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How did you check to tell whether the fuel pump is coming on or not? What procedure did you use? You are aware that when the key is simply in the on position the fuel pump does not run if the engine is not running. Are you getting any malfunction codes retrieved from the engine control computer? When the key is in the on position is the yellow check engine light illuminated?
Did you check for 12 V at the fuel pump or did you run a physical fuel pressure test? You say there is no check engine light on I'm not referring to when the engine is running I'm saying when you simply turn the key on the yellow check engine light does illuminate?
That is a problem. The fuel pump won't run because the computer is not online. That is unless there is a problem with the instrument panel or the LED for the check engine light but that's not likely. Do you have a voltmeter to check for voltages at some specific points? Do you have any history on the vehicle leading up to this current problem? When it quit running at 70 miles an hour after that was it jumped backwards or was the battery ever dead?
Just simply log back on to your account that you have been in reply to this same post do not open up another question. Once you have a voltmeter I need you to pop the lid off of the fuse box under the hood and identify the fuses by looking at the inside of the lid. Make sure you have a good ground connection on your negative or black lead from your voltmeter then carefully back probe both sides of each fuse to see if any of the fuses have 12 V both sides should have 12 V of each fuse if it only has volts on one side the fuse is blown. Let me know the results of that test.