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My heater blows air but not warm air even if I turn it to

high. Prior to this happening...
My heater blows air but not warm air even if I turn it to high. Prior to this happening, for several weeks I've been hearing gerbil-like noises from behind the glove compartment. Took it out and it appears to be coming from one or both of the door actuator motors for the air flow control (it's an automatic heating system, not manual knobs). The gerbil noises are gone. Wondering if there's a connection.
JA: Have you checked the coolant level? Have you checked the hoses for leaks?
Customer: I did. All seems to be in order. I just drove for about an hour and the hoses are nice and hot.
JA: What is the model/year of your Toyota?
Customer: 2006 corolla verso 2.2 Diesel.
JA: Are you fixing your Corolla yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: I only discovered it this evening. I have a trip to take tomorrow overnight. It's not too cold yet so should be ok, just planning for what to do when I get back.
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: I want to know if faulty flow control valves on the automated heater could be the cause of my concern. If so, is there a way to remove them without removing the dash?
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Answered in 1 hour by:
9/17/2016
david craig
david craig, Auto Mechanic
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 4,035
Experience: owner/mechanic at 3D Automotive
Verified

Hi Im David, thanks for visiting the site, the blend door actuator is probably at fault. either stuck or the door actuator rod broken.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Thanks for your reply. My repair manual indicates I have to remove the entire dash assembly to get to it. Looks like a lot of work though fairly straightforward. Just wondering if you know of a less onerous way of accessing the blend door actuator.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Also is there a dedicated fuse that could be fried or is it coupled with other devices

there is no dedicated fuse for the individual actuators unfortunately. the only other thing you may want to try is the actuator recalibration. i believe you pull the battery fuse(key off) for 30 seconds then reinstall it. the actuators should recalibrate to their correct positions.

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any update? if you were satisfied with my assistance please accept the answer and leave a 5 star rating. thank you and have a great week

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I've removed the door actuator. I found a way to do it without removing the dashboard, although I did have to drill a small hole in the wall of one of the rigid heater ducts beneath the dash to access one of the screws. I'll just tape it up, should be fine. I was able to manually manipulate the blend door, which moved easily and freely, and which allowed plenty of hot air into the cabin, so at least it's verified I don't have a thermostat/air in the system/water pump, etc. problem. I'm now going to test the actuator by plugging it back in and seeing if I can get the motor to move. If it works, I'll clean the inside, try to revive it, just to see if I can get it to work for a bit longer. In this case, I will definitely need to recalibrate the actuator using your suggestion above. Can you please clarify what the "battery fuse" is? Is that one of the large amp fuses in the engine compartment that feeds power to the other fuse boxes? Would disconnecting the battery and reconnecting render the same result? Many thanks.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Update: the actuator motor seems to work fine. I reinstalled it and moved the temp up and down to it's extremes and the motor moved the door back and forth to it's limits, without noises. I tried to put the actuator back together as accurately as I could, lining up the brushes with the marks they make through the grease on the actuator gear wheel. So either I got it right, or the act of unplugging and plugging back in the actuator initiated a recalibration? I identified a 140A Type C fuse that seemed I thought might be the "battery fuse" but I couldn't remove it. Neither did I disconnect the battery. At the moment everything seems to be working properly so I'm not going to mess with it. I'll take it to work today and try it out. If it starts malfunctioning again, I'll try the recalibration procedure you mentioned, if you can give me guidance as to whether a battery disconnect would do the same thing, or if the fuse needs to be removed as you state and if so, have I identified the correct fuse? Many thanks.

if you would need to recal it, you would pull the 30 amp "POWER" fuse......but sounds like you will be fine. please accept the answer and leave me a 5 star rating if you were satisfied with my help. thank you and have a great week

david craig
david craig, Auto Mechanic
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 4,035
Experience: owner/mechanic at 3D Automotive
Verified
david craig and 87 other Toyota Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
OK got it. Thanks for your help!

thanks!

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david craig
david craig
david craig, Auto Mechanic
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 4,035
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Experience: owner/mechanic at 3D Automotive

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