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I have a Sears traactor moodel 917.270821. /the starter gear

I have a Sears traactor...
I have a Sears traactor moodelNNN-NN-NNNN /the starter gear #280104 is stripped. We disasembled the engine down to the starter but cannot see how to get the gear off. The flywheel prevents removal of the gear and replacement of a new gear. What is your solution please.
My name is Bob.
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Answered in 3 minutes by:
4/19/2010
Rick
Rick, Factory Authorized Trainer
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 8,063
Experience: Outdoor Power Equipment technical trainer since 1990, covering eight states.
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Hi Bob,

 

You got two options: either remove the electric starter, do the repair, then replace the start motor, or you can take off the flywheel. Just not enough room to work without doing one or the other.

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Are there any diagrams for either of your suggestions?

Which would be less troublesome?

Do I need to replace the druve starter or can I just replace the stripped gear and retainer ring?

Here's a manual for your machine and page 54 shows the starter components. I usually replace reference 510 (497606) since it replaces all the suspect parts, but if nothing else is damaged, the gear alone should be fine.

 

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/98080210.pdf

 

On most Briggs engines I prefer taking the starter motor off. The exception to that on some V-Twin engines one starter mounting bolt is almost impossible to get to without the specialized Briggs tool. Since yours is an opposed twin, you should be able to get the starter off easier than removing the flywheel. That also means you don't have to torque the flywheel back down.

 

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

OK,

But again, is there any diagram indicating how to go about removing the starter?

I am pretty much a novice at engine repair even tho I just turned 77.

There apear to be at least 2 screws/bolts marginally assesible from the bottom of the starter. Are there other screws to remove?

Here's a picture of your starter. If you look at the large mounting boss on the left of the picture, you remove the two bolts going through the holes in the lower left.

 

graphic

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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

It is late now so I will try in the morning to work on it. I will let you know how things work out. Thank you for now.

Bob

Good deal. Keep me posted tomorrow. Have a great evening.
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Customer reply replied 7 years ago

Good Morning, even though it is almost noon here. Had some business to take care of this morning.

I looked at the moter and one of the bolts shown in the diagaram is under the fluwheel. So, it seems to me that removal of the flywheel is the only way to go unless you or your team know of another route.

If the flywheel needs to be removed, are any special tools required? What is the best way to hold the flywheel steady while loolening the nut? What does it need to be torqued to?

Any and all help will be helpful.

Customer reply replied 7 years ago

I do not see and answwer to my last question.

Customer reply replied 7 years ago

I don't know if I inadvertantly delated one of your answers. I will repete my last question.

 

I looked at the engine and one of the bolts shown in the diagram you sent of the starter is under the flywheel.

 

So, if the flywheel needs to be removed, are there any special tools required?

 

What is the best way to hold the flywheel steady while loosening the nut?

 

On reassembly what does the net need to be touqued to?

Hi Bob,

 

Sorry. Extremely busy morning out west. Here's a really good guide on removing flywheels.

 

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/flywheel_removal.asp

 

A strap wrench is the best way to hold the flywheel. Or you can use some clean start cord or small rope in the spark plug hole as a piston stop. You can block the flywheel, but be very cautious not to break a cooling fin. That's a very pricy oops. I recommend the rope trick if you do not have a strap wrench.

 

A puller is highly recommended to avoid damaging the flywheel. Although you can use the flywheel nut to protect the threads and use a hammer while prying up under the flywheel as a knockoff (be very careful not to pry against the coil) if you are very careful.

 

When replacing the nut, make sure the key is in perfect shape and the the slots on the flywheel and crank are perfectly aligned to one another. The torque spec is 145 ft. lb.



Edited by Rick on 4/20/2010 at 5:16 PM EST
Rick
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Experience: Outdoor Power Equipment technical trainer since 1990, covering eight states.
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