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Matt, Mechanical Engineer
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 21873
Experience:  BEng, Repaired my own cars and others for 20 years, worked in Formula 1 for 10 years
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Toyota camry: i have an 2002 toyota camry xle.about

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i have an 2002 toyota camry xle.about idle speed is low at 500 rpm(between the 1 and zero) for the last 3 1/2 years my car would stall while driving . this would happen maybe once or twice a year.lately it seems to be happening more frequently.each time i would add gas or fuel injector cleaner and the car would start up stalled on friday so i had to get it checked out my family and i are now scared My check engine light has been on for all this time.I went to autozone on sat june 15th and got a free code scanning. I got so many codes.the 1,3,4,5,6 cylinders were misfiring.coolant thermostat temperature below thermostat related temperature.catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2. evaporative emission control system leak detected, small leak. Ibrought the car in for service and the mechanic changed the sparkplugs cleaned throttle body said he checked oxygen sensors dont know if hes lying. the throttle body was filled with so much carbon.he said he checked egr vave.i picked up car and the idle was around 1100rpm idle. I got on the highway and 15 miles later i got off highway to come back home and the car stalled at the red light.usually when im driving 70 miles an hour the rpm is at 3000rom.after the repairs it was around 2700rpm.the check engine light is on as well as the trac off and vsc lights. on another subject those vsc and trac off light came on and the brake pedal went to the floor.i added brake fluid and it helped the brake pressure. the brake fluid wasnt low. the mechanic showed me the rear brake caliper locked up.and changed the rotors.


On any car if you get a check engine light or other fault light this typically means one or more of the sensors has failed or has a faulty connection.

The ECU senses this and may put the car into 'limp home' mode which typically limits the revs and the amount of power available. Usually the car is safe to drive for a short distance as the mode is intended is intended to get you home without incurring any engine damage

The quickest route to repair is to have the car plugged into a diagnostic machine which will read off the fault code stored in the ECU (providing the light is still on at this point) and indicate which sensor has failed or whether the fault is more serious.

You can do a very rough and ready check yourself by unplugging sensors one at a time and seeing if any of them change the driving condition which would indicate the most recently unplugged sensor is the faulty one. This method is not foolproof though and reading a fault code off is the better method.

so let me know what fault code you get

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