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Dan, Master Tech and Repair Facility Trainer
Category: TV
Satisfied Customers: 7180
Experience:  USAF trained; A.A.S Electronics; A.A.S. Education; Currently teaching advanced troubleshooting and repair for the DoD.
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Dan, I have the same problem with a Samsung hlt6187sx/xaa TV

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Dan, I have the same problem with a Samsung hlt6187sx/xaa TV that you started to answer on 10/28; sound, no video. I've taken out the LEDs and checked them all and they function, to make sure the usual problem with Samsung LED DLPs of burned out red LED wasn't causing the problem. What next?
Thanks for the question. My name is Dan.

Do you know where the LED driver board is?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I assume that is the board that the LEDs are plugged into?
It looks like the first picture, below. On that board, find SW9001 (second picture). Put that switch in internal mode, then reconnect everything and turn the TV on. Any illumination?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I just had that board out yesterday, so I recognise it well. I'll do what you recommend and get back with you in a bit. What does changing the modes do?
The DMD controls the driver. If the DMD malfunctions, the driver can seem like it's malfunctioning as well. Setting the driver to internal mode allows the driver to operate regardless of the DMD signal. So if the driver operates under it's own control (internal mode) we replace the DMD. If the driver doesn't operate in internal mode, we replace the driver.

Let me know if you need anything else!

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK, I've flipped the switches, am now putting it back together. We shall see....
Customer: replied 5 years ago.

Hey, there's a picture now! The colors are all goofed up, but at least I can see video for the first time in months. So, this tells us the DMD is bad? Which board is that? What is the part number and which site do you recommend ordering it from?
Please read this whole post, and keep replying to me until you're satisfied. Once you're satisfied, you can click "Accept" (that part is important... it's how I get paid). You'll also be afforded the opportunity to leave me positive feedback and a tip. While not required, both would certainly be appreciated!

Part number is XXXXX You can get a new one from for about $250 usually, if they have them in stock.

The DMD board is near the projection lens... it's in a metal case, with lots of small holes in it. There's also a fan and a heatsink on it (the heatsink is on the chip). If you plan to do it yourself, definitely consider downloading a copy of the service manual (

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I checked and they have the part. Ouch, expensive, but cheaper than a new 60" TV that's for sure.

Regarding swapping the DMD board, it certainly looks like the most difficult part on the whole set to change. I see some spring-loaded fasteners on the back. Are there adjustments afterwards that are difficult to make? Is this something that is realistically feasible with the service manual in hand? I'm used to working on car engines, laptops, and desktops, but haven't had to dive into TV innards yet.
Yes, it's the most difficult board to change... but it's definitely doable with mechanical inclination. The service manual is definitely helpful... step by step, with pictures. Shouldn't be any adjustments afterward if done properly, but they're available if needed.

Dan and 5 other TV Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK, thanks for the guidance. I've gone ahead and ordered the part. If I have a question while I'm changing the DMD board, do I have to go through the questioning process again?
You're welcome! And no, you don't have to go through the process again... just come back to and log in, then click "my questions" at the top. You can click "Accept" now or later, doesn't matter.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Hi Dan, the board I ordered based on the part number you provided arrived, but what arrived wasn't the one I was expecting. What arrived was the board on the far right side (looking at the TV from behind), not the one with the holes in the case that also has a heat sink on it. The package it arrived in has the number you gave me, BP94-02307A, but the board itself has the part number BP96-01726A. Did they send me the wrong part?? I'm sending a photo of what arrived.
BP96-01726A is the sub power supply... not even close to what you ordered. They sent you the wrong board. Your board (BP94-02307A) looks like this:
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Thanks. I just called and bent their ear. They're sending again, hopefully the right part this time.

BTW, from your photo it looks like I'll be swapping a chip from the old DMD board to the new one. To be ready for the new board, will I need to get some Artic Silver, or can I swap with the heat sink attached?
A new chip should come with the board. If not, no problem... swapping is fine. The Arctic Silver is fine, as well.

Did you get the service manual?

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
I received the replacement board, the correct part this time, and have the service manual. I'm beginning open heart surgery. Wish me luck!
GOOD LUCK! Let me know if you need anything.
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK, I've got the board out. There is a big chip on the back (is that the TI DLP chip?) that isn't on the new board, so I have to swap it over. There is nothing in the manual on how to do it. Any tricks to it?
lol... carefully

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Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK, got the new DMD board in (took a 2 hour break for Biggest Loser), now have to flip the microswitches back on the LED driver board, and give it a go! Swapping the chip went smoothly (I think!).
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
No dice. :-(

TV is the same as before. The screen briefly flickers at start up, the right-most green LED flashes about 20 times, then it turns off, back on, flashes for ~20 times again, does it once more, then shuts off. Turning it on again repeats the cycle.

So, what do I do with the $250 board I just bought? What do I do with the TV?

Ok turn the TV on (well, turn it to standby) and use the TV's own remote to press the following buttons in quick succession: MUTE, 1, 8, 2, POWER.

Does that bring up service mode on the screen?

If so, run DDP3021, Test Pattern, Then press the right arrow key to scroll through the test patterns. Anything really abnormal?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
No, no service menu. A LED blinks as I push MUTE, 1, 8, 2, but then on POWER the TV begins the cycle of rebooting described above. I tried it several times, with the same response.
Interesting. I will opt out to see if someone else has an idea. Sit tight.

Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Hi Dan, I'm online and ready to try the next diagnostic steps on the TV. What do you recommend next?
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
On the LED driver board, there is blinking from the diagnostic LEDs. There is red + blue, red + blue repeating. Reading in the diagnostic manual, 1-1-3, 2 blinking times is next to the line that says "open status or fuse open". Does this mean that some fuse is open on the LED driver board??
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
OK, the last of the Thanksgiving guests have gone, and I'm now ready to get back into the TV again. I put the LED driver board back into internal mode via the microswitches, so now I have video, albeit with a strange green cast. I can enter the service menu, which I couldn't before switching to internal mode. To recap, I replaced the DMD board and the new board is now installed and running, but the TV still doesn't work, unless and until I switch the LED driver board into internal mode. Help!
Customer: replied 5 years ago.
Dan, I ended up corresponding with another Expert, who advised me to change the main board. Having worn out my welcome at buying and returning DMD boards, I decided to try to locate a scrap Samsung TV that I could use as a donor, and found a 56" inch unit with missing light engine that I stripped the main board + power supply from, and also the LED sub power supply board. It's a good thing I went that route, because it turned out that the second Expert was also wrong, when the main board swap didn't fix the problem. The only thing I had left to swap was the LED sub power supply board BP96-01726A, and that solved the problem!