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My son has a 1993 toyota 4x4. It was running fine until a

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My son has a 1993...
My son has a 1993 toyota 4x4. It was running fine until a motor mount broke causing the resonator box to break and the fan blade and schroud. It was running fine and then after a hard rain it wouldn't start again. My husband has changed the distributor cap, wires, spark plugs, fuel pump and IAC. It won't start now. Had it running without problem but once it is turned off if won't start again. Any suggestions.
Submitted: 2 years ago.Category: Toyota
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Answered in 28 minutes by:
5/1/2015
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
Dj
Dj, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 1,910
Experience: ASE Master Tech, 30+ years in automotive repair.
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Hello and thank you for trusting us with your question. I'm DJ.The first thing I would check is the large plastic tube that goes between the air flow meter and the throttle body. This could have been stressed when the mount broke and cause a crack or pulled loose from one end. This isn't the most likely cause, but it only takes a minute to check and it's easy to fix.The engine needs spark, fuel and compression all at the right time to run. Have you tried spraying starter fluid into the engine to see if it will start? This would be a good test because it would eliminate the fuel system.Have you got hot blue spark? We need to find out.Does the engine sound like it's cranking normally when the starter is engaged? I can understand why you replaced the distributor cap, wires and spark plugs. What was the reason for replacing the fuel pump.Please let me know on these things and it will help to narrow down the search. DJ
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I was mistaken the IAC was not changed, it is the VAF meter that was changed. We did not use starter fluid, but did verify fuel to the fuel rail. The large plastic tube was not on the truck when the problem began. The fuel pump was changed from the original symptoms.We have not checked for a hot blue spark.The engine does sound like it is cranking normally when the starter is engaged.
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
Fuel to the rail is a good start, but it doesn't prove that the injectors are opening and sending fuel into the engine. The best way to find out if is to use starting fluid. Can you check to make certain that there isn't a negative battery connection that was missed with the motor mount was changed? We need to begin to eliminate some of the things that could be causing it to not run. I don't want you to waste any more money tossing parts at it. We can diagnose exactly what's wrong but we need to find if the problem is spark or fuel related.So please try some starter fluid, and check to see if it's got good spark. I use a Phillips screwdriver, stick it in the plug wire and hold it about 1/4" away from something metal on the motor. Don't touch anything on the truck with your body or you could get a shock. Then have somebody crank it over and let's see if it's got a blue snappy spark.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
tried starting fluid no start, spark not as blue as I would like it. Cleaned inside of coil really corroded only a couple months old. Tachometer jumps all over the place from time to time then everything levels out and it runs perfect. currently running additional ground wire from engine to frame and from cab to frame. about to loose my mind. it is definitely an intermittent problem. My name is ***** ***** were communicating with my wife earlier and she was relaying the information to me. Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
So it sounds like we have an ignition issue.If you've got a volt meter, we need to check the black-red that goes to the coil. It should have 12 volts or battery voltage with the engine cranking.There should be a gap between the signal rotor and the pickup coil in the distributor. Gap should be 0.008" to 0.016".There's 4 wires that come out of the distributor. They are arranged like this:G1.....NEG2.....G-This is with the lock tab on the bottom.The resistance should be 205 to 255 ohms when you test between ((G1 and G-)) ((G2 and G-)) ((NE and G-))If it's out of this range the distributor pickup is bad and needs to be replaced.All of the corrosion has to be cleaned out of the coil and the coil wire and the coil tower (the plastic part like a nipple) has to be clean.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
The 4 wires out of the distributor are basically sealed in place, the plug was broken and removed I can attempt to try and measure at the back of each wire. the black - red wire is this to ground?
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
The black and red wire has 12 volts with the key in the RUN position.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
ok going check right now
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
12.77vdc blk-red to ground
12.92 battery voltage
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
OK, now we're going to have to figure out a way to measure the pickup coil on the distributor.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Can you explain pickup coil to me??
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
the 4 wires on the distributor are in a straight line
starting at the cab of truck
1 -green
2 - black
3 - red
4 - white
ending at front of truckI think i might be able to measure the resistance
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Started truck, ran really rough the leveled out. Drove down highway for about 6 - 8 miles at various speeds and stop start driving truck ran and idled perfect. Turned down my street to come home and truck died and backfired. Tried starting no luck tried again backfired again started and ran perfectly after that
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
If this was strictly an ignition problem, it wouldn't backfire. When it backfires through the intake it's because the engine is lean or the timing is way off. Let's put a jumper between FP and B+ in the diagnosis connector. The diagnosis box is right next to the fuse box. Under the lid of the box is a chart that shows what each of the terminals is. Use a paper clip bent into a U shape. The terminals are shaped like this.... O_O and the paper clip will fit right into one of the O's. This will bypass several circuits and narrow down the search. Drive the truck and let's see what happens. On the distributor, white is NE. Green is G-. Red is G1 and black is G2.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
OK bad news, I located the diagnosis box, no cover on it and no layout in or on the fuse box lid. Trying to run down a schematic I have for the truck. Would the truck idle and run so smooth with timing off?
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
I tried attaching a file with a picture of the diagnosis connector. This is brand new software for JA so please let me know if it works.If it doesn't work, try this link. http://www.justanswer.com/toyota/5xa4x-toyota-t-100-pickup-97-t100-6cyl-auto-4-wd-the.html
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
Unfortunately the link didn't work. I found this. Is this the two pins that I need to jumper?
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
That's it!
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
OK so if I jumper it what next? do I try to start it?
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
Start it and drive it. The jumper bypasses most of the stuff in the picture and powers the fuel pump. Let's see how it runs.
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Customer reply replied 2 years ago
tried to start without jumper did not start, jumpered still did not start, checked fire from the coil wire had good fire, still no start??
I'm at a lost
Customer reply replied 2 years ago
I could definitely hear the fuel pump running when it was jumpered
Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
I'm running out of ideas plus I'm logging off for the night so I'm going to put your question back into the expert pool. Please don't respond or reply to this message or it will lock up your question until tomorrow.
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Toyota Mechanic: Dj, ASE Certified Technician replied 2 years ago
The temperature sensor is made with thermal wax. When it heats up, it expands. This changes the resistance which in turn, changes the reading on the gauge.
Whenever the engine overheats, there's a chance that the sender is damaged. So before you do anything else, check the real temperature of the engine.
I use an infrared thermometer. Wonderful tool. They're about $30 at Harbor Freight. Dozens of uses.
If the sender is just reading too high, you can put a resistor inline if there's a Radio Shack still open in your area. It's about $2 and some soldering and taping.
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Dj
Dj
Dj, ASE Certified Technician
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