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Ask Ted Ritter Your Own Question
Ted Ritter
Ted Ritter, Toyota Master Tech
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 4383
Experience:  Toyota Master Tech, ASE Certified
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1991 MR2 Turbo won't start JA: Thanks. Can you give me any

Customer Question

1991 MR2 Turbo won't start
JA: Thanks. Can you give me any more details about your issue?
Customer: actually it will start after trying to turn it over 6-7 times but then will idle really rough until the engine is warm
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Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Toyota
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Fuel pressure checked out at 40 psi which is okay. New fuel filter, distributor cap, rotor, wires, and plugs
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
cleaned out the AFM and throttle body
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
replaced the engine temp sensor
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
it does start better and idle better if I spray started fluid in it. I believe it will start first time if I use starting fluid
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
it only had 3,000 miles put on it the past 3 years and I believe it sat outside for a while before I purchased it
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I did a boost leak test and ended up deleting the EGR because air was escaping at it
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Hello, since it seems to run better by manually putting fuel/starting fluid into the intake it's either a fuel restriction or there is an intake air leak. How long ago did you buy it and did it ever run normally after you bought it until now?
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
have you checked for any possible diagnostic codes?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I checked the codes, there wasn't anything. I bought it a couple months ago. It has always had issues with starting. I checked the fuel pressure at the rail and it was 40 PSI which is only 2 PSI higher than the the recommendation. I drained the old gas and put new clean gas in it. Would a bad Intake Air Control Valve cause this? I did an Ohm Resistance test and it checked out.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Since I have enough fuel pressure at the rail and it starts right up with started fluid, could this mean bad injectors?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Or maybe gummed up?
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Thanks for the reply, both of those could be the problem, the IAC valve may be stuck, especially since it sat for a long time, the resistance test only checks the electrical circuit, there is a rotating valve inside the control fast idle when cold, if the valve is stuck in one position it can cause this problem, so i would recommend first to remove it from the throttle body and check that the valve moves freely, you should be able to push it open with a thin screwdriver and it should return to the almost but not completely closed position, if there is no improvement there an injector cleaner service may be needed, you can try some over the counter fuel additive and see if that will make a difference.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Okay, here is my current status. I replaced the gummed up cold start injector. I replaced some of the hoses and clamps.I removed and cleaned the IACV. It can move freely and when I put power to it, it opened and closed as it should. When it has no power to it, the valve is at slightly less than half way open. Is this where is should be? In your previous post you said it should be at almost but not completely closed position.Anyways, after all that work, it now starts a little better but still take 4 or 5 cranks to get it going. And idles better, but still have to wait for it to warm up, otherwise it will die when the accelerator is pushed.
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Thanks for the reply, the valve should have a gap of about 1/16" when returned by the spring at around 65F temperature.Another thing is to perhaps check fuel pressure, it should be about 38psi while idling or cranking, since using starting fluid seems to help it does sound like this is fuel related, you should also check residual fuel pump pressure after sitting overnight, the pressure should not drain off and there should be about 18 psi or so remaining in the fuel lines to help cold starting
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The PSI at the rail was 40 when I jumpered the fuel pump on the diagnosis port. I will check when it is idling. and leave the pressure gauge on it over night to check the next morning.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will also try to get the gap right on the IACV
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Thanks, I'll check back with you then. I think there is some adjustment posible on the bottom of the valve.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Something I noticed last night. The battery and oil light would flicker occasionally when it was idling rough or when I pushed on the brake pedal. Once the engine warmed up and it was running smoothly the lights would no longer flicker. I check the voltage while idling it was 14 DC. I check the AC voltage while idling and it was at 22. I believe I read somewhere that this could mean a bad alternator. Is this true? And could this cause idle issues?
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
The alternator could be the problem but you are getting 14 volts so the only thing that may be happening is that the alternator current is too low, that can be checked with a charging system tester, most autoparts stores like autozone check this for free. Not sure what you mean by ac voltage.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I was testing the AC to check for excessive ripple and a bad diode. Which I believe it does according to the test I believe it does.
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Ok, the only way we ever check an alternator is for voltage and current under load so I can't objectively agree that the alternator is causing this problem.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I think you are probably right on the alternator being okay, that wouldn't cause starting issues anyways. I put about 30 miles on the car this weekend and had a buddy drive it that has autocrossed in the past. He drove it rigorously and it held up. It still took a minute to get it started. Here is a link to the video I took of me trying to start it. https://goo.gl/photos/gjLdVSTYyPRSxwF66
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Thanks, ***** ***** want to double check, this is the 3S-GTE engine, right?It does sound like it's not getting enough fuel when cold and it seems to run ok otherwise and no diagnostic codes.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes, 3S-GTE, the turbo
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Bad or clogged injectors? I put Techron injector cleaner in the tank and then put another 15 miles on the car. How long would it take to get the injectors cleaned up if that is the issue?
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
I'll check some more things and get back to you shortly. Been a while since I had a starting problem on one of these, do you know if it has a cold start injector on the intake chamber?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It does have one and I recently replaced it as the old one was extremely gummed up. I also replaced the engine temp sensor tied to the cold start system.
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Ok, the cold start injector has a temp sender of it's own called the cold start injector time switch, if you have a manual at hand see if you can locate it, it should be near the water outlet where the thermostat is, it's larger that any of the other sensors and has two wires on it, try replacing that, it sounds like that may be the problem or it may just be disconnected, if you can't locate it let me know, or if in doubt send me as picture of the sensors in that area.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have already replaced it. When I bought the car it was broken so I replaced it. The one I replaced it with a used one since they are so expensive. Is there a way to test it? I believe I tested the ohms and it was in range.
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
I doubt if it's the problem thn, it changes resistance with temperature, you can try disconnecting it, try it that way or put a jumper in the terminals, see if it makes a difference. sorry, I'm running out of ideas, listening to it when you're trying to start just sounds like there is not enough fuel when cold. The cold start injector is supposed to work while cranking then stay on for a few seconds until the injectors take over. There's another thing left you haven't tried yet, the ECM, it may be a good idea to get to it and check the connectors for corrosion or bad connections and computer grounds, the ground wires are usually all brown/black, check the grounds for the injectors on the engine as well or just try to find another one either rebuilt or used, just make sure it is the same part number or a superseeded number.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I jumpered the terminals on the plug that connects to the sensor. It started the same, as in it did not start. I plugged the sensor back in, got the car running with some starter fluid, let it get up to temp and shut it down. I checked the error codes and i had a 22. Which is that sensor, so I assume everything is good with it since it triggered the code when I jumpered the plug to it. I will see if I can find someone with a good stock ECU and test it out after looking at all the connections.
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Ok, that sounds good.
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Another thing I thought of was to make sure there are absolutely no air leaks between the air flow meter and the throttle body, even a small crack in the rubber intake hose can be the problem, and you did have 40psi while cranking ,right/ not while the engine is running but while cranking, you may have to disable the coil to test that so the engine can crank longer.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
That 40PSI what at the fuel rail when I jumpered the FP and +B on the diagnosis check connector. I can try it out while cranking. I am going to install a permanent fuel pressure gauge sometime soon.
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
It's important to check while cranking, when using the jumper you are bypassing the relays and the airflow meter, the fuel pump control circuit goes through the air flow meter, with the door of the a/f meter completely closed the fuel pump does not work until the vacuum from the engine opens the door, then the contacts are closed in the meter to let the pump run.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Okay, I installed a fuel pressure gauge at the rail. I get 38-40 PSI when cranking. I added techron injector cleaner to the tank of gas. Is there a chance I need to run through that tank and hope the injectors get cleaned out?
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Yes, that's about the only thing I got left at this time.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Should I test compression or anything? Or can I assume it is going to be okay because it isn't burning any oil?
Expert:  Ted Ritter replied 1 year ago.
Well, the compression could still be low even if it doesn't use any oil or smoke, just to be sure maybe a good idea to do that.

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