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Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 14503
Experience:  Toyota Master Diagnostic
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Vehicle description: 2002 Toyota Camry 4 Cyl car with about

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Vehicle description: 2002 Toyota Camry 4 Cyl car with about 180,000 miles.Friday 11:30 AM Drove about three miles and left it for about 5 minutes.
Returned to find the car would not start. The atmosphere was about 90 F with high humidity.
Returned again about 7:30 that evening, started the car and drove it about three miles again
Right after the successful trip, I tried to restart the car, but it would not start at all.
The roads were still wet from rain that afternoon, temperature about 78 F.
When the key was in the ingition, a buzzing sound came from under the hood.
In the active starting key position, there was another louder buzz from under the hood.
It was difficult to locate this one. Took a 3 minute video of the experience.Two days later in the afternoon, the process repeated with the same results.
This time, we disconnected the battery for about ten minutes first.
I drove the car about three miles around the neighborhood, and parked it at home.
I noticed this time, that the idle was low.
The engine would not restart. The temperature was 80 F and rising.After another 30 minutes, the engine would restart, and the idle remained low.
The engine even stopped and needed a re-start. Surprisingly, the restart worked.The only other problem I have had with the car is sluggish acceleration, and a reluctance
to upshift to a higher gear in cold weather until it warms up.What do you think is the problem?What or who should I go to next?Approximately how much should the repair cost? My location is in Dayton, Ohio.

Can you post a link to the video so I can hear the noise?

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Having trouble manipulating the file. I just ran it on dropbox. Can I share the box with you, and allow you to see/hear it that way? I think it can be shared if I have the email name to allow privileges. Another option would be to call me on the phone, and listen to me playing the video. Sound would probably be less clear.
Customer: replied 3 months ago.
It is a two tone humming sound, much like what you might hear coming out of an electrical transformer.

Post a link here to the drop box file.

Skyvisions and 4 other Toyota Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Does this give you access to the video?
Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Does this give you access to the video? I think I have to "share" it with an email address to allow access.

I have a drop box account but can not get that address to work.

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
This should work. I was supposed to create a link, not copy the link I was using.

That worked but I am on my mobile device. I will recheck it when I am back after lunch and get back to you with some thoughts. Do you have a voltmeter? Are there any codes set in the engine computer?

The buzzing noise appears to be the loudest when you're near the evap valve located on the side of the intake boot. If you disconnect that does the noise go away the only other places sounded loud was from the alternator if you disconnect the alternator does the noise go away? If you disconnect the large cable that is held on with a 10 mm nut be very careful that that cable does not touch the ground it will create much worse problems. Isolate it with tape. Use a voltmeter to see if you getting 12 V to the engagement wire that goes to the starter in the start position? Have the battery retested and make sure it's capable of handling at least 350 cold cranking amps. When you turn the key to the start position does the buzzing noise stop?

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
We couldn't get the connector in the picture to release, so we went to the fuse box, and pulled a relay labeled EFI. That stopped the buzzing. Any way to get that stuck connector to release? All other connectors release when you depress the release lever and pull.

The is the a buzzing definitely coming from that valve? If you use a small screwdriver pry the tab up on the lock mechanism as you push down with your finger on the lock tab to release it. How did the battery test out? Did you check for voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position and does the buzzing noise go away when the key is in the start position?

Customer: replied 3 months ago.
Drove to Autozone yesterday to have the car checked out. Battery test was a simple pass/fail. Result was fail.
I had them use a can reader to check for codes.
The four Error Codes Read were:
1. P1135 A/F Sensor-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction)
2. P0100 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
3. P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
4. P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
I think I should be able to attach a scan of the full writeup, which recommends a new Oxygen Sensor. Do you need that?
As a result of the battery fail, no further tests were executed.Notably, the car started up on departure from Autozone.
This morning I was able to pry the connector loose, using your method. Thanks! The buzzing is stopped.
Question on sequence of next steps.Should I go to Walmart to have the battery replaced first?
Do you think they would perform the test, check for voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position, if I asked them specifically to do so?
Customer: replied 3 months ago.
I should clarify on the buzzing, it happens when the key is in the full on position. That is when the A/C, windows, radio, etc. are available. It doesn't happen when the key is in the ignition, or in the first click position.

First of all dealing with the codes the P1135 code is pretty straightforward. 99.9% of the time this is a bad heater circuit within the air fuel ratio sensor itself use only a Denso brand sensor you can get them on line rock for the best price. The sensor screws right in the exhaust manifold and there's one connector zip tied to the upper radiator hose simply disconnect the connector ends unscrew the sensor. If the sensor appears to be frozen or locked once it starts to turn don't force it stop and put brake fluid on the base of the sensor at the threads let it sit for about five or 10 minutes then work it back and forth and it will come right out. The two codes dealing with the intake air temp sensor in the mass airflow sensor probably codes that got set if the mass airflow sensor was disconnected with the key in the on position. Ensure your mass airflow sensor is connected remove the negative battery cable and clear the codes. You also need to clean the throttlebody I spoke with a gentleman this morning and he claims that the idle is way too low and it won't relearn. That is normal whenever the battery has been disconnected remove the intake boot at the throttlebody use carburetor/choke cleaner and a rag spray in the throttlebody manually push the brass valve open and wipe the throttle bore thoroughly to make sure it's clean. Reconnect the battery cable and start the vehicle allowing it to clear out and hold the engine RPM at about 2000 RPM for about 30 seconds release the throttle and should idle fine. Get the battery replaced and see if the buzzing stops that solenoid that is buzzing is the purge valve and should only be on or duty cycling when the computer is trying to purge the vapor out the charcoal canister. You need to confirm when it's in the start position whether or not 12 V is getting to the small engagement wire at the starter. If there's not 12 V there the starter will not engage. Confirm that if necessary use a jumper wire and go from the positive battery terminal down to the pin in that small connector at the starter and see if you can force the starter to turn over if you can then you know it's not an intermittent problem in the starter and if the 12 V is not getting to that engagement wire you will need to backtrace it from there. It's possible could be a starter relay or have seen the neutral safety switch fail that starter circuit goes through the neutral safety switch. I have seen those switches failed due to corrosion. If you shifted to neutral see if that will allow the starter to engage. Let me know how things go and I'll get back with you later I will be off-line most of the day today.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
July 12th, replaced battery at WalMart.
Drove to Autozone and had tests done. Battery, alternator passed, same codes were passed from the computer.
Went 5 miles, and parked for 1/2 hour.
Returned to the car. It started, but would not shift into gear. The button would not depress.
Went back the next morning, started the car, and the gear shift acted normally.
Drove it back to the garage, and did not drive it for two weeks.
July 30, PM. Started the car several times, it continued to start normally.
Ran it for 10 minutes with the hood down, and then re-started it.
Ran it for another 5 minutes and it failed to start.
Connected directly from the battery to the starter pin, and it still did not start, although plenty of juice was getting there.
The idle varies somewhat, but is running at acceptable levels now, between 750 and 1000 rpm.
I haven't gotten to clean the throttlebody yet. Will do it if the idle continues to be a problem.
I haven't replaced the o2 sensor yet.
Should I replace the starter solonoid? And do you have any guidance on the gear lockup?

Based on your latest description by putting 12 V directly to the pin at the starter and having plenty of current through the wire and the starter did not engage indicates there is an intermittent problem in the coil windings of the starter solenoid. You will need to replace the starter. As far as not coming out of park it sounds like you have an intermittent problem with the stop light switch. If the stop light switch does not activate when the brake pedal is pushed it will not allow the shift interlock ECU to activate the solenoid to retract the pin from the shifter lever. You may need to replace the stop light switch if it occurs again have someone check the brake light and see if they're coming on. If the lights are coming on and still will not shift out of park it's possible you could have a shift interlock solenoid problem.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Which starter should I choose? New or rebuilt? Brand?
It looks like the battery and other parts need removed to replace the starter. Any tips on degree of difficulty or what to watch out for?
If I take it to my local mechanic, how much of the job can I reasonably expect to hire out for $1,000?
Should I do some of the easier jobs myself, to keep the estimated total cost in the $1,000 ballpark?I think the priority should be:
1. Starter
2. Any shifter/transmission issue.
3. Idle speed (slow idle causes everything under hood to shake violently.)
4. Investigate and if necessary fix "P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected"
5. Any of the following that would impact the gas mileage and general performance of the vehicle.
a. P1135 A/F Sensor-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Heater Circuit Malfunction)
b. P0100 Mass Airflow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
c. P0110 Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
d. Replacing the purge valve
Do you generally prioritize the same?

Sorry for the delay been off-line for a while. A new starter would probably be too expensive just about any rebuild unit will work. As far as the brand I normally use only Toyota remanufactured alternators. They are a little more $ but you have better quality. The air box and battery will have to be removed there at only 2 14 mm bolts that hold the starter to the top of the transmission and one 12 mm nut that holds the main cable on and one small electrical connector. It's not that difficult if you YouTube the job you'll probably find a video on YouTube. The labor typically is one hour labor time for local rate. The starter generally will run anywhere from $125-$250 to and where you get it. Your list sounds about right. The air fuel ratio sensor will affect fuel mileage short-term if you do not require emissions testing the heater circuit is what has failed this sensor will still work just takes longer to get online. The codes for the mass airflow sensor will set if the mass airflow sensor was unplugged with the key in the on position position. I would swap the ignition coil with cylinder number three which is the middle one on the back with cylinder one coil which is the one on the back bank and passenger-side. If the code follows the ignition coil then you have a bad coil.