How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Aric Your Own Question
Aric, Technician
Category: TV
Satisfied Customers: 44700
Experience:  15+ years in the field. Owner of AV Installation, OEM and Repair company
Type Your TV Question Here...
Aric is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

I have an older Samsung LN-T4053H that was having problems

This answer was rated:

I have an older Samsung LN-T4053H that was having problems turning on - it would click on and off without giving picture or sound for minutes, then hours, before turning on. My research told me this was a known capacitor problem with my set so I replaced the blown capacitors with some stronger ones. This seemed to fix the problem.

Now I have a NEW problem. I turn the TV on, I just hear one click, screen comes on for 1 second, makes a small buzzing noise, and screen goes blank. The power stays on until I turn it off but the screen stays black.

I'm really no expert so I don't even know if this problem could be caused by my novice repairs, an incorrect replacement part, another faulty part, or a newly broken part. I am hoping it is a problem I can fix on my own with a replacement part that won't cost more than a new TV.

I need to know what the problem is, what I need to fix it, how to fix it, and the cost of fixing it. Thanks!
Hello, My name is XXXXX XXXXX I will be glad to assist you. Please keep in mind that there may be a few minutes between replies, as I research your problem.

How long have you had the set for, and when did the problem occur?

Also, how long after you replaced the two faulty caps did the new problem occur?

Also, do you get any blinking of the power light on the TV?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No problem, I've got a few hours before I have to be anywhere.


It is very old. I got this from my room mate about six months ago and she got it third hand I believe. I took it off her hands in exchange for fixing the capacitor issue.


I replaced the capacitors about two months ago and immediately upon testing to see if the original issue was fixed the second problem presented itself.


The red light on the power button will go from being solid to blinking when I press it, the front blue light will come on, the red light will blink until the screen turns on and then off immediately while buzzing, then the red light will stop blinking and stay off while the front blue light stays on.

Thank you for the reply.

Are you certain that you installed the capacitors in the correct polarity?

Also, can you tell me more about the blinking red light on this set, does it blink continuously, or in a pattern (such as 5 blinks, pause, 5 blinks, pause, etc.)?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

I made sure when changing the caps that their polarity was correct but I could very well have made a mistake. I didn't want to meddle in the guts of the set more than I needed to and I wasn't sure I was proficient enough to diagnose the problem without possibly doing more damage. Does this seem like a likely cause of the issue?


The red light turns on then off at regular intervals for a total of four times before staying off.

I cannot tell if this is what caused the problem yet as we don't have enough information to diagnose.

We are getting there though.

So, the blink code on this TV is 4 blinks, pause, 4 blinks pause, etc., is that correct?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Oh, sorry, no. It blinks four times total. On, off, on, off, on, off, on, off and stays off.

Okay I understand. Honestly at this stage there are several things that could be causing the problem with the TV. The Mainboard, the Power Supply, the Inverters, or the T-Con. To further isolate it, you would need a multi meter and the ability to measure live voltages from the supply to see where the short is occuring. Unfortunately the 4 blinks total isn't an error code, and we would need to dig deeper. I can tell you that the relay clicking points mostly towards a bad power supply first, and then secondly the Mainboard. If you're looking for the most likely suspect, I would point towards the power supply board.
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Okay, thanks. So something is definitely shorting out, then?


Any idea if this could have been caused by errors made when changing capacitors? Or another way of asking, if this problem existed would it have been unobservable due to the broken caps presenting instead?


Also, what do you mean by relay clicking?

Anytime the TV will not turn on, something is shorting out internally.

I cannot tell if this was due to erros made when repairing, or if there are other capacitors that are faulty, and also need to be replaced from afar.

The relay clicking I was referring to was the original problem you had when you stated: "it would click on and off without giving picture or sound for minutes, then hours, before turning on."

Now, assuming that you installed these two capacitors correctly, then it would sound like the symptoms have lessened slightly perhaps, a nd that there is another faulty capacitor. Yoiu cannot always tell just by looking at them if they are bad or not, because they can also appear visually perfect, and still be shorted internally.

Do you need further assistance with this problem?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.



I'm not sure I described my problems properly. The second problem appears very different from the first one. With the first problem the screen would never turn on, there would never be any picture or sound. It would just cycle repeatedly and make a clicking sound as if someone was turning it on and then off very fast before the screen could warm up. This was a known issue with this type of TV and matched may descriptions of blown Samsung capacitors. The ones I replaced were obviously bulging, but as I did not replace them all that could still be the problem.


With this second problem, however, the screen DOES turn on when you press the power button. However you only see activity on the screen for a second, accompanied by some buzzing, before it stays off and the red light stops blinking. Because there is actually activity on the screen I would think the original problem was fixed, but there is no something else not working properly.


So your comment that "the symptoms have lessened slightly perhaps" doesn't sound right to me as it appears to be a very different symptom. I am very confident that the original problem, along with the relay clicking, was not a power supply issue but a capacitor issue. And since this new problem presents quite differently I feel like it's not caused by the same problem of sub-par caps.


I'm sorry if I am making incorrect assumptions, I'm certainly not the expert here.

Okay, maybe I'm not explaining this as best I can. I'm very familiar with your TV and it's symptoms.

When the set is stuck in a continuous state of clicking, this means the power supply is stuck trying to bootup and is being prevented due to a short.

When you replaced the caps, the power supply now gets FURTHER into a boot, and the screen actually turns on (keep in mind your power supply has no less than 4 different supplies in one board- 3.3, 5, 12 and 24 volt outputs each drive a different circuit).

So, once the 12 volts output from the supply is active and the screen lights up, there still could be a short on the supply that shuts it back down (likely what the buzz sound is).

Or, once the screen lights up the 24 volt output to the Inverters senses a short and shuts down.

The fault can still be on the power supply board, but can also be coming from a shorted Inverter or T-Con board.

If you want to isolate it further you will NEED to have a meter to check for the 12 and 24 volt outputs from the supply when the TV shuts down. With one of these shorted, you then remove the load from the output of the supply and see if the supply itself stays running with the load removed. If so then you found the cause of the shutdown.

Without a meter we are guessing at best.

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

Awesome, thank you for laying it out for me! I see what you are saying now.

You're welcome David, and if you need further assistance let me know.

If you're satisfied with my service please do not forget to rate the answer accordingly.

Aric and 3 other TV Specialists are ready to help you