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I have a 2001 Toyota Camry LE 2.2l and I cannot for the life…

I have a 2001 Toyota...
I have a 2001 Toyota Camry LE 2.2l and I cannot for the life of me get rid of the P1135 error code. I know this is the B1S1 A/F sensor and i've replaced it and cleared the code and it comes back immediately after i turn the car on. Please help!!
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Answered in 39 minutes by:
8/18/2017
Dan
Dan, Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 25,946
Experience: Independent Shop Experience, 2 Year Automotive Diploma, & Access to Information Database
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Did you replace with a OEM sensor or aftermarket?

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
aftermarket denso, and the A/F sensors toyota is Denso so i dont see why that would cause the fault

Check the battery voltage to the Air/Fuel (A/F) ratio sensor and if the resistance is correct. If the resistance is correct, check for the correct current flow on the circuit. It needs to draw more than 0.25 amps and less than 8 amps when the O2 heater is grounded. O2 sensor heater should have good ground on cold starts. If it has both power/ground then this would leave oxygen sensor as the problem. The resistance specifications for the heater circuit are 0.8 to 1.4 ohms at 68 degrees and 1.8 to 3.2 ohms at 1400 degrees.Let me know how it goes or if you have questions, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
what am i connecting my voltometer to to check the amperage. There are four wires that feed into the A/F sensor a black wire, a black wire with a white stripe, a green wire, and a blue wire. I'm not sure where i'm supposed to put my black probe and where to put the red probe.

The black wire is positive and green wire gets grounded.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
Sorry i havent used the multimeter that often. So i plug the red wire in the top where it says 10Amax/ 10ADC and the black one in the bottom that says COM then i turn the dial on the multimeter to DCA (the options are 200u 2000u 20m 200m) i selected 20 m. i the put the black probe on the green wire and the red on the black wire. Do i need to turn the car on to get the reading and is my multimeter set up correctly?

I would just use the voltage option to vefiy power/ground are good so it should be in the 20 dcv option. Then to resistance test sensor use the 200 in resistance section. Let me know how it goes, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
When i turned the car on and put the multimeter on 20DCV and the black probe on green and the red probe on black it red 11.10. So that doesnt fall within your range right?

That would point toward a wiring problem or ground problem, next step is to use frame as a ground to see if red wire has good power "!2v" if so you know problem is ground wire. If still low that would mean power wire. Also make sure to inspect connector condition at oxygen sensor connector. Let me know how it goes or if you have questions, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
When i connected the black probe to the negative of the battery i got 13.98. Does that mean the ground wire is bad? and if so how do i fix that?
Customer reply replied 10 months ago
I also used the frame of the car and got that same 13.95 reading

I would first inspect wire connector going into computer and if good run a new wire from computer to sensor. Also make sure computer has good grounds, here is a connector diagram to help with testing. Let me know if you have questions or run into questions, please do not forget to rate answer. Thanks.

-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kcrducxxmfyhapg/ecm.pdf?dl=0

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
i regrounded the sensor to chassy and now its getting that 13.95 like the rest of the grounds. I also used a dremmel with a wire brush attachment and i removed all the ground point bolts and cleaned up the contact point for the grounds. I plugged it back up and cleared the code and 15 seconds later it popped back up with P1135. IDK if this helps but when i was using my scanner to see current data its reading O2S B1 S2 as .02V and O2FT B1 S2 as 99.15%

The sensor isn't supposed to be direclty grounded, the computer grounds it as needed.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
alright i can undo that no problem, i dont know how i'm supposed to be looking for the grounding fault from the computer

At wires on connector diagram labeled ground. You can use battery positive for power then see if reading shows 12v when using ground on connector as ground.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
alright makes sense, im on it

Sounds good, let me know if you need anything. You can reply at any time without additional fees even after rating answer. Thanks.

Dan
Dan, Technician
Category: Toyota
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Experience: Independent Shop Experience, 2 Year Automotive Diploma, & Access to Information Database
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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
I checked all of the grounds on the car as well as every fuse with the multi meter and i cant find a single fault. I cant find out why the ground wire to the O2 sensor is causing the sensor to receive 11.30V. Any other ideas? Do i need a new ECM?

You made sure all of the grounds going to ECM showed 12v+ when ground was connected to ECM connector and power was connected to battery?

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
How am i supposed to check the grounds going to the ecm while also keeping the red probe all the way at the battery? And how am i checking the ground wires going to the ecm am i sticking the probe into the slot with the ground wire trying to make contact with the wire? And i also didnt understand the diagram you linked, none said ground. Am i looking in the STD column? Sorry i have alot of questions at this point

There are 5 separate grounds going to the ECM, they are brown wires. You can use a separate jumper wire to go from battery positive to meter so it can reach. Let me know how it goes, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
i had brown wires on E11-21,30,31 and E10-8,17,18 all of which gave 14v while the car was on so it looks like the grounds are good.

I'd take a high beam test light and make sure all grounds power a test light nice and bright too before replacing ECM. I'd even consider trying a OEM sensor before replacing ECM just since ECM is expensive. If test light is bright on each ground and OEM sensor doesn't help then I'd go with the ECM. Let me know how it goes, thanks.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
I can get an ECM pretty cheap from the salvage yard (Pull-a-Part) if it comes to that. And by testing the light on each ground do you mean each ECM ground or all grounds in general?

I meant each ECM ground. Let me know how it goes, thanks.

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