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Skyvisions, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Toyota
Satisfied Customers: 14461
Experience:  Toyota Master Diagnostic
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1996 Toyota Camry: the drivers side switch..window motor..manually

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The passenger side window on my 1996 Toyota Camry will go down but it won't come back up. (It doesn't respond to the driver's side switch, but it will lower using the passenger side switch.) How can I tell if the problem is the window motor or the switch, and is there a way I can manually raised the window until I can get it fixed?




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Please clarify. This is the passenger front window and it will only go down if you use the passenger front window switch? Does either switch allow you to bring the window back up or does either switch with the window down can you please be very specific as to which window and what each switch will or will not do to operate that window. This system is a little complex to diagnose but can be made simpler with the right description. Do you have a 12 V test light or a volt meter and an average knowledge of how to use them?




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Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Thanks for following up. The window in question is the front passenger side. It does not respond at all to the driver side switch. I can lower the window with the passenger side switch but I cannot raise it. Right now the window is about half way down. I'm afraid to lower it any further. I'd like to get the window back up so the rain won't come in.
(I've also noticed that the left rear passenger window does not respond to the driver's switch.)
I have a simple circuit tester and an average knowledge of how to use it.

Your options at this point are to try and remove the door panel and disconnect the glass from the window regulator and force the window up with a block of wood. There are two common problems that cause this without getting into a lot of electrical diagnosis at this point. The drivers master switch is known to go bad water gets into the switching corrodes the contacts. Even when though you are using the passenger switch the current flow goes through the contacts in the master switch in the driver's door. Before you get into the master switch the other more common issue is the wires break inside the boot that goes between the door and the body. This is very easy to check, well relatively speaking depending on your skill levels. If you remove the left plastic kick panel on the driver side there are two electoral connectors. Push down on the lock tab and remove the male connector from the female connector. Reach between the door jamb and pull the rubber boot and feed the harness out through the body so that you can undertape the rubber boot and push back the boot to check the wires. You will probably find two or three of these wires broken. Let me know what you find and we can go from there. If the wires are broken you will need to soldier them retap them and seal up the boot.



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