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Ask Ted Ritter Your Own Question
Ted Ritter
Ted Ritter, Toyota Master Tech
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 4383
Experience:  Toyota Master Tech, ASE Certified
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Le: I have a 1999 Toyota camry le. 249,000 miles When driving

Customer Question

I have a 1999 Toyota camry le. 249,000 miles When driving on a 8 hr trip the 10 amp fuse to the gages blew. I first noticed it when I got back on the freeway from a rest stop because the engine was acting funny. I noticed my gages were out and then replaced the 10 amp fuse. When I shifted into drive I drove maybe 300 feet and it blew again. I changed the fuse once more and drove the rest of the trip approx 100 miles. The check engine light came on about 80 miles out and when I exited the freeway at my destination it went off. On Mr return trip the same thing happen on the way home. Except this time I had no choice but to run a larger fuse because there was no stores available. About 3 miles from home the car would not shift out of first gear so I just limped it home. Now in trying to diagnose the problem with all the correct size fuses in place the starter engages at the run position on the key. I have replaced ignition lock cylinder and the ignition lock as well as the relay,. None of this has fixed the problem. Can you help me.?
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  mike switzer replied 1 year ago.
the most common problems on these that cause that fuse to blow is the trunks wiring harness. try opening the trunk and moving the trunk around and see if that causes it to blow. however since you said that you got stuck in limp mode i would be looking at the park neutral switch is going bad which will also blow the 10amp fuse.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I also noticed while on my trip something that looked like arching when I turned on my blinker late at night but there was no smellsCan that be a cause for the starter remaining engaged when the key is in the run position
Expert:  mike switzer replied 1 year ago.
something arching in the engine bay? usually either a bad ignition switch or the starter would cause the starter to remain engage.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No the arching seemed to be coming from the guage area but it did not blow a fuse.at that.time that I recall. I have changed the starter the park nuetral swithc the key.cylinder and switch and the starter will still not disengage. What can I start to disable in order od importance until I find the culprit
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Oh by the way I.did open the trunk and check the wires. Their didI not appear to be any damage. I read a bit about the drivers.side door wiring harnes and wires having issues because of use. Could that be a contributor to the problem. Some wire somewhere has got to be wholly ng the.power I.am just stumped on where to look
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I also checked the ignition switch wiring and their seems to be two constant sources.of power coming into the harness one being the.white.wire and.the.other the black and red.wire.which has two wires coming out of one pin. Still working on that one. I can find.the.schematic on the i16 male connector harness end to be able to identify what they are.for. ANY CLUE?
Expert:  mike switzer replied 1 year ago.
if you noticed arching in the gauge area you have a short in your gauge cluster. it arching is les likely to blow a fuse because it is not getting a solid contact. when it blows the fuse it is more direct shorted. i would remove the gauge cluster and inspect the wiring behind there if it looks okay. i would replace your gauge cluster.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
i have replaced the park nuetral switch twice and my obd II computer is still giving me the code p1780 and i have cleared the code. in nuetral it will start and the starter will disengage. but when it is in park the starter will not disengage. does that ring any bells as to the problem area.
Expert:  mike switzer replied 1 year ago.
i will opt out and allow another expert to help with this.
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Hello,I have read your entire exchange with the previous expert, you stated that you checked the trunk wires visually but saw no problem, thre problem may be inside the wiring insulation, a common problem on these older camrys, You'll need to cut the insulation opemn from the hinge on the trunk to the inside where the hearness goes behind the carpet, look for any broken wires or insulation on the individual wires inside the harness, pulling the wires apart may show up the ones that ae broken, you should also check the light failure relay in the trunk on the left under the carpet, this is where the tail light harness connects, these relays can burn out due to the short.