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I have an Onan HGJAB ran fine for about 5.5 hrs, plugged into…

I have an Onan HGJAB...
I have an Onan HGJAB ran fine for about 5.5 hrs, plugged into AC at campground for 24 hrs, camp had a power outage . . . Generator would not start (no previous issue). . . Starter runs 10-15 seconds then stops with error code 3 then 32 . . . HELP!
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Answered in 1 hour by:
6/28/2010
Hank F.
Hank F., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 15,979
Experience: Certified on Onan and Generac generators
Verified

Code 32 is Low Cranking Speed Sense.

 

Directly above the start switch on the set itself, you will see a plastic block in the side of the generator, with 2 wires on it. This is the brush holder.

Remove the 10mm bolt and pull the brush holder straight out.

With a flashlight, look inside the hole at the 2 metal bands that the brushes ride on.

These are the slip rings, and are part of the rotor.

The rotor on this set is driven by a belt under the set.

While watching the slip rings/rotor, crank the set.

The rotor should start turning at exactly the same time as the engine, should turn as fast as the engine, and should stop at the exact same time as the engine.

Is the rotor turning, is it slipping or turning at a different speed than the engine?

 

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
The slip rings do not appear to be turning

This means your drive belt has broken, or one of the pulleys.

 

The drive system is underneath the set, so the set will need to come out of the coach and be disassembled.

 

This is not an easy job, but if you would like to try it yourself, I can walk you through it.

 

Just let me know.

 

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Does it make sense for the pulley/belt to go after running just fine and with only 400 hrs? Definitely something I can attempt. Since I will be pulling the genset, would it also make sense to do the 450 hr maintenance at the same time?

The belt can go at any time, yes.

I have seen them run for several thousand hours, but I have also seen them fail with less than 50 hours.

 

Yes, I would go ahead and to the scheduled maintenance while you have it out.

 

Hank F.
Hank F., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 15,979
Experience: Certified on Onan and Generac generators
Verified
Hank F. and 87 other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Well I guess the first thing to do is to get Gen-nie out from under my 35' Itasca. While I am intuitive and mechanically inclined I'd prefer to be your hands. Would it be possible to get an overview and then take it a nut/bolt at a time? Anyhow . . . Let's get started . . .

Unfortunately, I can only give you generalizations for the removal. Different manufacturers mount them differently, and there are just too many variations.

 

In a nutshell:

Disconnect the cable from the battery.

Disconnect the cable from the post on the front of the set.

Disconnect the ground cable from the set.

Disconnect and plug the fuel line.

Remove the tail pipe if it is going to be in the way.

Disconnect the remote harness (the 8-pin plug on the left side).

There will be a junction box within 3 feet of the set, with a piece of conduit in it that comes from the set. This conduit is part of the set. Disconnect the 4 wires in the junction box and remove the lock nut for the conduit.

Place a floor jack or hydraulic lift under the center of the set, using a block of wood (2x6 or 2x10) to protect the bottom of the set.

Remove whatever bolts hold the set in and lower it down.

If your set is mounted to the floor of a compartment, you will obviously not need the floor jack. In this case, there will be 4 bolts under the set holding it in.

This set is very heavy, so be careful.

Let me know when you get it out.

 

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Hi Hank - Built a frame from 2x6s and 4x4s on a motorcycle jack. Worked just fine. Added an inline shutoff to the fuel line while I was diconnecting it. The genset is out. What's next?

Ingenuity at it's finest. Ya' gotta love it.

 

What you need to do now is drain the oil -you are going to need to tip the set over, and we do not want the oil draining up into the cylinders.

Once the oil has been drained, turn the set over, or at least tip it on it's side.

The entire bottom is covered by a large plastic cover.

Remove all screws hilding this cover on, and pull the cover off. This will expose the entire drive system.

The pulley that is attached to the crankshaft has a rubber damper, and these things have been failing a lot lately.

I suspect that you will find either the pulley damper broken, or a broken belt.

Check the entire drive system carefully.

Let me know what you find.

Here is a diagram of what you will see.

graphic

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago

Hi Hank - Just a quick update . . . Finally got back to the genset . . . see pics . . . the belt is shredded . . . is there anything I should be concerned about during disassembly . . . and . . . It looks to me (from your diagram that only the cooling blower & back plate and flywheel need to be removed to replace the belt . . . at this point I should also be able to inspect the pulleys . . . So far I need a belt, the boot covering they wires where they leave the genset and go to the transfer box and a pipe to muffler gasket . . . Where can I purchase these and other parts . . . Mark T

 

graphic

 

graphic

graphic

Yuck, that's ugly.

 

Obviously check all the pulleys/bearings.

I would highly suggest you remove the flywheel and inspect the pulley/flywheel coupling. As I noted earlier, I have been seeing quite a few of these failing lately..

 

You can order the parts from any Onan dealer, or from a Cummins/Onan distribution center.

I would suggest the distribution center, as they tend to be slightly cheaper. They will also ship the parts to you.

You can find the one nearest you by going to www.cumminsonan.com/locator and entering your ZIP code.

 

You will need to give them your full model number to get the correct parts.

But if you need any help with part numbers, please let me know.

 

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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
What is the best way to remove the fly wheel . . . ?

First remove both coils.

Then remove the four nuts inset into the flywheel (they hold the flywheel to the pulley).

Hold the flywheel and remove the center bolt.

Use a wheel puller to pull the flywheel off. The 2 bolt holes are threaded for 10mm.

 

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