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My Generac Model 004583-0 Generator is blowing the 10 amp…

Customer Question
My Generac Model 004583-0...

My Generac Model 004583-0 Generator is blowing the 10 amp fuse.

Mechanic's Assistant: What's the make and model of the generator? And can you guesstimate how old it is?

Generac Model 004583-0. 10 years old.

Mechanic's Assistant: Do you plan on doing the work yourself?

Yes

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else we should know to help you best?

There was a carburetor fire and i had to splice all the wires that run to the start/run/stop switch and the idle controller.

Submitted: 11 months ago.Category: Small Engine
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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
Battery has been tested and checks out. Generator starts fine, runs 15-20 seconds, then blows the 10 amp fuse in the back of the control panel.Friend gave me this generator when he got a new one. It had been modified when new to use propane as well as gasoline. Had been running fine but he let the carb gum up and had a little fire trying to use starter fluid. Melted a few of the wires that run beneath the carb.I replaced the carb and took off all of the propane connections, regulators, etc. All that is left of it is a pair of wires that went to a little square red module of some sort on the propane setup. I left them intact.I spliced into all the wires that run underneath the carb and reconnected. 5 to the start/run/stop/switch. 5 to the idle controller. Pretty hard to mess this up, but it's possible that I reconnected the wires to the wrong sides of the S/R/S switch. There are 2 sets of 3 connections on each side of the switch. One pole has no connection. It is the innermost top. Others have configs of single wire, 2 wires to a single pole or 1 wire split to 2 poles. Should be easy to know if I went the wrong way on them. Otherwise, no idea what could be blowing the fuse.
Answered in 21 hours by:
9/25/2017
Technician: Wayne, Engine Rebuilder replied 11 months ago
Wayne
Wayne, Engine Rebuilder
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 11,341
Experience: many years on egine rebuilding, lawn mower,roto tiller,Truck,and small engines
Verified

Hi I'm Wayne

I will try to help you with this

if it blowing the fuse that fast, I would look for a wire touching ground /metal

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Customer reply replied 11 months ago
What are common triggers for this particular fuse? i.e. what specifically is it protecting.
Customer reply replied 11 months ago
Generators have a lot of wires....
Technician: Wayne, Engine Rebuilder replied 11 months ago

HI

It protect the charging system

brushes and slip rings

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
No loose wires, no grounding. Is it possible that misconfiguring the wires to the start/run/stop switch could short the fuse?
Technician: Wayne, Engine Rebuilder replied 10 months ago

Morning

It sure can ..........

Wayne

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
Ok. As I explained further up, I spliced into all the wires that run underneath the carb and reconnected. 5 to the start/run/stop/switch. 5 to the idle controller. Pretty hard to mess this up, but it's possible that I reconnected the wires to the wrong sides of the S/R/S switch. There are 2 sets of 3 connections on each side of the switch. One pole has no connection. It is the innermost top. Others have configs of single wire, 2 wires to a single pole or 1 wire split to 2 poles.
Should be easy to know if I went the wrong way on them.it is possible that I misaligned wires after splicing those that burned. Can you lead me through troubleshooting this problem, e.g. identify the wires that should be on the first pole of the switch, etc?
Technician: Wayne, Engine Rebuilder replied 10 months ago

HI

I am going to opt-out of this

I do not have diagram with wires color

Sorry I could not help you

Wayne

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Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago
Hank F.
Hank F., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 16,006
Experience: Certified on Onan and Generac generators
Verified

Hello, my name is ***** ***** I am going to assist you with this.

First, every wire in that unit is stenciled with a unique ID number. You may have to trace the wires back a little bit to find the number, but it is stenciled every few inches.

On the back of the start/stop switch, if you are holding it so that the empty terminal is at the top left, call it Pole 1. The one below it, Pole 2. Below it, Pole 3.

The top right would be Pole 4, below it, Pole 5, and lastly, Pole 6.

So Pole 1 is empty.

Pole 2 has a single wire jumping to Pole 4, which has another wire, also. These wires are number 0, and are grounds. You should be able to trace them to a grounding block.

Pole 3 will have a single wire, number 17, which leads to the start contactor relay. It is the 5 pole relay.

Pole 5 has a single wire, number 167, which runs to an 8 circuit terminal strip in the control box.

Pole 6 has 2 wires connected to it, both are numbered 15. One of the 15 wires goes to the start contactor relay (the same relay that wire 17 went to), and the other wire 15 goes to the start/stop relay, which is the 10 Pole "ice cube" relay.

The fuse on this unit has nothing at all to do with the brushes or slip rings. It is there to protect the control board, as well as protecting the battery from exploding if the battery charge circuit fails. It does not protect the battery charge circuit itself.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
THANK YOU, HANK! I don't think the other guy read what I had to say at all. I will follow these as much as I can. Like I said, I had to splice into them so I will have to go back into the harness cover to check for the numbers. I will report back. Just to get ahead, Is it safe to say I'm going to have to remove the control panel? Not sure how to do this,
Customer reply replied 10 months ago
That is, I attempted to take off the front cover, removed hex bolts and rings around breaker resets, but It didn't budge.
Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago
The control panel may stick, but it can be pried off.
But how did you get to the switch if you didn't open the control panel?
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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
I guess what I'm calling the Start Run Stop switch is on the front of the generator. Next to the carb. The thing I push to start it. It has six poles. I got to it when I had the carb off. I didn't remove the red cover.I'm calling the control panel (box?) the thing in the back of the generator where the plugs/breakers are. Am I confusing things? I'm assuming the relays, etc are in the control box. That is what I'm asking about opening to make sure I can see where things lead.Sorry. Still doing hurricane clean up and moving back and forth from chainsawing and generator (which I'm hoping to have ready for the next one!).
Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago
sorry, you are correct. I have so many customers working right now that things sometimes roll together.
If you have enough wire between the switch and control box to be able to see the numbers, you won't need tonopen the control box.
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Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago

Was this what you wanted to know?

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Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago

Hello, was this what you wanted to know?

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
My chief concern is finding what's blowing the fuse. Since these wires were removed and spliced, that's my first suspicion. If there are any other things I should be checking out while I'm digging in to these wires, please let me know. Wasn't able to work on it during the week. Will trace the wires down today.
Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago

The wiring must be verified first. Any other testing would be moot if the wires are not correct.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
Just to be clear. Pole 1 is the top left pole as I am facing the back of the switch (looking at the poles, not the toggle). Yes?
Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago

Yes.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
OK. I was able to identify all wires and wired it the way you said. Fuse blew.
Pulled apart, checked and reassembled. Going to buy more fuses and try again just to be sure.Some notes:-There is no extra wire going to pole 4. Assuming it's piggybacking off this ground for something. Where is it supposed to go?Possible reasons why it's not there: there have been some modifications due to the LP set up I think. I can tell some of the connectors on the back of the switch are pinkish while others are clearish white. Not sure which are original. Suspecting the white ones are.As I wrote earlier, this generator had been converted to dual fuel and had a propane setup on it (which i removed). Hope you are familiar with this conversion.I have no idea what the parts are called, but there is a small red square unit with 3 wires to it in the middle of it all, 2 of which go to the starter (one to the same post the positive battery cable goes to and one to maybe the solenoid?). The third goes into something called a G-LP Valve.This small red square has a warning on it 'DO NOT SHORT TO GROUND'. It also has a tiny button on its back side that would be depressed if it were still in place (it is not - just hanging at present). Is it possible that this tiny button not being depressed is the problem?I can take pictures if you need.
Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago

A picture of that unit would be great.

There are many different types of LP conversions out there - I have no idea which one you have.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
Ok. Sure appreciate your patience.I'm going to run get fuses and take pictures of the LP setup.
Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago

Ok.

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Customer reply replied 10 months ago
Rig shows the whole setup.
2 pics of 'switch' which fits into the slot in switchguzzinta
valve is the valve that has 2 wires coming from it. One goes to switch, one goes to ground on frame.
The 2 wires on the switch go to the starter.
The red to the the hot post on the starter (with what looks like perhaps an inline fuse).
The other Ts into wire #16 I think that goes to a smaller pole on the starter.
switch.jpgswitch.jpgswitch2.jpgswitch2.jpgswitchguzzinta.jpgswitchg...jpgrig.jpgrig.jpgvalve.jpgvalve.jpg
Customer reply replied 10 months ago
Also, I think the fuse blow time is under 10 seconds.
Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago

That switch is some kind of micro switch, but I have no idea what it could be for.

I would remove that switch completely - it may well be the cause of your short.

If you are not planning on running LP, I would remove anything and everything that is not part of the original genset.

Let me know if it is not the problem.

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Technician: Hank F., Technician replied 10 months ago

Did removing the switch take care of it?

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