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I have a YardMachine MTD Tecumseh 13.5OHV riding lawnmower,

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I have done tuneup on...
I have a YardMachine MTD Tecumseh 13.5OHV riding lawnmower, I have done tuneup on the machine and replaced the battery. My problem...I can start the machine but, when I put it in gear or shift it out of neutral it stalls out!? What could be wrong? I've even sprayed the carburetor with cleaner. what can I do now?? I have cleaned the fuel bowl and float, and when it is running it back-fires.
Submitted: 8 years ago.Category: Small Engine
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Answered in 10 minutes by:
6/26/2010
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
Curtis B.
Curtis B., Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 31,847
Experience: have worked on and around most engine models for 35 yrs./Polaris ATV expert
Verified
-Could you explain your situation a little more? does it shut off or just choke down?
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
It shuts off completely!
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
It sounds like one of the safety switches is giving a false signal, shutting off the spark. The neutral switch would be the place to start. Check the connections and and the operation of the switch. Give me the numbers off the mower and maybe I could find the wiring schematic for the unit. Let me know. Thanks.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
When you say it sounds like the safety switch, is that the switch under the seat that keeps the engine from igniting when the seat is unoccupied? Or is that some other safety feature within the motor?
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
It should have a switch on the gear shift for neutral, keeping you from starting it in gear. But it should not kill the engine when you put it in gear. It could be a clutch switch, that you have to have the clutch pushed in before you can start. With the mower numbers I could be sure.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I gave the engine number: OV358EA Warrenty (E) Spec:206940G, engine Family 8TPXS.3582AA Disp: 358 DOM: 08014CB0174 - These are the numbers on the shroud from the engine. Does this help you?
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
No, the engine has nothing to do with the wiring in the mower electrics.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Ok, then what can I do to make it run correctly? is there a method to adjusting the carburetor? Or is the problem in the choke system?
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
If you want to try the carburetor, remove the float bowl and remove the float and needle valve, check to be sure the passage is open from the fuel inlet, then with the needle valve and float clean, reinstall them and the float bowl and give it a try. Adjusting the carburetor will have little effect on it.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I let you know what happens...
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
ok.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
I wasn't able to finish got rained on! I had it running for awhile but it kept back-firing? What do you think i need to do?
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
Backfiring makes me think that one of the valves is not closing completely? Check the valve adjustment.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
Question: where are they located? Are those two rockers at the front of the engine?
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
Yes, two rocker arms under the ohv cover. Should have .008 to .010 in clearance.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
How can I measure the clearence and what can I do if it is in need of adjustment?
Technician: Curtis B., Technician replied 8 years ago
You will need a feeler gage, can be bought at any auto parts store, and most keep a small engine repair manual that can be a big help on working on the small engines. The adjustment is done by loosing a jam nut, adjusting and re tighten and re check.
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Customer reply replied 8 years ago
What else could be the reason for the back-fire. Is that normal to have to adjust the valve rockers, this is a two year old mower?
Technician: Ranwell1, Small Engine Technician replied 8 years ago
Ranwell1
Ranwell1, Small Engine Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 10,347
Experience: I Own a Lawn Mower Sales and service business (37years). Have 2-cycle and 4-cycle certification.
Verified

I just had to jump in here to try to help.

 

There are several things that have been discussed here that I do not agree with.

 

The first thing is that the most likely thing that is causing the problem is the safety switch that is located under the seat. All of the other switches that have anything to do with the engine running or shutting off are connected to this seat switch. If this seat switch is not operating correctly, then every time you move any of the other levers such as the shifter or clutch pedal, the engine will shut off. Check the seat switch and you probably will fix a good part of your problem.

 

The second thing that I disagree with is the valve clearances. The valve clearances cannot be set at .008" to .010" . These are the settings for a normal L-head engine. The valves clearances for overhead valve engines is usually between .004" to .005" between the valve stems and the rocker arms when the valves are completely closed.. If the Valves are set too wide, the compression release will not operate correctly and you will have problems.

 

The valves should be re-adjusted at least every two years....and sometimes, depending on the use and the engine, it should be checked every year. That is one of the characteristics of the overhead valve engines.

 

The backfiring can be caused by several different things.

 

The valves may be set wrong.

 

The flywheel key may have been sheared causing the engine to be out of time.

 

THe electronic ignition may be starting to go bad and may need to be replaced.

 

The electronic afterfire fuel solenoid that is on the bottom of the carburetor may not be operating correctly.

 

You may have water in the gas or the carburetor may be partially restricted and need to be cleaned and rebuilt.

 

Here is my comprehensive carburetor and fuel answer that may give you some ideas.

 

As engines sit or get older, fuel that is left in the carburetor can turn to gum and varnish and cause this and other problems. Also, any gasoline that was left in a gas can for a period of more than 30 days must be discarded because it also has begun to turn to varnish.

Today's gasoline's contain MTBE and alcohol. (Ethanol) They turn to "Junk and garbage" very quickly. Alcohol is partially water (H2O). And they call it "Oxygenated fuels! It is the oxygen that breaks down the organic compounds in the fuel and turns the gas to "Garbage" (Gum and varnish) The fuels we had just a few years ago had no alcohol in it and would store for longer periods of time before going stale... and fuel stabilizers do almost nothing to prevent the fuel from going bad with the changes in today's fuels.

Do not buy gas from the "Discount" Stations. The discount stations get a reduced price on gas because they may be buying fuel that is nearly 30 days old already. You may be getting fuel that's nearly stale right from the pump when buying from a discount station. Purchase your fuel from the well-known stations such as Shell, BP, Sonoco, Phillips 66 etc.

More than 70% of all of our repairs in our lawn mower business are due to this same issue. You most likely have dirt, gum, varnish...etc in your carburetor plugging up the small passageways and jets in the carburetor.

The carburetor must be removed from the engine. Clean all parts with carburetor cleaner and blow out all the small holes and passageways with compressed air. Remove all of the non-metallic parts since the carburetor cleaner will cause them to be disfigured decompose and plug the carburetor as time goes on.

Wash the carburetor cleaner off of the metal parts by washing them in warm, soapy water then rinsing with clean water. Dry them by blowing it off with compressed air. Make sure that all the passageways are blown dry before reassembling.

Reassemble using a NEW carburetor rebuild kit.

DO NOT TRY TO REASSEMBLE WITHOUT USING A COMPLTE CARBURETOR KIT! You will just end up having to do the job again.

ALWAYS clean the fuel tank and replace the fuel line when doing this repair or you may have to do it all over again. The inside of the fuel line disintegrates over time and these small pieces of rubber will plug up the carburetor too. Dirt and water from a dirty fuel tank will also plug up the carburetor. Find the Model, type and serial or code numbers off of the engine and take them to your local dealer to get the carburetor repair kit.

If you do the work yourself, take pictures or at least make a drawing of where all the linkages, gaskets, and component parts go. Correct reassembly is critical.

If the carburetor still doesn't work correctly, you may have to take it to someone who has an "Ultra-sonic" cleaning machine. This machine uses carb cleaner and ultrasonic vibrations to get the very small passageways clean when traditional methods fail.

If you don't feel comfortable with this kind of repair I would suggest sending it to a reputable shop.

Feel free to contact me here at this question anytime ...even after you hit the "ACCEPT" button ...and I will try to help further.

 

Please click "ACCEPT" or I won't get paid.

You may also consider sending a bonus if I have been helpful, Please leave POSITIVE feedback for me as this is how I'm rated. Remember, a neutral is nearly as bad as a negative. If not satisfied, contact me and I will make it right. Thanks

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