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Are you able to diagnosis a problem with a curtis motor

controller? Specifically model 1268-5506....
Are you able to diagnosis a problem with a curtis motor controller? Specifically model 1268-5506.
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Answered in 1 hour by:
1/13/2018
Curtis B.
Curtis B., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 31,874
Experience: have worked on and around most engine models for 35 yrs./Polaris ATV expert
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Welcome to JUST ANSWER small engines, let me try to help you !! I don't know it all, but maybe together we can get you a satisfactory answer!

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What is the problem? Here is manual and has trouble shooting at page #47

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Thank you I do have the manual. My problem is my old motor failed in my Club Car DS IQ. I replaced it with an AMD 7714 and put in a Curtis 1268-5506 controller (which is supposed to be specific to that motor). I have upgraded the wiring to 4g and added the heavy duty solenoid as required. Since I installed the controller I only get the throttle fault (1,2 code) and the cart won't move. I replaced the MCOR 4 and have the same problem. I can find no wires shorted or even skinned. Ohms for the wires involved with the MCOR measure 0.5 or less though the MCOR itself measures about 120 ohm. I have checked three different MCOR and they all show the same ohms.
What else am I missing?

48 volt cart? Do you have 48 volts to both sides of the solenoid? Does the solenoid close when pedal is pressed? is MCOR sending a signal to the controller?

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
It is 48 and I do have voltage across the solenoid. When you hit the throttle the solenoid engages and I do have an OEM Curtis 1313-4331 scanner. The scanner shows 0-100 throttle response as you move the pedal.

You have a new motor, could motor be working, but the motor spline to transmission not installed? the motor is almost silent.

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Are you getting voltage to the field terminals of the motor from the controller?

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
I bypassed the controller to do a slow speed test of the motor. It spun just fine. There is no 48v output from the controller on the M connector point despite having 48v in from the solenoid.

So you are saying the controller is bad!

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
I don't believe so. I'm wondering if it is a parameters or programming issue
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
The speed sensor tests good as well

See the troubleshooting guide and run the controller test shown.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Which part are you specifically referring to? If you are speaking of page 46 I don't know what parameters are important to check in the monitor page. (step 3)

No the simple test is shown in the Carts Unlimited guide.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Can you send me to the page please?
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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Okay...I showed 0 volts until I moved the throttle enough to engage the solenoid. I then registered 48V plus and it slowly went to 0 volts

By that, you have the problem in the high amperage side of the circuit. Cables, connections, f/r switch or motor.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Alright. I'll test those per the same page you sent me and get back to you shortly if that's alright.

OK>

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You put on new cables, don't overlook that one cable may have a bad connection!

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Okay.....I have 26 plus volts at the forward/reverse switch power lead. When I put it in forward I get the same voltage on its respective lead and the same for reverse. I have good continuity on all my cables and no unwanted continuity at the motor.

Why is there not 48 volts to the f/r switch??

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
I'm not sure. The scanner shows it is picking up the forward and reverse switches, as it shows when I flip positions one switch turns off and the other on. Does it need 48 or is it a signal wire?
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Disregard last. I originally used a mid-stream battery as ground. Picked up a better ground point (the b-) amd I now have full battery voltage (51v +)

I don't think the controller needs programming, but it is not sending voltage to the field terminals of the drive motor. So drive motor does not start.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
When I hit the throttle I get full battery power to both A1 and A2 at the motor. How many volts and when should I have power at F1 and/or F2

A1 and A 2 should always have battery pack voltage, the Field terminals are the input from the controller, to vary speed, so voltage varys.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Okay so they should rise and fall linearly with pedal input?
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
When I hit the throttle I have 88.8v on f1 and 9.8v on f2. It doesn't seem to vary though
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
now...its giving me a speed sensor fault...but I changed it out and get the same thing

What happens if the speed sensor is unplugged?

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
No change.

When you tested the motor voltage and came up with 88 volts, was that forward and reverse reading?

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Reverse F1 is 9.45v and F2 is 62.2v

Wher is this high voltage coming from, the controller? I can't say I have ever seen where battery increases over the battery pack voltage.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Oh wow...my bad. Those are all milivolt readings. Sorry...its getting late. So basically 0 volts
Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Just for reference ...I'm reading B- to F1 or F2

Maybe you want t to continue tomorrow.

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Customer reply replied 7 months ago
Is Tuesday okay....this is a work cart and I'm off until then

Sure, I'm retired and will be here.

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I see the question is still open, did you see my response?

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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Hey there Sorry I haven't gotten back to you. We have been crazy busy here. So basically where we left off is....we have battery pack voltage to the motor over A1/A2 but nothing over F1/F2 when the throttle is engaged. The throttle (MCOR4) is functioning appropriately as is the F/R switch and speed sensor. All have been tested and/or replaced with no change in the problem (which is no motion when throttle applied and 1,2 code throttle fault). The controller seems to be where the problem lies. I have a Curtis scanner which confirms everything I have stated above. I'm fairly certain the controller has a parameter mismatch issue of some sort. The motor is item 7144 on Buggies Unlimited and the controller is item 988. Both are brand new. Do you happen to have a list of parameters I could check?

O, I do not, but if no voltage to the F1 abd F2 , it is not going to drive. You have no output from the controller? If none, where did you get the controller, Buggys Unlimited?Give them a call, sounds like the new controller is bad!

Curtis B.
Curtis B., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 31,874
Experience: have worked on and around most engine models for 35 yrs./Polaris ATV expert
Verified
Curtis B. and 87 other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 6 months ago
Okay I will check back with them. Thank you for your help walking me through the rest of the cart.
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