How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site. Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Matt Your Own Question
Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: UK Car
Satisfied Customers: 21872
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, in auto industry 22 years
Type Your UK Car Question Here...
Matt is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

Ford Galaxy: I have a 2007 Galaxy 2.0 TDCI, car drives fine

This answer was rated:

I have a 2007 Galaxy 2.0 TDCI, car drives fine but occasionally when between 40-50mph and in 5th Gear car goes into Limp mode and engine malfunction comes on dashboard, if you swicth of the engine and back on it clears, this has only happened in first 10 mins of a journey, car has 101k on it. The fault code that comes up is P2263 Boost Pressure Performance, now this covers a variety of issues and has not happened at any other time or speed. I have also had the battery light come on upon start up occasionally and when you swicth of and start up again this goes out, any advice as i dont want to be ripped off with new turbo?
Hello John

I'd suggest checking a few basics 1st

I'd first check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.

If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly


Also have a feel around with your bare hands with the engine running to see if you can feel any escaping gas under your touch. Another method is to use a soap and water solution sprayed onto any suspect areas - if there's a leak it'll bubble up with the engine running

If this is OK then remove the high pressure intake hose after the turbo and have a feel of the turbine wheel - there should be no play radially at all - but a little bit of axial / end to end float is normal

If this is OK then check for air leaks after the mass airflow meter - The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.

Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattened piece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Would you say its the Boost Pressure sensor or more likely to be a split pipe, also where is the turbo located as I cant see it from the front, I can see the EGR valve so would i have to get at some of the pipes from underneath removing belly first?




If there's a lack of performance then its most likely a burst / split pipe or other leak

if the car seems to accelerate fine then then suddenly 'clip' or hit a wall then this points to an excess of boost and you're hitting the boost limiter and the reasons for this are usually a boost pipe has fallen off or a faulty boost pressure sensor, or a faulty boost control solenoid or a sticking wastegate

the turbo is under the exhaust manifold at the front of the engine and yes its easiest to access it from underneath by removing the plastic engine undertray
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

When I accelerate hard everything is ok, the fault has only occured when I have hardly any accelerator on and virtually coasting, last night on the drive I revved the engine hard and then all of a sudden it would rev no more, any ideas on this one or part of the same fault?


Ok in that case check over the connections to the wastegate solenoid at the back of the engine bay and if there's any check engine light on then it would be worthwhile getting it plugged into a diagnostic machine to pull off a fault code
Matt and other UK Car Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Thanks for the help, the garage I took it to said the wast gate was sticking, can this be changed seperately or is it part of the complete turbo, another thing they picked up on was battery voltage low, the car always starts first time but i have had the battery light come on a coulpe of times, I am getting a new battery but could low battery voltage cause the issue of limp mode if the signal is incorrect? Also on the top towards the front of the engine there is a flap valve with 2 sensors on, what is this valve?




Yes a wastegate actuator can be replaced separately - if its the actuator that the problem

however if the actual wastegate is sticking then the entire turbo has to be replaced I'm afraid

and yes low battery volts can give all sorts of weird issues so thats important to sort out as well

as for the 'flap valve' you're referring is it this:

as thats the throttle body
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

what does this flap valve do as there are a couple of sensors on it, i think th emain problem is the EGR valve so will remove and clean this week, what are your thoughts on blanking plate or restricting plate for EGR valve, car has done 101K, I have no Engine Management lights come on when fault occurs and everyone recommends cleaning the EGE Valve out and blanking off but this will result in fault within the engine system, how easy it is to get someone to reprogram software to ignore EGR valve? Also where is the boost pressure sensor located, i am an engineer and carry out my own services so am willing to try anything.



the throttle is used to help generate vacuum when required and control driveablity so its not critical to how the engine runs but I suspect the engine would idle badly and be nasty to drive without it

If the EGR valve is blanked off or restricted then you may not get a fault code and usually removing the EGR flow makes a car drive a lot better with superior fuel economy

So I'd say go for a restrictor plate after cleaning out the valve to ensure that it can move freely

the MAP ( manifold absolute pressure ) sensor is bolted onto the inlet manifold and should look like this