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I have a onan emerald plus 5000 with a no spark situation…

I have a onan...

I have a onan emerald plus 5000 with a no spark situation have had no problems, ran perfect a week ago now wont start

Mechanic's Assistant: Do you have fuel in the tank? If so, is the shut-off valve open and the fuel clean?

Engine is getting fuel oil level is good fuel is fresh new plugs and control board

Mechanic's Assistant: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

Yes

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else we should know to help you best?

Isolated remote switch, no change

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Answered in 1 minute by:
11/17/2017
Hank F.
Hank F., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 15,903
Experience: Certified on Onan and Generac generators
Verified

Hello, my name is ***** ***** I am going to assist you with this.

What is the full model number of the genset?

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
5.0 bge fa 26100p

Didn't you open a question the other day, and then close it out as soon as I replied?

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
I did, my credit card company sent me some alert and was holding the charge so I didn't think payment was received so we'll start over

Ah, that stinks.

Here is what you need to do first.

Disconnect the red and black ignition module wires from the terminals of the coil.
Run a 12V jumper to the red wire of the ignition module. Set your meter to VDC and connect the black meter lead to a good ground.
Connect the red meter lead to the black wire coming from the ignition module.
Using a 3/8" Allen wrench in the rotor through bolt located in the center of the right hand side of the set, slowly turn the engine counter clockwise as viewed from the right end. The meter should read 12V for 1/2 revolution and drop to about 1V for the other half revolution. Turn the motor through at least 3 full revolutions.

What happens?
.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
not in work area, currently on computer searching for possible issues

The only things that will keep this unit from having spark are:

No voltage coming from control board

Bad coil

Bad ignition module

Broken ignition rotor

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
I have replaced the control board a test light hooked to ground shows power going to coil when cranking

Then you need to test the ignition module.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
which I assume was the previous info you gave

Yes.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
for clarification what am I looking for if the module is at fault

Maybe. Checking the module will tell us which way we need to go next.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
ok got it, I will perform the test and get back with you with the results. What is the best way to resume this conversation when I'm ready, and thanks for everything so far ,I'm not taking this beast to a shop if I can help it

Just reply to this thread.

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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
Module tested .6 volts and then 0

That means the module is switching on and off, but just not letting full power through.

One more check.

There are 2 main parts to the system – the ignition module and the ignition rotor. You will not need to split the generator from the engine to remove the module or test the rotor, but you will need to split the generator if the rotor is bad and needs to be replaced. I can help you with that if we need to go that far.
First, remove the (2) 5/16” screws that secure the ignition module to the top of the generator housing, being very careful not to drop the screws inside. If they fall in, the generator MUST be pulled to remove them. They will do a lot of damage if the set is started with them inside.
There is a trick to getting the module out. The flywheel has fins on it to move cooling air across the generator. One of these fins is shorter than the others. The engine must be rotated so this shorter fin is at the top of the flywheel. Depending on how your set is mounted, it can be very difficult to see down in there, and I often have to use a small flashlight and inspection mirror.
Once this short fin is at the top of the flywheel, the module can be removed. It is a very tight fit, but it will come out. Pay strict attention to how the wires are routed in relation to the module. If the wires are not reinstalled EXACTLY as they are, either the module will not fit when putting it back in, or the wires will be hanging in the way of the flywheel and will get cut.
Once the module is out, simply disconnect the 2 wires from the coil.
After the module is out, we need to inspect the ignition rotor for damage. The rotor is a long piece of plastic that snaps onto the crankshaft, and has a magnet at each end. The magnets are what open and close the contacts in the module.
Looking down into the hole, turn the engine so one of the ‘arms’ of the module is straight up. Stick your finger down into the hole, and press sideways (rotational) with about the same amount of pressure you would need to slide an empty coffee cup across a table. Turn the engine 180 degrees and test the other arm in the same manner.
The arms should not move. If they do, the rotor is cracked and must be replaced.
If the rotor is OK, just change the ignition module.

Hank F.
Hank F., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 15,903
Experience: Certified on Onan and Generac generators
Verified
Hank F. and 87 other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 8 months ago
Since the is only 3 inches of clearence on top of the unit I think I'll turn it over to one who has done it a few times even with a mirror it's hard to see. Thank you for all your help, I learned some things and will not hesitate to use this severe again
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