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bluextc89, Technician
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I have a hd-61z786 tv. Everything has been operating correctly

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I have a hd-61z786 tv. Everything has been operating correctly until about 15 min. ago when the screen went blank and the power and lamp leds started blinking simulataneously. no one has been behind the set to alter anything for over a year and I there is nothing in the environment behind the set that would change anything externally. What could be the issue?
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All that said, please reply with the following information:

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2. If any service(s) have been done to the TV recently..

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NOTE: Researching answers, complexity of the problem, and customer Volume (real and virtual) can all extend your answer time. The questions asked above are very important for me to have a better understanding of what you are seeing... and potential problems with your TV. Please allow some time to review service and reference materials and to type out a reply once you have submitted answers to all of the information requested above
I haven't gotten a response from you - so I will go ahead and try to clear this up for you.

When the Power and Lamp/Program LEDs flash simultaneously (not alternately) there are one ore more of the folowing problems:

1. A failed lamp housing presence switch. This is a switch near the lamp door that is a safety so it cannot be powered on if the door is off. This door can be warped by heat - so it no longer is activated - or the switch can fail.

2. The lamp or lamp ballast has failed - if the lamp has never been replaced on the TV - it's time for a new one. They typically only last 2000-3500 watching hours. If the lamp was resently replaced with a knockoff cheap manufacturer - it may have also failed prematurely. The new lamp should be from a well established manufacturer like Philips. It should be in the $100-$130 range. If you paid less - it is not a quality lamp.

CLICK HERE to see a replacement lamp.

If you have replaced the lamp with a new and good branded one - the last culprit is the ballast. This provides the high voltage necessary for the lamp to fire. I suggest having a professional swap this out. it will run in the $125 range to install a new one.

If you have additional - Just Ask.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Ok...This Is Weird. A Storm Just Came In And Knocked Out Electricity Et Al. Hard To Do Any Testing. Don.T Thinl Its The Switch Because There.S A Media Room Behond The Set That Staus Pretty Cool. I Huess It Could Be The Lamp Bit It Seems Weird There Was No Evidence Preceding Failure.

There is typically no warning - they just fail to fire.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

As it turns out, neither of the two possible solutions you suggested seem to apply. Following my electrical downtime, I fired up my system and everything was working fine again. However, after about 15-20min of play, the system does what it did screen and both leds flashing simultaneously. The temp in the back of the set is about 75 degrees. do you have another possible solution?

Are you certain the LEDs are not alternating their flashing?

That would indicate a problem with a cooling fan or temp sensor.

Here is the reference:


Remove the lamp access door and locate the presence switch.

It should be just inside the door, and activete it a few times with your finger.

Best test would be to hold the switch down with tape.... and see if anything changes.

Next we can go into the self check if you have the original remote? to see if it is throwing out any errors.

Tell you what - here is the exact copy from the service manual - highlighting the issues I brought up before.

There's really not a need to go into the error history.

There are only 3 conditions that will cause the simultaneous blinks as I have stated before.

1 - bad lamp. even if it plays for a few minutes - it may be weak. These lamps are charged with mercury vapor - and when the high voltage from the ballast fires it - it may not have enough to sustain the picture for long.

2 - bad ballast - there is a charge capacitor that, if weak, will not sustain the high voltage for the lamp to stay lit - or there may be a cold solder joint that will expand and not make contact after it heats.

3 - lamp door cover not being recognized as closed. This could be a bad switch...or warpage of the door.

See the chart below.


Step 1 is to verify proper operation (or bypass the) door switch.

Then, if the same replace the lamp (no way to test without a high voltage power supply.

Then finally, the ballast is replaced (no way to test without a high voltage multimeter.

I always suggest changing the ballast if it has been 5 years of service - or the 2nd lamp - as they do weaken over time.

As always - if you have additional - Just Ask.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I can't display your graphic. My computer indicates no file. Anyway, i've taken off the access panel to the lamp and do not find anything that resembles a switch except for a hole in the front right that has a small 'band' that extends across the interior of the hole.The way the front panel is set up, there's a plastic 'rod; that inserts in the hole where the 'band' exists and would push it back . If that is the presense switch, I think it would always be activated by that rod. As a test, i used a screwdriver to replace the rod and started up the tv. It worked. So thien I drove a small screw into the 'rod' to extend its length into the hole. Then started it up...and that worked. Seems as though the real problem was in the switch, but it was that the switch had a marginal position for activation.

Ok - so it stayed on, and has not shut off?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.


Sounds good - please rate our session to remove it from the work queue.

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