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I have a Troy-Bilt 42" Super Bronco Model T609 (13AT609G766)

Customer Question
Riding Mower with a B&S...
I have a Troy-Bilt 42" Super Bronco Model T609 (13AT609G766) Riding Mower with a B&S 21.0 HP InTek V-Twin OHV Model 400000(NNN) NNN-NNNN, and Automatic w/Cruise. I've used it for several years, but in the past 3, it apparently started to fry batteries because I've had to replace it every season. Nevertheless, the engine started. Most recently, however, I turn the key and got no response whatsoever. Previously, I'd get a weak indication of power and the motor would start to turn over. This time, I got absolutely no life at all.

Here's what I did:
I removed the key from the ignition. I changed the oil, oil filter, gas filter, air filter, and checked the battery with a battery charger. It was a totally new battery, so I would expect and received a notification on the charger that the battery was fully charged. I also checked the one 20 Amp fuse I could find (although I've found in a schematic that there's another fuse somewhere else), and it was good (not blown). I cleaned debris from everywhere I could get my hand into. I filled the gas tank with fresh, clean gasoline and attempted to start it again. I again got no response.

A day later, I checked the battery with the charger again and temporarily reattached the battery cables. This time, when I attempted to start the mower, I noted that the orange indicator light on the ignition panel by the key slot came on when I turned the key past "Stop," but I still got nothing else from the motor. According to the manual, this should have come on (I'm guessing...) only when the "Reverse Push Button" was activated. When I turned off the key and tried a couple more times, the indicator light stopped coming on and I again got nothing.

I looked at the online documentation and found an electric schematic of the mower. I noticed that there are several components on the mower leading up to the motor. Namely, a solenoid, a starter, an alternator, two 20-amp fuses (still trying to find the second one), the key switch, and a "Systems Indicator Monitor," which I don't see any indication of life on the dashboard, assuming that's what the schematic means by this "monitor."

The battery charger I'm using, a Black and Decker 10/6/2 Amp Smart Battery Charger. I hooked up the old battery to this charger and received a diagnostic code of F02, or "Battery voltage too Low to accept charge." In the past, the batteries would also display an F03, or "Internal Open Cell." In both cases, the manual for the charger says to have the battery serviced or replaced. I chose to replace them, but the mower seems to keep damaging the batteries!

I have not yet traced the wiring on the mower - that's my next step. I'm thinking that maybe it's a bad ignition switch. So, I've drained and removed the fuel tank and am starting to look at the backside of the dashpanel. But I'm still not sure of what I'm looking at or for.

I am wondering whether a frequent frying of batteries is caused by a bad starter, solenoid, alternator or something along those lines. And just maybe the bad component finally gave out instead of just shorting out the battery...?

If this is the case, what is the most likely culpret? And where should I begin in replacing these parts? From what I've found on the B&S and Troy-Bilt sites and in the manuals I have, there's nothing around parts or installation of these components (like solenoid, starter, and alternator).
Submitted: 5 years ago.Category: Small Engine
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Answered in 19 minutes by:
5/17/2012
Technician: Jeremy R., Technician replied 5 years ago
Jeremy R.
Jeremy R., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 9,020
Experience: 15+ years of experience and a business owner.
Verified
Hi, My name isXXXXX you for letting me try and assist you with your problem.
If you were to get a new battery and install it would the mower start up and run?
Even if only for 30 seconds?
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
No. I now have two batteries. The first one seems to be fried (after it actually working a couple of times). The second one -- the one I've tried using now -- is brand new and has only been used to try to start the mower now. Charger says it's fully charged. I've only left it connected to the mower for the duration of my attempts to get it started because I'm of the opinion that it's not the battery, but the other components in the mower. And those other components keep destroying the batteries.
Technician: Jeremy R., Technician replied 5 years ago
Ok I see your point.
If you want to try and jump ahead here. Hook up the good battery, turn the key to ON and jump 12 volts to the starter either by jumping the two posts on the starter relay or using a jumper cable or whatever you need to do to get it to crank over.
If the coils and key switch is good it should start and run.
If it does put a meter on the battery and rev the engine and see if you're getting more than 13.5 volts. If you are your regulator is shot and that will fry everything. That's my suspicion as of right now.
Then back to getting it to start you're going to have to check every interlock switch then the starter relay to see if they are what's stopping you from getting it to start now.
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Ok, thanks for the info. I've not yet gotten a chance to try your suggestions out. I'm confident you've given me good advice. But it won't be until Saturday before I can get to it. And this is the first time I've used this service to get answers. So, once I hit Accept, is it possible to continue the dialog? Or do I have to ask a separate question and take my chances on getting some other expert (with whom I'll have to start all over again)?

Thanks!
Technician: Jeremy R., Technician replied 5 years ago
Yep, this thread stays open to you for ever. Any time you want to follow up make a reply and ill get an email notifying me.
Jeremy R.
Jeremy R., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 9,020
Experience: 15+ years of experience and a business owner.
Verified
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