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Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 14422
Experience:  Toyota Master Diagnostic
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1994 Camry LE: 4dr..sedan..2200 4 cyl that..catalytic converters

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I recently bought a 1994 Camry LE 4dr sedan, 2200 4 cyl that did not run. I replaced both catalytic converters. The first was deteriorated and the second was plugged up from the first converter's deteriorated material. It ran great. I drove it one day and saw coolant underneath. The water pump was leaking. I drove it carefully home but it stopped on the road. When towed home I found the water pump bearings were bad and the timing belt jumped, (but was still good). I replaced the water pump, timing belt, resealed the oil pump, crankshaft seal, camshaft seal, and valve cover gasket. It was running great again. I drove it for several days and gave it to my daughter. Quite often she calls me with a 'no start' condition and when I arrive I start it right up. This has happened several times but now it won't start for me. I checked for ignition spark,(good) fuel pressure at filter outlet, (about 70 lbs, engine not running), #4 injector, only checked one, (about 4 ohms) TPS is not in specs and needs replacing but I don't know if that would make it not start at all. When it ran, it ran really nice. The car has just over 160,000 miles. The car has new battery, starter, and fuel pump. The only other problem with the car is the front radio speakers don't work, (speakers and radio are good).

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The throttle position sensor will not keep this from starting. As part you have from the end of the plug wire will he jump at least 3/8 of an inch thick good ground and is a bright blue?

Do you still have a compression?

When the engine is cranking over does it sound like it's cranking at a normal rate or does appear unusually fast?

Do you have any engine codes set in the computer or do you not to check for them? When the key is in the on position does the check engine light illuminate?


Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Car was running so good I didn't check the compression. It seems to crank pretty normal, and my Haynes manual doesn't have the diagnostic codes listed. I don't have a Toyota service manual here. The car is at my daughter's house so I will have to go over and check it tomorrow.
This is the old-style diagnostic system. There is a diagnostic check connector box under the hood on the passenger side by the strut tower. If you pop the lid open on this box and use the jumper wire to jump from TE1 to E1. Inside the lid will identify the correct pin locations. Then turn ignition key on and monitor the flashes of the check engine light. For example a code 12 would be one flash then a slight pause then to flashes. If there is a second code it will follow than the system will repeat itself. Let me know if there any codes. I will follow-up with you tomorrow evening.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Hello, I went to the car today and checked the compresstion. #1-180, #2-120, #3-150, #4-180. I then checked the codes. They are 12, 13, 14, 52 (not sure if this is 52 or 5 and 2). I plugged a noid light into #4 and it flashes once or twice and then nothing. While I was trying to start (with noid light attached) it tried to start but only ran for about 1 second and then stopped. I hope this helps. Thanks, Russell
Code 12 and 13 are signal malfunctions for the pickup coils in the distributor. If you own test the G pickup coil it should be 185 to 275 ohms when it is cold. These are the bottom to pins in the four pin electrical connector. The top two pins are for NE and the resistance of those should be 372 - 550 ohms. If these two signals are screwed up you could set code 14 which is an IGT or IGF igniter malfunction. This can only be accurately tested with an oscilloscope. Check the connectors to the distributor. The code 52 is for knock sensor this will not cause the vehicle to not start. The first three codes are why you're not getting spark or the injector pulse. The computer is shutting the system down because it doesn't read the signals correctly from the distributor. There is an outside chance the igniter could be bad but you need to start with inspecting the distributor.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Thanks, XXXXX XXXXX check that tomorrow and let you know what I find. Are you here every night? I will get back to you and wait for your reply? Thanks Russell
I am on most evenings 8 PM to 11 PM central standard time. Let me know you find.

Customer: replied 6 years ago.
Hello, I checked the pickup coils and found them to be out of spec. I removed the distributor and brought it home with me and when checking it again here, it checked OK. I bought a new distributor and installed it this afternoon. The plug wires were the original and #3 broke when I checked compression so I replaced them as well. The car started and runs good again now. Thanks for all your help. It is appreciated.
I worked for Southeast Toyota LLC for 25 years, 5/84 - 4/09, but, my job was to install accessories on new vehicles before shipping to dealers, (no diagnostics there). I have been out of work since 4/09.
If I add a little to my account balance (I can't do much for now) will it go to you or just sit in balance? I would like to give you a little more than the $15.00 that is in there. If so I'll add another $5.00 to balance.
I'm glad to see that you found the problem and things are running well now. Is a good feeling to be able to save yourself some money. Hope you find a job soon things will turn around. When you click the accept button they will debit your account and I get paid. If you choose to leave the bonus feel free to do that there should be an option to do that once you accept. have a blessed evening.

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