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Thanks for posting
There is a common problem on these engines for stalling/ hard starting, the idle air control (IAC) valve, it's located on the bottom of the throttle body, the recommendation is to remove te throttle body, then remove the valve and clean it using an air intake cleaner/carbon remover, at the same time the inside of the throttle body should be cleaned using the same cleaning agent and a brush to remove the carbon deposits, if the IAC valve is not serviceable, is stuck and can't be freed up I will need to be replaced for best results.
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Thanks for the reply,
What I recommended doing was to fix the "stalls at idle and slow speed" concern .
I recommended to clean the IAC valve and the throttle body to fix this. Im sorry but I don't understand your last reply. I have nothing else, maybe someone else has a better answer for you.
another tech here do you still want an answer?
if the engine keeps stalling out at idle then it could be an airleak after the airflow meter, any air dragged in here isn't 'seen' by the ECU and so not compensated for and can lean the engine out then causing rough running.
As its a mechanical fault it tends not to turn on the fault light and you can sometimes hear a 'hissing' noise with the engine running.
Check the hose clips for tightness and inspect the trunking for any cracks or splits and also all the vacuum system, the small bore pipes and fittings for cracks and missing parts.
The best way to locate a leak is to have the engine running and warm and then spray lighter gas /propane around each joint in turn. If the engine rev's up you've found your leak.
Now you might think that spraying lighter gas around a hot engine isn’t wise, however the flash /ignition point of gas is about 400°C so you need a naked flame or spark to set it off and I’ve used this method for many years without incident.
Work your way through each possible joint one at a time and you should find it. I use a slightly flattenedpiece of brake pipe and some rubber hose from the can of lighter gas to provide a spraying 'wand' and allow a direct blast of gas into each area, especially those difficult to reach with large implements.
OK that still fits as air leaks are very temperature dependent as gaps can open or close up as things expand with heat, so the weather and engine temperature can effect them. so they can come and go depending on how hot things are under the hood
This leads them to be quite intermittent in the case of mild leaks
its also worth cleaning the airflow meter by removing it from the car and spraying the exposed sensor wires inside the tube with a brake or switch cleaner - ensure that the cleaner is one of the old fashioned, non Eco type that does not leave a residue
On no account touch the sensor wires with anything physical as they are extremely fragile
do you still need help?
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