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Wolfgang, Master Auto Tech
Category: Transmissions
Satisfied Customers: 4670
Experience:  Master, L1, L2, ASE 15yrs and running.
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I would like to exchange fluid in a ZF 6HP19Z transmission

Customer Question

I would like to exchange fluid in a ZF 6HP19Z transmission by disconnecting one of the lines connecting it to the cooler and drain the fluid form one end of the connection ( probably the line) and supplying new fluid to the other (probably the transmission). To do this I would like to get ready appropriate hoses and fittings, so that I can hoop them up easily. I need to know how this connection is constructed and how easy it is to disconnect it.
Submitted: 10 months ago.
Category: Transmissions
Expert:  Wolfgang replied 10 months ago.

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Below is my first answer or request for more information. If you do not understand it, or you need more information from me, or need me to go in more detail.

This method will not work. Because the other side of the line is not suction so getting the fluid back in will not work. the only way is this procedure below

History: ZF developed a 6 speed code named 6HP19, with 6HP19Z designation for the BMW unit. These units came with BMW "lifetime fill" ATF, which is listed in the BMW Operating Fluids Manual, Groupe 24, as Shell M-1375.4, only available at the dealer. I priced this fluid at the dealer at $16 for ? liter. I instead opted to do some research and found two alternatives for this fluid, Pentosin ATF1 and ZF-Lifeguardfluid6 AT fluid. ZF and Pentosin fluid can be found at dealers. People have found other alternatives with labels stating that their ATF is compatible with Shell but I decided to play it safe. Unfortunately, ZF decided to make the pan and filter as an integrated unit made out of plastic. So, you must change the pan and filter as 1 piece.

Note: You will not be able to completely drain all the fluid out, instead some fluid will remain in the torque converter. Factory fluid capacity is 9 liters. One drain gets 5.5 liters out, so you get you close to 60% new fluid on one drain and refill. Subsequent drain and fill will get you close to 90%.
Parts Required: ZF transmission filter kit, Transmission fluid of your choice.

Tools Required: Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 16mm, Torx T-40, 8mm L-shaped hex, Torx E10, 10mm hex head, 13mm ratcheting wrench, 3/8 Ratchet, Phillips screw driver, floor jack, 4 jack stands, ramps, oil catch can, fluid pump(available at any auto store).

WARNING: ZF has strict temperature requirements for fill. As per ZF, when adding new fluid while the engine is running, the temperature of fluid should be at 40 deg C. Oil temperature MUST NOT exceed 50 deg C. If the temperature gets past 50 deg C, you must allow transmission fluid to cool down before you start the fill procedure again.

1. Put the car up on stands on all four corners. I found the best way to do this was by 1st driving the car on ramps, then lifting the rear of the car by the differential. Always place a piece of wood between the jack and differential to protect it from damage. Once the car is up in the back, place jacks on the jack mounting points on the sides of rocker panels

2. Remove front under body cover using Phillips screw driver. Pan is held together by 8 phillips screws.
3. Remove rear under body cover using 8mm, 10mm sockets and Phillips screwdriver. This is a big piece, so proceed with care.
4. Lift the front of the car using cross member and install jacks on the front jack mounting points on sides of rocker panels. Make sure the car is level. Front jack mounting points are 1.5 inches lower than rears, so compensate your jack stands accordingly. Make sure car is steady on stands.
5. Loosen fill plug using 8mm L shaped tool. It?s a tight fit with the shifter linkage in the way. It?s an extremely import step because you want to make sure you will be able to fill new fluid before you go draining old fluid.
6. Remove rear transmission mount/vibration damper by undoing 16mm bolts.
7. Remove exhaust hanger by holding E10 Torx bolt undoing the 13mm nuts. There are 3 E10 bolts plus a 4th E10 bolt between the two hangers. Once you have removed the hanger, you will have complete access to all the T-40 Torx bolts holding the transmission oil pan

8. Place oil catch can under the transmission pan. Open the drain plug using a 10mm hex socket, transmission oil will gush out so make sure you are ready to catch it all. I always like to measure the amount of oil that comes out, so that I know how much I need to put in. It is important to avoid spills so you can get accurate measurements on how much oil was drained.
9. Once the oil stops draining, remove all T-40 Torx Bolts. Be careful to angle the pan towards the catch can because some fluid is still left in the pan. Remove pan and drain the remaining fluid in the catch can.
10. Drain all the fluid out of the catch can into empty container to measure.

11. Clean pan mating surface and install the new pan. Use a start patterns to torque bolts evenly. Torque specs: 6 lb/ft.

12. Undo filler orifice plug with engine stopped, top up transmission fluid until it emerges from filling orifice (approx 3.5 liters). Install filler cap but do not tighten it yet. Start engine, put on AC to load engine. Select gears with engine running at idle, Select positions R and D and shift through as far as 3rd gear (Steptronic program), keep each gear selected for 3 seconds and then engage the parking lock. Undo filling orifice plug and pump in fluid until it starts to overflow from the orifice. Install plug and torque to 25lb/ft. You should get the full 5.5 liters in using this process. I waited 5 total minutes from when I started the car to let the oil reach proper filling temperatures.
ZF has strict temperature requirements for fill. As per ZF, when adding new fluid while the engine is running, the temperature of fluid should be at 40 deg C. Oil temperature MUST NOT exceed 50 deg C. If the temperature gets past 50 deg C, you must allow transmission fluid to cool down before you start the fill procedure again.
13. Install hanger back on, install transmission mount/vibration damper, rear belly pan, front belly pan. Lower the car back on the ground.
14. Go for a test drive. Car should not hesitate after abrupt slowdowns or after going through fast turns. If the car tests fine, you are done!
15. Congrats. You just added a bit of life to your 6 speed transmission.

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Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Sorry, but this does not answer my question. Most of your reply is a copy of a fluid change procedure published on a BMW forum. I read it, and I knew about it, and I asked for a better method, which will alow me to flush the fluid from the torque converter. The copied procedure does not satisfy this requirement. I know it is possible to use the method I want to use, because there is a procedure published on an Audi thread which uses the method I want to use. Since Audi uses the same transmission, the suction should not bear problem.So I repeat my detailed question: I want to know what is the nature/type/standard fitting/connection/thread dimension (and and any seals, o-rings etc. used in it, so that I can buy them beforehand) of the connection between the cooler line and the transmission.
Expert:  Wolfgang replied 10 months ago.

Fyi I'm a Master certified vw/ audi/ bentley/ bmw tech for 20 yrs!!

you will have to find a BG machine where you place 16 liters of fluid in the machine and then use the machine where the old fluid goes into a bladder set up one side old fluid and the other side new fluid. the cooler lines are circulatory not on a suction and feed set up where you think it is set up that way .

Note also depending on the mileage and if the trans was ever serviced may introduce a slipping issue . Why? by flushing the old fluid totally out you may take some of the "debris" circulating through the transmission and then cause a slippage issue!!!

so that is why having some of the fluid left over in the converter mixture to new fluid will extend the life of the trans.

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
You still have not answered my original question, so I repeat it here for the third time:what is the exact nature of the connections between the the cooler lines and the transmission? I need to know that.I may elect to use a BG or a T-Tech machine, but I may improvise something myself ( use a manual pump if need be). To do so, I need to know the specifications of the connections so that I can prepare a set of tools ( proper size of hose with right inner and outer diameters, so that I can put one in the transmission hole and the second over the cooler line).As I stated before, I also need to know if there are any seals ( e.g. O-rings) in these connections, so that I can have new ones on hand before I undo the connection.
Expert:  Wolfgang replied 10 months ago.

ok i do need a vin # please because there are a couple of variations of the cooler set up to get the correct information


Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Wolfgang,I gave you the exact transmission type in my first message. It has been too long a time, so at this point, I would like to request a refund. As it is, I was overcharged anyway, as compared with the originally advertised price for this service ( it was in less than $10). So, please issue a refund and let's settle it at that. You do not have to know the answer to every question, and a refund is appropriate in such a case.
Expert:  Wolfgang replied 10 months ago.

but there are different cooler options that is why the request of the vin # . some coolers have flare nuts and some have quick disconnects with special fittings so how can i help if you did not provide the vin !!!

will report the refund but that is out of my control !

Customer: replied 10 months ago.
Wolfgang,I did not ask about cooler end connection specs, only transmission end.
Thanks for forwarding my refund request. Is there a way I can follow up with someone on the refund request ( a person who is in control)?