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BMW: Touring..Y plate, about 80,000 miles..cutting..local garage…

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I have a 5 series...
I have a 5 series 2.5 BMW Touring auto, Y plate, about 80,000 miles. The engine has developed a habit of cutting out without warning, usually after making a short journey, then re-starting the engine before it is at full temperature, but once I have started moving again, sometimes after a few yards (eg once when I was entering a busy main road from a forecourt), sometimes after a longer distance, but in all cases after commencing a the second journey and coming to a halt. My local garage has been unable to identify the fault, as it cannot be reproduced on demand. Can you help, please? Thanks Ian
Submitted: 12 years ago.Category: UK Car
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Answered in 10 minutes by:
6/16/2010
UK Auto Mechanic: Mike, UK Car Mechanic replied 12 years ago
Mike
Mike, UK Car Mechanic
Category: UK Car
Satisfied Customers: 39,198
Experience: Hi, I am a Car/ vehicle technician of 34 years. 29of -running my own repair/diagnostic business.
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Hello and Welcome to justanswer...

Can you please tell me the cars' mileage ...

Too - what is its service / recent repair history?

Also - what exactly has been done in a bid to find the problem ...??

Rgds, MIKE...................................

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Customer reply replied 12 years ago

Mike,

 

1) Mileage just over 79,000

 

2) Serviced just before I bought the car in Feb this year (76,000 miles), I had it checked over again immediately after purchase, still showing a full set of green sevice lights. No mechanical repairs recently, as far as I know.

 

3) My local garage has looked into the problem, but not been able to identify anything wrong, because the fault cannot be reproduced on demand. As I am not a mechanic, I can't tell you what tests the garage have done, but I have used them for many years & they are good - this is the third BMW auto touring they have looked after for me. As an example of what happens, yesterday afternoon I drove for about 2 miles from cold, then stopped for no longer than 10 minutes, the engine started readily, then cut out 200 yards later when I stopped at a junction. It took a few minutes before I could get going again, every time the engine started, it cut out once I took my foot off the throttle to depress the brake pedal for changing from park to drive & I had to resort to increasing the revs & left foot braking, to make sure that I could keep the engine going. I went straight to the garage (about 2 miles), the engine started first time & ran perfectly.

 

Ian

 

UK Auto Mechanic: Mike, UK Car Mechanic replied 12 years ago
Hello again Ian - thank you for your reply..

Ok... given the faults as you describe then ..at first I would have said straightaway that this was a CAS fault - crank sensor...and , it still might be...

But as I read on, the faults do come over as ECT sensor issues / faults...

Ect sensor problem... This is the engine coolant sensor - not the one the controls the gauge - but the one that sends signals to the cars Ecu.. main computer - re. the temperature of the engine.

 

 

The Ecu then sends commands to the fueling and ignition systems according. If the sensor is faulty and thus sends incorrect , or no info to the ecu as above, the fuel and air mixture will be incorrect and thus do as you describe resulting in poor running and no start situations and / or the symptoms you describe..

 

 

If you remember the old auto and manual choke systems...it works like that , only electronically. If and when the choke was in the wrong position for the temp of the engine, the engine either wouldn't start or coughed and spluttered... exactly the same.

 

 

So, without the aid of plug in diagnostics at the moment and the results thereof - its well worth renewing that sensor. Its usually located on the inlet thermostat housing , inlet manifold or thereabouts depending on model and has a two wires pin connector going to it.

 

 

Always buy one from a dealer / genuine unit. If you are unsure as to its position - ask the parts dept; when you are in there, to show you on the screen where it is located .... The sensor is cheap enough and well worth doing as I say - because it does have the "edge" I feel on the CAS in this situation...

 

The trouble with both these sensors is that they can often not show on the diagnostic FCR - fault code tests....

 

Live data testing would need to be done if deeper diagnostics were to be needed - but given the situation as you describe it, I would definitely say do the Ect sensor first and then - IF that doesn't cure it, the CAS is the next most likely to be at fault for sure..

 

I dont advocate just changing parts but these are very high on the "suspect" list on your model with all that you have told me..so thats what I would recommend...

 

Just one other thing though - I note you said you had had a service on it - Just ensure the fuel filter was renewed at the time...they often get missed - and a clogging will filter will give such troubles too ! So its worth just checking for that first and then progress if needed as above..


I Sincerely XXXXX XXXXX have helped you - Please ask me if you need more help...


Kind Rgds, MIKE

 

  • >>>>>>>>>Please don't forget ....Please press the ACCEPT button if you are happy with my answer/advice given -as that's how I get paid for my time ... Thank you...

 

Feedback and any Bonuses are always appreciated too. Thank you.

Mike
Mike, UK Car Mechanic
Category: UK Car
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Experience: Hi, I am a Car/ vehicle technician of 34 years. 29of -running my own repair/diagnostic business.
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