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Thanks for posting
Does the fuse blow only when the key is turned to ON or with the key off as well?
Do you have a volt/ohm meter (multimeter).
Ok, disconnect the fuel injectors, there should be a connector that disconnects them all but if not remove all the injector connectors and check again.
I'm thinking the problem may be a shorted injector or wire, it's the only other place the switch provides power to with the key on. Waiting to hear back from you tomorrow then.
Thanks for the reply, that means the short is between the injectors and the ignition switch or one of the injectors is shorted to ground. To locate a bad or shorted injector put in a good fuse and with the key on plug each injector back one by one and see which one causes the fuse to blow, if it's only one then that's the problem.
Thanks, ***** ***** fuse panel inside pull the 7.5A ign fuse out and re check it, we have to go one step at a time here, if the fuse still blows disconnect all plugs from the computer, you'll have to remove the glove box it's located just above, it's the first one to the left.
OK keep me posted.
It still blows with all connectors off?
Let me briefly explain my take on this, The 30 A AM2 fuse gets voltage from the battery through the 80A main fuse, then to the ignition switch, everything else is on the other side of the switch, the fuse does not blow unless the key is on and completes the circuits to the other side, You have disconnected them all but the fuse still blows, the power after the switch goes directly to the fuel injectors, before it branches off and connects to the coil/igniter and branches off to the noise filter, that's it there are no other circuits involved coming from the AM2 side of the switch.
The reason I asked to disconnect the computer is because the other wires from the injectors go to the computer. That only leaves the wiring between the switch and these connections which when disconnected still blow the fuse. It could be a short inside the wiring harness, damaged insulation shorting to ground etc, the only way to find which wire it is involved is to check each with an ohm meter to ground, if you think you'd like to pursue this please buy an inexpensive meter from the hardware store for around $20 and we can continue to try to solve this.
That's ok, just reply when you can.