check insulation for breaches. That ECU near the airbox is the engine control module

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
the ecm is almost exactly over where the hole in the radiator hose blew. I wonder if that could have hurt it?
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Possible, I suppose, but definitely something that would be impossible for me to diagnose without the car right in front of me, unfortunately.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
of course. but if all other avenues are exhausted (after the other things you recommend) I'm starting to reach a little bit
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Understood. I'd still doubt that the ECU itself is faulty.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Ok...i'll check with you later. Do you answer on weekends?
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

I try to whenever possible. In addition to cooking, I'm also doing a mild renovation on one of my apartments, so I'll be somewhat scarce, but again, I do get alerted to responses.

Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Just checking to see if there has been progress with this.

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Thanks for checking back. I WAS leaning towards the ECU. After reading the wiring harness and finding no faults, I pulled a spark plug and found water on it. Of course, the next step is to pull the head. Hopefully its just a gasket (or the head, for that matter) and not something horrendous like the block. I'm pulling the head today and can relay what I find this afternoon. You have been a great help. Honestly chasing the codes was a smart first try, but this makes sense now, unfortunately.
Expert:  VolvoDoc replied 8 months ago.

Truly a bummer. Good luck with the fix

Customer: replied 8 months ago.
Thanks. :-) I will probably be asking some questions along the way. First question: Is it required to use the valve cover removal tool to remove the valve cover or is there an alternative? I am ordering the tools but as it takes a few days to get here I was wondering if there is another way. I cant even get the head off yet because of the cover. I understand the need for the cam alignment tools but am surprised at the fit of the cover.