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Chris (aka-Moose)
Chris (aka-Moose), Auto Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 947
Experience:  16 years of experience
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I have 95 camry cranks and idles fine when cold starts a rough

Customer Question

I have 95 camry cranks and idles fine when cold starts a rough idle as it warms up finally dies out will not take fuel unable to get dtc's from jumping e1 and t1 check engine light on steady
JA: Sometimes things that you think will be really complicated end up being easy to fix with a Toyota. The Toyota Mechanic I'm going to connect you with knows all the tricks and shortcuts. Are you hoping to fix this yourself?
Customer: yes i'm a former gm mechanic helping a single mom
JA: Great! What have you tried so far?
Customer: reset ecm cleaned tbi and iac checked all fuses and connectors
JA: Is there anything else the Toyota Mechanic should be aware of about your Toyota?
Customer: 162k + miles had a converter stop up replaced it ran great for about 2weeks then this started also the speedometer comes and goes while driving causing engine stumble
JA: OK. Got it. I'm sending you to a secure page on JustAnswer so you can place the $5 fully-refundable deposit now. While you're filling out that form, I'll tell the Toyota Mechanic about your situation and then connect you two.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Toyota
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Hello, thanks for posting your questionIf the engine light turns on with the key and stays on steady with thejumper in plce you are probably not making a good connection with the terminals in the check connector, even if there are no codes it should flash, be sure that you make contact with the metal terminals in the connector. if there is a provblem with the ignition system it should set a code but not if it's fuel related, at this point I'm not sure which it is, please try to check for codes again. The only thing that I can tell you to check now is the ignition coil, it should be inside the distributor ion this engine, remove the cap and inspect the rotor, remove the coil cover and check the coil for cracks on the top surface, check for arcing to ground on the bottom area near the distributor cap, this is where they normally burn through, if it's not that recheck for codes, I don't want to just recommend trying things that may or may not work so it's best to follow normal troubleshooting procedures, however, the coil is inexpensive so if in doubt try a new one, also it will help if you have a voltmeter or a 12 volt test light.