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I have a 56 Range Rover Sport I picked up a few months ago,

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Hi there I have a 56...
Hi there
I have a 56 Range Rover Sport I picked up a few months ago , I have a vibration hard to pinpoint where from , when I stop say at a roundabout and pull of a judder can sometimes be felt when the box changes into 2nd gone by the time it reaches 3rd , doesn’t do it all the time , any ideas please
Submitted: 3 months ago.Category: UK Car
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Answered in 52 minutes by:
12/31/2017
UK Auto Mechanic: Matt, Mechanical Engineer replied 3 months ago
Matt
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: UK Car
Satisfied Customers: 22,897
Experience: BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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Hello and welcome to Just Answer

if its always happening at the same road speed then there's a few options:

Tyre defect - any cracks or bulges on the side-wall of the tyre (inside and outside) these will throw the tyre out of shape and produce vibration - take a good look over the tyre sidewalls and bear in mind that anything that looks suspect when static will probably be ballooning out and far worse at speed so if any doubt then replace the tyre. Also check if the tyres have been fitted the right way round as some types are directional

One other thing to check for which isn't covered by a balance check is out of round or bent wheels, if you use a dial gauge on the axle to measure the run out on the wheel rim this will ensure that the wheels are round and true

Worn suspension joints - jack the car up so the wheel is off the ground (you’ll need to do this for all 4 corners) and shake the tyre from top to bottom and from side to side (with someone holding the steering wheel on the front) there should be no play in either direction. Any play in 1 direction will usually require a joint to be replaced, if there’s play in both directions then the wheel bearing may be at fault. If theres play only up and down its the strut top mount - to find this one you have to shake the suspension strut it self up and down with the wheel off the ground - so you may need to remove the wheel to check this one.
Now with the car jacked up on that side with the wheel about 2 inches off the ground use a steel bar under the wheel and lever the wheel up and down slightly, you should be able to look at the end of the axle and see if the suspension arm is moving up and down separately to the axle.If so replace the bush

To feel if there's a worn strut top bearing then lightly hold the spring by hand and have your assistant move the steering from left to right with the wheel on the ground - a worn bearing will feel 'notchy' through the spring. The wheel needs to be on the ground for the test to load up the bearing

Worn drive shaft joint - typically these won't produce any vibration unless badly damaged but they can be noisy or 'clonk' for a long time beforehand, turn the steering to full lock and look at the drive-shaft rubber boot there should be no rips or tears in it and the suspension should be clean and dry of any grease. If you reverse at a reasonable speed with the steering on full lock a worn joint will 'click'.

Worn mountings - check the tightness of the engine and gearbox mounts and their condition - this is best done by using a jack to take the weight of the engine off the mounts and seeing if any cracks or splits open up in the rubber.Also check the tightness of the mounts bolts

Broken or defective driveshaft vibration damper - some models feature a rubber mass about halfway along the driveshaft - this functions as a vibration damper so 'tuning out' vibration - the rubber needs to be not cracked and the damper firmly fixed to the shaft and running true - anything other than this and the entire shaft will have to be replaced as they are bonded in place

Propshaft : then I'd suspect that the propshaft either has a worn joint or the centre bearing is worn or its out of balance

you can easily check for for any slack in the propshaft joints by twisting either half by hand and feeling for any play as there should be virtually none

the centre bearing is quite loosely mounted so this can be moved normally but if you can run the car in gear with the wheels off the ground and then feel the centre bearing housing for vibration if there's any then consider replacing the unit

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
It’s not something that happens all the time , sometimes I can travel 15 miles and nothing then the judder and then maybe nothing again , mostly rural roads as I live in Suffolk , normal driving dual carriageway etc is fine , only happens at low speed , pulling away like at load
UK Auto Mechanic: Matt, Mechanical Engineer replied 3 months ago

Hello

Ok in that case its sounding more like an engine issue

This could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out and can also allow the engine to rev up when not desired causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.

Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.

The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propaneor brake cleaner around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open up as things expand with temperature so depending on how the leak occurs ( on a hose joint with a clamp expansion will help seal and on a vacuum hose expansion will make a leak worse) so leaks can be better or worse as the engine heats up.
1 vacuum leak path that you won't find with the above test is if the brake servo is leaking

so try clamping off servo hose to see if this has any effect

It’s also worth getting the fuel pressure checked as if this is low due to a blocked filter or faulty regulator or even a poorly pump will all result in insufficient fuel being delivered to the engine

Might also be worth checking the wiring and connector to the airflow meter for any signs of corrosion or damage. you can do a quick fault find if you unplug the meter and run the engine without it.

if the engine condition is the same then chances are the meter or the connection to it is faulty

It’s also worth cleaning the MAF sensor wires, as they can get coated with dirt over time which then offsets the reading
Use some contact cleaner or brake cleaner to spray onto the wires to remove the dirt – on no account touch the wires with anything as they are very fragile

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