Hi Corry my name is ***** ***** I am going to try to help you . When you turn the key do you hear a click ? , do you still have lights and power . It sounds like the solenoid is bad , a dead tale sign is the motor will start if you jump the solenoid and do nothing to click when you turn the key
hi --- im trying to find a new solenoid at a parts house . will let you know what happens. corry
Ok , before you take the old one out , disconnect the battery and mark which wires go to each post
john--- I put in a new solenoid and it still would not start corry
john--- is there any kind of adjustment on the clutch rod that goes under engine? I think that the clutch is part of the problem
Do you have power when you turn the key ? , lights etc ? .
yes-- the hour meter comes on but head lights never worked from day one.
Is it even clicking ? . If you put the parking brake on and try to start it will the engine turn over?
Is seems like one of the sensors is preventing it from turning over like the seat sensor etc .
Here is a diagram of your electrical .
you have a seat switch as well as a reverse switch etc . You said originally you already replaced the ignition right ?
yes I replaced the ignition switch and starter solenoid. when I turn the key the only thing that works is hour meter. no click or any other sound. how does one check seat sensors or any other fail safes?
When you sit on the seat it should keep the switch from breaking contact but if it's not working it could be grounding it out from starting. If you jump it from the starter will it stay running ? Also there is a 20 amp or 30 amp fuse near the solenoid , it's a blade fuse .have you checked that ?
NO== I WILL CHECK IT IN THE MORNING THANKS -- CORRY
Ok , and when you jump it from the solenoid does it stay running ?
I CHECKED THE 20 AMP FUSE AND IS OK--- I PULLED THE WIRE CLIP UNDER THE SEAT AND REINSTALLED=NOTHING--- I JUMPED SOLEOLD AND RAN FOR 15 SEC. THEN WOULD STOP-- TRIED 3 MORE TIMES AND SAME THING. WHAT NEXT
Do you have access to a spark tester ? . Without testing it seems like one of the safetys is killing spark , is the tractor in drive or neutral ?
no spark tester--- the mower is in neutral---- can i cut wires under seat and by pass seat sensor? that would tell us if sensor is bad. need to know what color wires to cut.
I wouldn't cut anything . Have you tried putting it in drive to see if it will turn over
I put the clutch in and stepped on drive pedal and nothing. pushed drive pedal only and hit key nothing. going back to the clutch rod is there any adjustment at the end or is it to hit a pad that hit alive wire?
If there was a broken wire you would see it or it would be hanging etc . There's a few more sensors I think , let me check
did you give up? have not heard from you for awhile.
Do you have access to a test light ? We might have to see how far current is running from the battery , did it just start this in the middle of running or when did this symptom start . Also oil level is full right , some engines have a low oil shut off sensor on them
no I do not have a spark tester-- I noticed one day that I had to keep pushing the clutch in further and further before it would not start at all. the oil is fine. this is why I keep asking if there is a adjustment on the clutch rod or a pad that the rod has to hit.
Ok let me see if there's a adjustment , It wouldn't be grounding out a wire but might not be allowing a kill to disable
Here is a link to your drive system
the rods might have a adjustment but if they do the diagrams aren't showing them . Can you look at the rods and tell me if there is any type of nut you can turn to extend it etc ?
I followed the clutch rod and found small rod that goes under a button switch and it was not hitting the button. with a little pushing and pulling I got the switch to work and the motor fired and I mowed the yard . thanks--- corry
Great I'm glad you got it fixed