I am not sure why you opted out James W. He is 100% correct.
You ALways start with checking the battery. A LOAD test is the only way to see if it is good. Even if it is a BRAND NEW battery, It can be bad.
That is the test.. You can test it two different ways.
It is a very strong electro magnet.
So, you can either test everything that I said to test, and if it is none of those, the clutch is bad.
OR, you can bypass all the switches and run jumpers from a STRONG 12V source such as a Car Battery (not running) directly to the clutch + and neg.
You can Hear and See the clutch engage.
If you can not hear it move or see it engage with 12V applied, then it IS bad and needs replaced
And, No one believes that a New battery that is not at least 350 CCA could be the problem.
BUT, we have seen this an average of 3 times per month for 37 years.. I OFTEN is the problem..
In the past, we did not see it so much, because the big box stores did not exist, and you had to buy the batteries at the dealer.
Not saying it is the battery, just saying. Do not discount it. AND do not reply on the existing battery to perform the test.
You also need to check the butt connectors to make sure that you DO have a good connection.
If all else fails, you may end up replacing the Electric clutch or the PTO switch.
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