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Chris Huber
Chris Huber, Small Engine Technician
Category: Small Engine
Satisfied Customers: 625
Experience:  20 years experience. Briggs and Stratton Master Service Technician. Dealer for most engine lines.
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I have a very old Toro snowblower that I inherited from my

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I have a very old Toro snowblower that I inherited from my grandfather. Model No. 3521. I have no idea how old it is. It has 3 forward speeds. Its bright red & built like a tank. I have been using it continuously for about 7 years now. It has never given me a problem until now. I have used it twice this year already. Tonight, when I started it up, the auguer doesn't turn. It has 2 auger blades seperated by a driveshaft assembly I think? One side turns freely and the other side is stuck. What happened and can I repair it? Or, do I have to take it in someplace? Please help!
Is there a silver tag with a model and serial number on the frame anywhere? Sometimes a sticker under the operators control, I can't get that model number to come up. we just had a few of those Toro tanks come through the shop, so I'm fairly certain I know which machine you mean, but I would like to get a picture of it if it is still available. Basically, the augers are keyed to the shaft with shear pins so if something Stops the auger from turning, key will shear instead of doing damage to the gearbox. If you need to remove the gearbox it is a very demanding procedure. Typically the shaft pinned to the fan with a roll pin, that is very difficult to remove due to its location. If it were just the shear pin, the auger wouldn't be seized, it would spin freely. There are bearings on the end of the housing that hold the shaft, it is possible that the bearing seized, and the shear pin sheared on the side that is stuck.

I hope for your sake that is the problem, but let me know if you can find that tag, I will look to see if there is anything else it could be.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.



The model no. is 38035.


If one side of the auger spins freely, is that caused by a broken shear pin? Also, if the other side is unmovable except for a very slight forward and backward movement; has the transfer case/auger seized on that side? Are the augers on this model designed to rotate when not engaged? Also, how do I get you a picture if needed?



Sorry for the delay, I couldn't get back to you last night. The shear pin is listed as a bolt reference number 60. There should be one on each side. Chances are, the side that's spinning freely is the side with the broken shear pin if that is what is wrong. The side that moves forward and backward is probably still keyed to the shaft. From the picture I posted you can see that it is pretty involved in getting at. but as for the shear pins you should be able to get to them through a hole in the auger drum.

Rotate the drum on the side that spins freely, and lineup the hole in the shaft with a hole in the auger. If the shaft is still keyed to the auger on the side that spins freely, the problem is in the gear box.

If neither one of the augers turn but the fan is turning, the problem is definitely in the gearbox. It's not even a fan is turning, it sounds like you have a failed belt, which is easy to see if you remove the plastic cover between the chute, and the engine.

You can see all the drawings here:
just type in your model number, and if you could find the serial number you can hone in on exactly what year your machine was made.

As for your question about the augers rotating when not engaged, the fan has to be rotating to move the augers, as the fan drives the input shaft of the gearbox. If you find the bell has failed, the top two bolts that connect the mainframe with the auger housing can be removed and split the two pieces apart to allow you to slip the belt in between the two pulleys. Otherwise it may be difficult as the distance between the pullies is less than the thickness of the belt. let me know how you make out.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.



I did go and look very carefully at the augers and yes, one of the bolts on the outside of one of the augers is missing. I had to remove 2 bolts on the outside of the casing holding the augers in order for me to see the bolts. I then went and tried removing the existing bolt from the good side so I could get a replacement. I had to knock the good one out with a long metal rod but it did come out. I then went to my local hardware store and purchased 2 replacement bolts and nuts. The good bolt a 7/16ths I used as a reference was pretty beat up and the nut was a nylock so I will replace both sides. Its going to be quite interesting to see if I can gain access to slip the bolts back in because they are located 90 degrees from one another on the axle of the augers. I'll let you know how I do. I might want to wait for the weekend before tackling this because I'm doing all this at night in my garage; my uninsulated garage. It was -4 last night!

ooF DAH!

Chris Huber and 2 other Small Engine Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Success! It was a pain in the *** to get the bolts back in though. Thanks for all of your help!
Cool, I'm glad I was able to help.