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Do you have a code reader to check for malfunction code that would be set engine computer? Is the battery fully charged at this time?
Will The system ready on if you put the key fob in the slot on the instrument panel just below the start button?
The phone service is an automated service and is available. If you would like to go that route just accept the offer and supply the phone information and I will get back to when you are ready.
Make sure your iPad and that cable you're using works on another known good running Toyota. Just want to rule out it's not a cable or communication issue with the iPad. I'm not familiar with that particular set up. We will also need some type of voltmeter or simple 12 V test light to check for voltages to confirm whether the diagnostic plug is getting power to it.
If you are 100% certain that it's not a connection issue with the scan tool or the cable and you have 12 V and ground that the proper pins on the diagnostic port this only leaves a communications issue on the network. That gets quite complicated quickly to test and check that it requires removing the 12 the battery cable and ohm testing the high-speed can network to both power and ground. Is that something you will be able to do?
Forgot to ask if you have the key fob in the slot on the instrument panel then push down on the brake pedal does the LED in the start button turn green or orange or does it not even come on?
Do you have any other key to try? Do the Brake lights come on when the brake pedal is pushed?
Any chance you can post a short video clip or a link to a video clip showing you depressing the brake pedal and pushing the start so I can see what exactly is going on with the display and warning lights that would be helpful.
That flashing security light on the instrument panel even after the key is placed into the slot on the dashboard indicates that the immobilizer system is not recognizing that key fob. That's why nothing is turning on. This could be a problem in the immobilizer system or the key fob itself could be bad. If that's the only key that you have this is a problem. The only way to override the system is to have a scan tool that will communicate with the immobilizer system to program a key and that typically can only be done at the dealership. Without having the key working so that the immobilizer system will allow the vehicle to turn on this will not start. Now you could have a power supply problem to the immobilizer system the only way to rule that out is to check for voltage at every fuse in the fuse block under the hood and the fuse block inside the vehicle. Making sure that those that are supplied with battery voltage KEY OFF have power to them. At this point you're probably going to need to take this to the dealer and have a new key programed to it. The system has to be completely rewritten when you have no functioning keys. By that I mean the dealership has to erase the memory in the computer and then rewrite new codes to new keys. The fact that the immobilizer system is not coming on would explain why your scan tool will not communicate with the system because is not coming online. I will give you the pin out diagram click the link and check the resistance of the pins indicated. This is the high-speed can system and battery voltage and ground pins. The resistance on the high-speed can network needs to be approximately 62 ohms. You should have no resistance to ground and no resistance to the 12 V battery terminal in this connector. Do these resistance checks with the 12 V battery disconnected. Using your ohmmeter check for resistance between terminal number 6 and terminal number 14. It should be approximately 62 ohms then leaving one of the probes in terminal 6 take the other probe and check for continuity to pin 16 and pin 4 there should be no continuity or above 20k there then switch and probe pin 14 and check for continuity to pin 4 an pin 16 there should be no or above 20k continuity there either. If these resistance checks turn out okay then the high-speed can network is not shorted to ground and not shorted to the 12 V lead and has the proper resistance and the system should be communicating. The next thing to do would be to make sure you have 12 V to pin 16 once you reattach the battery cable and you should have less than 1 ohm of resistance from terminal four to any metal surface that's clean. That would indicate that the ground circuit to the DLC three connector is normal. If these checks and test turn out okay and you have 12 V to the fuses in the junction block under the hood that are supposed to have 12 V then the problem is in the immobilizer key for the immobilizer system itself.
There was a typo on the resistance values from the can network either pin number six or pin number 14 to the B+ terminal 16 and ground terminal pin four. There should be more than 1 million ohms resistance not 20 K.
You are welcome.