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2006 subaru forester. The clutch is not fully disengaging. I…

2006 subaru forester....

2006 subaru forester. The clutch is not fully disengaging.

Mechanic's Assistant: Has the clutch been slipping? Are you having any trouble shifting?

I installed a rebuilt long block in April and changed the clutch plate at that time. it ran fine up until teo weeks ago. It will shift fine while stopped, but once on the road it wont disengage enough to shift from 2 to 3rd without grinding. Then coming to a stop in 2nd the car stalls as if the clutch were not pressed. I pulled the engine yesterday and the clutch plate looked fine except one spring appeared to be shined up a bit. I did not remove the clutch just looked at it through the bottom.

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your Forester yourself? What have you tried so far?

I started by bleeding the system. when that didn't do anything I pulled the engine and inspected and changed the through out bearing. when that didn't work I replaced the master cylender. when that didn't work I ajusted the clutch push rod. Now I am out of options except possibly the slave cylinder.

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Answered in 1 hour by:
1/21/2018
Dan
Dan, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Subaru
Satisfied Customers: 2,031
Experience: Dealer Auto Technician
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Hello my name is***** am an ASE Master Technician and I am glad to help you. I am reviewing your question now, and will reply shortly.

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Was the pressure plate replaced?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
if that is the housing around the clutch plate, yes. I did not have the flywheel surfaced.

Is the clutch pedal adjusted properly?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
the new master cylindar was very similar to the old one. I tried it at that adjustment then tightened the nut about 5 turns (3/16"?) to see if that would helo. it helped a little but still grinds going from 2nd to 3rd. I did not measure the pedal.

Are you sure the problem is with the clutch and not the transmission?

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
No i am not. The tranny has about 160,000 miles and I do not think it has been worked on. I touched the clutch so I was assuming I did something.

Your synchros in the transmission could be the problem.

Dan
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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
that is what it feels like. I do not know anything about the synchros, but its when the car is moving that the shifting issues appear to be much worse. is there something that I can check/do to start investigating the snychros as the issue?

The transmission has to be removed and torn down to replace them.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
My question was worded poorly. Is there anything I can do to confirm that it is transmission related and not the clutch? To save money, can I pull the transmission and take it to a shop to have it rebuilt?

A sign is grinding between gears when shifting. Yes you can pull the transmission and have it rebuilt or search for a used trans with low miles.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
would the synchro issue also stop you from shifting between gears? IE, I back it out of the driveway, shift into 1st and start out up a slight hill. it is very reluctant to shift into 2nd, then refuses to shift into 3rd. in a parking lot it will shift between all gears, but always grinds between 2 n 3 and when down shifting.

it would cause grinding when shifting between gears when the vehicle is moving.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
i understand that and it does explain the 3rd gear grinding, but does it explain the other shifting issues? could some issue with the clutch also explain the grinding issue. I am just trying to understand if maybe the work I did was wrong and I can fix it, or if it was just dumb luck that the tranny issues are unrelated to clutch job and just dumb luck that it happened 5 months later.

Yes it could also be related to the clutch but this is hard to diagnose without driving it. You should be able to feel if the clutch is not disengaging. It would stall when coming to a stop.

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Customer reply replied 4 months ago
it is not every time, but the clutch does not always completely disengage. it will stall in 2nd gear at a stop (with the pedal engaged) and you can feel that by trying to shift out of 2nd (refuses). This is speratic though. in the parking lot it would run up/down through the gears (up to 4th) but not smoothly and almost always grinds going into 3rd. I am thinking I must have done the clutch replacement correctly or problems would have shown much earlier (right away). The clutch appeared to have wear surface on both faces so it didn't explode (the one spring on the plate that appeared shined concerns me) the slave cyl looks to operate correctly and the master cyl is new. In your opinion, does this take the clutch out and point to the transmission. or could there be a clutch issue and I should take the engine back out and pull the pressure plate and clutch to inspect? Does it sound like I need to take it to a transmission shop to have someone else inspect? just trying to limit the costs and if its just a wrench turning project, I can do it. If its in the tranny, I will need a rebuilt or take it to someone.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Dan, thank you for the two emails. I am at the vet, but I will send you an update after I change the slave cylinder. I will check the pedal clearances and the stroke of the slave cylinder push rod.
Customer reply replied 4 months ago
Dan, The slave cyliner did not change anything. I will pull the engine next weekend and check the fork and clutch plate. Thanks for your help and if you think of any great insights this week, let me know.

Ok make sure the clutch fork did not come off of the pivot ball.

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