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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Transmissions
Satisfied Customers: 8606
Experience:  ASE Certified Diagnostic Technician
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Again, hopefully I get. He has been great. Next question. My

Customer Question

Again, hopefully I get Doug. He has been great. Next question. My clutch seems to engage way higher than I like. Much different than my 2004 Ralliart my 2010 Evo replaced. Is this adjustable? I like the clutch to engage closer to the floor of the car.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Transmissions
Expert:  Greg replied 1 year ago.

Adjusting the clutch pedal is very easy.

Simply loosen the lock nut from the bracket connecting the push rod to the back of the clutch pedal.

With the lock nut loose, the rod can be turned to move the clutch pedal higher or lower.

This will in turn increase or decrease the rod travel (and hydraulic movement) and dictate "where" in the pedal the clutch engages.

For the most part, the rod can simply be turned by hand. Wiggling the clutch pedal while turning the rod can make it easier, but there is a flattened location on the rod to use an 8mm wrench if turning it by hand is not possible.

To move the rod higher and increase travel (move engagement up), turn the rod clockwise. To reduce the travel (move engagement down), turn the rod counter-clockwise.

Now you have it set up close to where you want it then do a few test drives and adjust if needed then tighten up the lock nut ..

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Kind regards Greg

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have read about your solution before but when I looked under my dash at the clutch pedal it didn't seem so easy. Look at the attached file and please identify what I am supposed to adjust. Thanks.
Expert:  Greg replied 1 year ago.

Okay see which system you have on your car, this is full automatic adjustment .

There is nothing you can do on this system .(That i know off )

I will opt out and see if Doug can help you with this when he comes online .

Rgds Greg

Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

On the X models the clutch master is fully plastic and without any adjustment unfortunately.

If the system has been apart since the last time you had normal clutch operation, then I would recommend bleeding it just in case you have some air in the system. Bleeding the clutch is just like bleeding brakes, except you would want two people (don't use a vacuum pump), and you wouldn't "pump" the pedal, just do single travels of the pedal each time you release the valve. The bleeder valve is on the slave cylinder on the front of the transmission.

If the hydraulics are OK/free from air and without leaks, and you are getting good travel at the slave cylinder (moving an inch or so) indicating you don't you are having issues with the hydraulic system (internally leaking master, externally leaking slave), then the only remaining issue that would give you clutch engagement that is too high, this is only a result of a worn down clutch. The release bearing is travelling farther to compensate for the reduced thickness of the clutch, and so the spring pressure of the pressure plate is shifting the engagement point since you are no longer in a neutral tension point on the pressure plate.
The only resolution here is to replace the clutch friction disc. Of course as standard practice you would want to replace the release bearing at the same time, and inspect the pressure plate and flywheel to determine if they need replacement/resurfacing.

Again if you had normal behavior before any related work etc, try bleeding the system first just in case there is air in there. If no improvement verify you get good travel of the slave cylinder (and inch or so or better) and that you have no external leaks. If all looks good, it will be clutch disc time.