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Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: UK Car
Satisfied Customers: 21707
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
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I'm having some issues with a Ford CMax 2011 1.6 diesel

Customer Question

I'm having some issues with a Ford CMax 2011 1.6 diesel Titanium, I don't know if they may be related or not.
1. Last week I did a 40 mile journey and in the last 2 miles it nearly impossible to get the car in gear, when it happened there were 3 tiny judders through the gear lever and then I had to rev match all the way home. Gears would not engage at all if the engine was off so you had to start with the car in gear, with no engine running the gear lever is easy to shift.
2. The following day the battery died completely recharged for a full day but dead the next day, on day two (after recharging) I couldn't even get the car started and was getting two warnings, parking assist and engine malfunction, have car serviced.
So bought a new battery, this is now holding a charge but I still can't get the car started and I have the engine malfunction warning still, (I have corrected the parking assist issue), I have tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for the minutes and I have fun the fault codes which come up as follows.
U0001 High Speed CAN communication bus
Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2 : No Data
Intake manifold absolute pressure (MAP) No Data
Engine RPM : No Data
Air Status : No data
Oxygen Sensors 1 present : No Data
O211 (Bank 1, Sensor1): No Data
O213 (Bank 1, Sensor3): No Data
O214 (Bank 1, Sensor4): No Data
O221 (Bank 2, Sensor1): No Data
It would be nice to at least know what sort of issues I'm looking at here, the car hasn't moved for a week and it's left me scratching my head right now.
Thanks, Colin
Submitted: 7 months ago.
Category: UK Car
Expert:  Matt replied 7 months ago.


the 1st issue sounds very much like the clutch has failed on its springs or the slave cylinder has failed

so I'd 1st try bleeding the clutch

I favour having a clear hose from the nipple to a jar 1/2 full of old fluid and with the nipple closed your assistant pushes the pedal up and down a few times, then holds it down whilst you then crack open the nipple and close it again whilst fluid is still flowing.
if this doesn't help then the gearbox will have to come off to replace parts

as to no start then I'd say to check the fuses for the ECU and all of the high power ( 25A+) fuses, check for cracked fuses and corroded connections

also check that the engine earth connections are bright and tight

ideally use a voltmeter to measure for 12V on the ECU fuse with the ignition on

Expert:  Matt replied 7 months ago.


do you still need help?

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Customer: replied 6 months ago.
Hi Sorry,I have been a bit under the weather and didn't get a chance to run all the electrical tests until today, I have checked all the fuses in all three locations using the speaker setting on a multimeter, that includes the high amp square fuses under the bonnet, all were OK.I have also pulled all the resistors and test them to make sure the switches open and the coil is not burnt out.The new battery has been removed, recharged and re fitted, all connections were cleaned to give a good connection.The car still shows engine malfunctions service required, it is also showing the parking sensor is malfunctioning. When the ignition button is pressed there is still no response from the car, nothing at all happens.No point in doing the clutch belted until I have the engine running but I have no idea where the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve is anyway.Regards, Colin
Expert:  Matt replied 6 months ago.

Hello Colin

do you have 12V present on the ECU fuse with the ignition on? if you do then

Also if its not injecting at all then check the connections to the crankshaft sensor, unplug it and check for corroded contacts and broken wiring, and consider fitting a new sensor - do the same for the cam position sensor

If the EGR valve is stuck open then this too can effect starting so try disconnecting it to see if this helps or changes anything

Could also be an injector leaking fuel back through the overspill pipe, so not getting enough fuel pressure to tell ECU to fire the injectors, this is trickier to find and you’ll need the garage to do a ‘run back’ test to identify which one is the issue

Customer: replied 6 months ago.
I understand that all the sensors can have an effect but it seems strange that they could fail at the point of changing the battery, until that point it was starting and running fine, apart from the gear changes that happened about 2 miles from home.
Expert:  Matt replied 6 months ago.


I agree about the point where all the sensors are not likely to have failed simultaneously

so its likely that the ECU has lost power

using the meter there should be 12V on the ECU fuse if there's not then check that the new battery is firmly connected and that you have power up to the ignition switch