Have Toyota Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Is the air-conditioning completely nonfunctional at this point? Or does it still work occasionally? In order to diagnosis if you've already replaced the magnetic clutch relay the system is going to need to be in the nonfunctioning condition. Do you have a voltmeter are simple 12 V test light? When you push the button on the AC switch does the light stay illuminated and it is still blowing warm air or is it flashing again?
At any time did the light in the AC button start to flash when it started blowing warm air?
Has the refrigerant level been checked in the system? The Relay that you tried in the MAG clutch relay spot? Was it a new toyota relay.
If the light in the AC switch did not flash and the air-conditioning was blowing warm air this is not a relay problem. If the relay was ever an issue the AC control panel/computer will detect the no revolution of the compressor because it knows it sent a signal to the relay to turn it on and power up the compressor. Whenever this happens it causes the AC light to flash. In your case you're saying that the AC light was always on not flashing and it was blowing warm air. Provided the dealership charged the refrigerant to the proper level that can ruled out as far as insufficient refrigerant. This only leaves an intermittent problem in the valves inside the compressor or possibly an intermittent problem with the expansion valve sticking closed. The only way to know for sure is to have a set of air-conditioning gauges on it when the problem occurs to see what's going on with the pressures. There are two air-conditioning lines coming off the compressor one should be hot one should be cold if they're both lukewarm or both cold this indicates a pressure problem. Without having gauges this is the only way you can check this by touching it with your hand. Normal pressure will make the highside line hot to touch and that puts it at about 113 - 120°. The low side line will be wet with moisture and cold to the touch usually about 50 to 60°. These are normal conditions. Anything off of that would indicate a pressure related problem either due to the compressor or something sticking in the expansion valve. The cooling fan should be cycling on when the pressures get high and it's hot outside. It's possible the cooling fan may not be cooling the condenser down causing it to shut the system down. You need to inspect that. The computer controls the on-time of the cooling fan.
So just to clarify you're saying that it is the blower motor that's not working at all and it's intermittent? When the blower motor is not working do any of the heater control panel functions work? Does the display work? When you push the AC button in when the blower motor is not working are you saying that the light in the AC switch is not illuminating at all with the fan on any speed and pushed in? Do you have auto climate controls or manual?
The $18 phone call is not a scam this is what the website puts out there for people who don't want to deal with the back-and-forth typing. Let me know how things go. I work a full-time job and cannot sit in front of my computer and constantly go back and forth so if there are time delays is because we are busy in the shop.