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Ken, Saturn Mechanic
Category: Saturn
Satisfied Customers: 754
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2000 saturn ls2, initially it would sometimes not start when

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2000 saturn ls2, initially it would sometimes not start when turning over so I'd wait 20 minutes or so and it would start fine. Then one morning it seem to be running unbalanced on the way to work on the highway. As I desellerated on the off ramp it stalled out and it wasn't started since.
I took it to a saturn dealer and he charged me for a crank shaft position senor that was diagnosed by the Diagnostic Computer used by Saturn. They then state that the Ignition coil for the front pack was swapped for a known working coil that lead them to recommend that the rear coil may be bad as well since the car would not work after the front coil was replaced.

The repair was 4+ hours of work with no promise of it being bad, costing over $400 just for the work and $250 for the coil. I chose to buy a new pair of new coils from Salvo Auto and installed them for $200 for both, yet that didn't work either.

I want to change the Passlock sensor and the BCM? Help
Hi and thanks for your question! Sorry I did not git back to ya sooner, the hole family is sick. Is the security light flashing when you turn the key to the run position? You cant replace the BCM, because it needs to be programed to the vehicle. Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Ken, no dash indicator were flashing. I will check to see if one flashes now that I've replaced the coils. On the day it broke down a dah warning came on concerning the engine on the lower left hand side of the instument panel but it was continuously on, not blinking. The car is not here , but i'll check it tonite and let you know it's current status.


Thanks Ken

I want you to look for the security light flashing. When the system has a problem ,they normally start and then die in 2 to 4 seconds. That is a security failure. They can not turn the motor off while you are driving. They always set fault codes in the BCM or the PCM. If it dies on the road then you need to see if you loose spark or fuel. You say you had no spark, You replaced the crank sensor, now the coils and I do see bad models also. We had a lot of problems with the models. Let me know what what you find out to night. Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
There was no flashing security light, The service engine soon light was the one that stayed lite. I'm not saying that it got no spark, I'm saying that Saturn said they found the front coil to be defective and that the rear is probably bad as well. I've never seen both go at once ,but I have seen the module go which would give the appearance of both coils being bad because they don't get the signal to spark, therefore; I don't completely trust thier knowledge base nor their honesty. The only reason I suspected the Passlock sensor is that it always turned over but seemed to lack fuel and that it wasn't until I de-sellerated on the off ramp that it seemed my fuel stopped injecting. The coils are brand new now, so it's either no injection or no signal to spark as I see it.

It is not starting right now?

If not ,I want you to lay by the fuel tank and have someone turn the key to run and listen for the fuel pump. It should run for 3 to 5 seconds to prim the fuel system. This is a L200 or a SL2? Motor is a 2.2L or a 1.9L? My information web sight is down and I can't log on. I will try in the AM. You can also check for spark. Let me know what you find. Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
This a 2000 LS2 6 cylinder. I was unable to send my last message to you for some reason, but the "check engine soon" light was on and nothing blinking. I'll check the pump tonite. Is there a way to check for spark other then removing the coils and plugs and running a ground wire to the thread of the spark plug with it plugged into the coil pack?
Is it runnng right now? Ken
My information web sight is still down. I am sorry, I can check later. I will have to call tomorrow to find out what is going on. leave the plugs in the motor and pull a coil out a see if you have spark. If you do not hear the fuel pump, try slapping the bottom of the tank with someone cranking the motor. The fuel pumps lock up some times and that is my trick to keep from having to push them in the shop. Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

No it doesn't run.

How can I leave the plugs in and take the coil pack out and still test it? I need the plug in the ignition coil in order to energize the spark on the plug ...right? Am I missing somthing?

You can put a small screw driver in the plug boot or use the plugs. The spark will / should jump about 1/2 inch. Dont let it zap ya! Ken

Engine Cranks But Does Not Start (Chart 1 of 3)

Engine Cranks But Won't Start - (Chart 1 Of 3)

In order to correctly diagnose a no start condition, battery voltage must be above 11 volts and the engine must be cranking at normal cranking speed (above 200 RPM). Fuel level and fuel quality in the fuel tank should be checked (do not solely rely on the fuel gage for a level reading). When the ignition is turned to crank, the BCM will check the voltage code from the Passlock sensor. If the voltage code is not received within a certain amount of time or does the match the BCM voltage code, the BCM will send a "fuel disable command" to the ECM over the CAN link. The SECURITY telltale will flash and the engine will not be allowed to start. If the BCM recieves the correct voltage code from the Passlock sensor that it has stored in memory, the BCM will send a password XXXXX the controller area network (CAN) link to the ECM. If the ECM password XXXXX not match the BCM password; or if the ECM does not receive a password XXXXX the BCM, it will NOT allow the engine to start, or allow it to start then stall within four seconds. The SECURITY telltale will flash for 10 minutes if the ECM receives no password; an incorrect password XXXXX a fuel disable command. If the password XXXXX the ECM is correct, the engine will operate normally. The password XXXXX XXXXX continuously by the BCM to the ECM during run mode. If the password XXXXX lost or incorrect during the drive cycle, the vehicle will be allowed to start on succeeding ignition cycles without the aid of Passlock and the SECURITY telltale will be On steady. This mode is called fail enable mode.

Diagnostic Aids

BCM or ECM DTCs that may cause a no start and should be diagnosed first:

U-type communication: U1000, U1016, U1064, U2105 or U2107
BCM/ECM Passlock/security system: P1630, P1631, P1632, B1372, B1382, B2947, B2948, B2957, B2958 or B2960
ECM internal fault: P0601, P0602, P0603, P0604 or P0606
Fuel pump relay coil circuit: P0230, P0231, P0232, P0627, P0628 or P0629
Crankshaft position sensor circuit: P0335
Camshaft position sensor circuit: P0341, P0342 or P0343

If no crankshaft position (CKP) sensor signal is detected during engine crank when a valid camshaft sensor signal is received, P0335 will set. Fuel and spark will NOT be enabled.

If a MAF circuit fault occurs, the ECM will use the MAP, engine speed and TP angle to calculate engine airflow. The engine will start if this condition occurs.

Important: The ECM uses the MAP sensor to determine barometric pressure for initial starting, as well as for EGR system diagnostics. If this sensor value is skewed, the engine may experience a hard/no start condition. Once the engine is started, the ECM will eventually use a corrected baro value. This may take up to several minutes with the vehicle moving. The MAP value with the ignition On and engine Off should read between 98-102 kPa depending on ground altitude.

Make sure ECT sensor and MAF voltage readings on the scan tool with ignition On, engine Off look normal. MAF voltage should be between 0.8-1.2 volts with ignition On, and the engine Off. The ECT and IAT should be within 2°C (4°F) of each other if the vehicle has been sitting overnight. A skewed sensor reading may cause a hard/no start condition.

Make sure the EGR valve is not stuck open by reading the EGR SENSOR voltage on the scan tool. Normal closed valve readings should be within 0.5-1.0 volts.

Check for a flooded engine.

Important: There is NO clear flood mode on the L81 engine that would cut fuel Off during an engine crank. However, if the accelerator pedal is pressed between 14 and 100% during an engine crank, the throttle blade will open in proportion to the travel of the accelerator pedal. At full accelerator pedal travel during the engine crank, the throttle blade will be open 100%, which may clear a flooded engine.

Make sure the main relay is operating correctly in the UHFB by listening to the relay click when the ignition is turned On.

These ECM fuses in the UHFB will cause a no start if open:

CONTROLS B+ 10 amp
ENGINE CNTL 2 10 amp
ENGINE CNTL 3 10 amp
BCM 15 amp
FUEL PUMP 15 amp
IGN 15 amp
IGN 1 / 2 30 amp

Important: The ECM will only command the fuel pump relay On when the engine is cranking or running.

Object Number: 898609  Size: FP
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Object Number: 898610  Size: FP
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Engine Cranks But Won't Start

The ECM controls spark timing and dwell (spark On-time) under all engine running conditions. Each of the two electronic ignition (EI) modules has the ability to charge and discharge each of its three primary coils independently based on ECM control. The ECM uses a high control signal of near 5 volts to charge up the primary coil and a low control signal of near 0 volts to discharge the primary coil. If the primary coil is charged and the control signal is low, current will be induced in the secondary coil and will fire out of its secondary tower.

Important: If DTC P0341, P0342 or P0343 is set, diagnose that DTC first. The ECM will still provide spark and fuel to only one cylinder at a time if the cam sensor signal is not present. Therefore, the engine may or may not start if this condition occurs.

Use the scan tool to perform an IGNITION COIL test for each individual cylinder while listening closely for spark at appropriate ignition coil.

Spark on one cylinder of the 1, 3, 5 bank and spark on another cylinder of the 2, 4, 6 bank indicates that each EI module power and ground circuits are OK.

Object Number: 895743  Size: FP
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Object Number: 898614  Size: FP

Engine Cranks But Won't Start - (Chart 3 Of 3 - Fuel Delivery)

The ECM controls the fuel pump motor by supplying ground to the fuel pump relay coil circuit. The fuel pump runs continuously whenever the engine is running or cranking. The fuel pump is fed battery voltage whenever the fuel pump relay is turned On. The main relay must be turned On in order for current to flow to the relay coil circuit.

Diagnostic Aids

Important: If DTC P0230, P0231, P0232, P0627, P0628 or P0629 is set, diagnose that DTC first.

Important: The ECM will NOT command the fuel pump relay On unless the engine is cranking or running.

Fuel rail pressure: 269-338 kPa (39-49 psi).

Fuel pump relay coil resistance: 70-115 ohms.

Object Number: 895756  Size: FP
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Object Number: 898617  Size: FP

How is it going? Let me know if you need more information. Read the chart over and test what you can. Please remember to click "Accepted" or I do not get compensated for helping you. Thank You Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Well Ken, I appreciate the technicall information. Although the use of the codes at this point is premature until I buy the reader neccessary to see these codes. Can I buy it ,if so ,how much is it? It seems that it would save us both alot of trouble...


None the less, I checked for the sound of the fuel pump at the rear right side of the car at the gas cap but heard nothing. I depressed the valve at the back of the engine over the rear intake ports.) It looks like a tire valve)it did nothing until the engine was actually turned over, then it shot out. I tried to check the spark from the coil but a spring pushes the screwdriver out and a plug only stays over the boot of the coil when the coil pack is screwed down into place. I did press a plug into the boot and depress it against the engines bracket hard enough to try it, there was no spark. I'm relatively sure the battery was charge above 11 volts but if it wasn't could that affect the results of my tests?

My remote access battery has been dead so I unlock with the key instead.

So you still have no spark. lets check the things that you can. Check all the fuse with a test light or a volt meter.In both the under hood and in the dash. A scan tool is 4000 to 5000. You can get a code reader for a 100. They do not always read all codes in all the different computers. I don't think both igntion modules have gone out. You had the crank sensor replacced. You will need to pull codes and inspect the wiring. Ken

#99-T-68: Various Driveability Concerns Including: Engine Cranks But Will Not Start, or MIL Service Engine Soon Telltale On with One or More ECM DTCs Stored - (Jan 6, 2003)

Subject:Various Driveability Concerns Including: Engine Cranks But Will Not Start, or (MIL) Service Engine Soon Telltale On with One or More ECM DTCs Stored (Repair Chafed Wire (S) in Engine Harness)

Models:2000 Saturn L-Series vehicles built before and including VIN YY607831 equipped with V-6 (RPO L81) engines



Customers may comment of engine cranking and not starting. Various engine control module (ECM) diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) may be set with or without driveability concerns.


This condition may be caused by the ECM wiring harness becoming chafed at any of following points:

Right Rear ECM retaining bolt with Torx head
Intake runner support bracket bolt
Wiring harness

(Refer to illustration on page 2 of this bulletin.)


Repair damaged wires and wrap wiring harness conduit closed with electrical tape.

Object Number: 897190  Size: MF


  1. INSPECT ECM ENGINE WIRING CONDUIT AT LOCATIONS (1), (2), and (3) shown in illustration above.
    If damage or protrusion of wiring conduit is evident, continue to step 2.
    If damage or protrusion of wiring is not evident, refer to appropriate DTC information or other diagnostic charts in the Engine/Emissions Controls section of the 2000 L-Series (L81) Service Manual.
  2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  3. Disconnect BLK 64-way connector J1 from ECM.
  4. Remove tape from conduit and suspected area of wiring harness chafe.
  5. Cut damaged wire at location of chafe.
  6. Remove insulation from both ends of cut wire, recommended wire strip length is 9.5 mm (3/8 in). Caution must be used when stripping wire to prevent cutting wire strands. Locate new splice a minimum of 40 mm (1.5 in.) from other splices.
    Object Number: 880456  Size: SH

    Important: With wiring used in Saturn vehicles, it is recommended that approved Packard Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves (or equivalent) be used.

  7. Using a Saturn approved crimp and seal sleeve (found in special tools kit SA9138Z) position stripped ends of wires in sleeve until wires hit stop.
  8. Hand crimp sleeve using appropriate crimping tool. Gently tug on wires to ensure they are secure before applying heat to seal sleeve.
    Object Number: 862382  Size: SH


  9. Apply heat using Ultratorch or equivalent device, heating to 175° C (347° F) until glue flows around edges of sleeve.
  10. Check repaired wire continuity and verify proper repair.
  11. Tape wiring harness with electrical tape prior to installing it into conduit to prevent the possibility of future chafing.
  12. Install wiring harness into conduit and wrap conduit seam to original condition with electrical tape.
  13. Connect BLK 64-way connector J1 at ECM.
  14. Connect negative battery cable.

    Tighten nut to 17 N m(13 lb ft)

  15. If any chafed wire repaired was injector related, change engine oil filter because engine oil may be diluted with fuel.

Parts Requirements


.35 .50 .80 22 20 18

1.0 2.0 16 14

3.0 5.0 12 10

Packard P/N*

Special Tools P/N**



- Salmon -



- Blue -



- Yellow -

* Order through Packard at (1-800-722-5273)

** Order through Saturn Special Tool Catalog. Included with Terminal Repair Kit (SA9138Z)

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
Ken, sorry for the long delay's, my wife and I trade off with the kids to provide for our busy work schedules. I'll check the harness later today. Thanks for your patients.
It ok, Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Wow, worked late again, I check the wiring harness. It's in great condition.It's very taunt but well protected.

I have no spark, fuel pumps to the release valve at the top of the engine when turning it over. I of course have to push on the valve to see this. Can I test the injection to see if it works or test the send to the coils, or is there a way to bypass the passlock sensor to see if it's cutting off the fuel and spark?

I have this weekend to pinpoint the problem without having to buy items I may not even need, so I if theres any way to better narrow this down I would be elated.

By the way, I don't feel $30 is an exceptable payment for your efforts should your help result in a success, so please don't feel I wish to abuse your knowledge and grace by dragging this out,..I'm just to busy to have this problem yet I must fix it soon or my wife will have to continue walking to work. So thanks for your patients.

I am leaving for the weekend I am going to repost your question for another Expert to help you this weekend. I am very sorry, Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

My wife suggested that you may have mis-interpreted my comment comcerning payment, so to clairify, I'm not paying you enough for your efforts should the help you give me work. You assistance is worth far more then $30. I'll certainly pay the maximum amount , I just don't see how you can survive on so little.

That being said, I still hope to make some headway this weekend,so any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I am not concerned about the payment, I am up fishing with my kids and taking 4 days off. I also work as a tech in a shop. I just want you to get some help fixing your car. I do not have a simple answer for this problem. You will need to read over the no start charts I sent you and check what you can at home. Then you are going to have to take it to a sop hat has a scan tool that works on tat Saturn. In my shop we have not had one problem that stands out. I do not think this is a pass lock problem.The computer urns off the injectors and not the spark. Check all the fuses and read of the no start charts I sent you. I am sorry another EXPERT did not help you while I am gone. I will try to check in Later for you. Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

New news, I got the car started. One of the ignition fuses found in the middle of the fuse block was blown. I put both old Ignition coils back in and they're fine as well. I have to wonder if the crank sensor was truely bad at this point. Saturn told me my front Coil was bad and possibly the back because they tested the front coil possition by putting in a known good coil and it worked, but how? if I got no spark with this fuse blown how did they and my coil works fine so it sounds to me like a scam.

None the less, I drove it halfway home last night (2 miles) and the fuse had blown again. upon replacing it with a 20amp instead of a 15amp ,I made it home without incident. I suspect a higher then normal current drawat that fuse, so what parts are powered through this 15amp fuse? It sits about the middle of the fuse block near 2 spare sockets.

It could be that coil.IS the fuse labled ? I can get you a wiring diagram! Ken
Object Number: 887004  Size: FP
Putting in a larger fuse is not a good idea. That turns the wiring and connectors into the fuse. If the circuit over loads then the wiring burns. It can get very expensive. You are going to make sure you do not have a power wire on that ciriut shorting to ground.If all seems ok then you may want to replace that coil and fuse. You need to put in a 15 amp. Ken
Hay, I just wanted to say I was sorry for not being around this last weekend to help you as much as I would have liked. This is the first time since last summer that I have taken time to just be with my wife and kid's. You are doing well! Let me know how you are doing and if you need more information. Thanks Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
If the 15 amp fuse was blown, could Saturn have tested the front coil and determined it to be defective and as well plugged in another coil to see it work? I'm thinking neither is possible without this fuse working. The engine runs very well with the exception of the fuse eventually blowing. Could a less then efficient coil cause the fuse to blown and still sound good?
Yes I test things all the time. I will put in a good fuse and plug in a part the go for a test drive. If all is ok but the customer takes it out of the shop. I put back in the bad fuse and part that I put in for testing. I will normaly tell the writer what parts it needs if the customer paid for diagnoses time. That is what they paid for. Not all techs are as nice, they get mad that the customer took the car home. Ken
Was that the right fuse that was blown. I guessed at with one you had blown. Yes a coil can be shoted in side and blow the fuse. I have not seen it on that motor but I have seen it on other motors. Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
There are 3 ignition fuses, one is a 30amp large fuse, there is one at the top of the fuse block next to the Hazards and the other (the one that has blown) in the middle of the fuse block. If the schematic is for the middle one then I'll change out the coils. Is it?
I am looking. I do not have a V6 in here today to go look at. You may have to pull that fuse and then test for power to the coil. I go to lunch shorly and I can look to see if I can find information for you. Ken
There is only one marked IGN. The others should be marked IGN 0, IGN 1 , IGN 3. The one marked IGN is the one for the coils. Ken





Red (10)



Red (10)

Right Headlamps


Red (10)

Left Headlamps


Red (10)

Air Conditioning System


Yellow (20)

Cigar Lighter


Yellow (20)

Power Outlet


Green (30)

Right Instrument Panel Fuse Block


Red (10)

Powertrain Control Module (2.2L L4), Engine Control Module (3.0L V6), Transaxle Control Module (3.0L V6)


Yellow (20)

Body Control Module


Red (10)

Body Control Module, Engine Control Module, Cruise Control, ABS


Red (10)

Electronic Ignition System (2.2L L4)


Blue (15)

Ignition Coils (3.0L V6)


Red (10)

Fuel Injectors (2.2L L4)


Red (10)

Backup Lamps, Coolant Level Switch


Red (10)

Brake Lamps


Blue (15)

Fuel Pump Relay


Red (10)

Park Neutral Position Switch, Powertrain Control Module


Gray (2)

Cruise Control Switch


Red (10)

Cooling Fan Control Module, Powertrain Control Module, Transaxle (2.2L L4), Transaxle Control Module (3.0L V6)


Red (10)

Instrument Cluster, Coolant Level Switch, Air Bag Electronic PRNDL


Red (10)

Body Control Module, Instrument Cluster, Dimmer Switch


Red (10)

Front Park Lamps, Taillamps, Front Marker Lamps, Rear Marker Lamps, License Lamps, Radio Display Lights, I/P Cluster Backlighting, I/P Dimmer, Cigar Lighter Ring, Ashtray Light, PRNDL Light, HVAC Control Switch Backlighting


Red (10)

Hazard Flasher, HBTT (Headlamp HI Beam Indicator), I/P Cluster


Natural (25)

Rear Window Defogger


Red (10)

Audio System, On Star (If Equipped)


Blue (15)

Audio, Data Link Connector (DLC)

ING 3 (2.2L L4)

Red (10)

Cruise Clutch Switch, Emissions Controls, A/C Relay, Heated Oxygen Sensor, Vehicle Speed Signal Conditioner Module (2.2L L4 engine with manual transaxle and no ABS)


Red (10)

3.0L V6 Engine


Red (10)

3.0L V6 Engine


Red (10)

3.0L V6 Engine

Devices A/C Diode


A/C Diode (For Electrical System Protection)

Just wanted to check in and see how it is going? Ken

Customer: replied 8 years ago.
I'll change out the Coils tommorrow after my doctors appointment and let you know, thanks for checking.
I will be looking for you. Ken

Is it running? Ken

Hay I hope all is running! Please remember to click " Accepted" or I do not get compensated for helping you. Let me know if you have any more questions! Thank You Ken

Customer: replied 8 years ago.

Well Ken, as it turns out...I replaced the coils and drove to work on friday 10 miles. On the way back home the car started bucking like a horse, more accurately, like a clogged fuel filter. I parked under Interstate 895 to check it out. I finally desided to go through the tunnell very slowly and made it home with bucking only upon acceleration.

Am I correct in assuming the fuel filter or is this related to my past issues? Also, what should I do to diagnose the present problem and should I use injector cleaner as a precaution?

When a fuel filter starts to plug up you normaly can let off the gas and get some power back. When it was bucking did the ses light come on or start flashing? Ken
Customer: replied 8 years ago.

The service engine soon light stayed on and the change oil soon light came on and off sometimes. Ussually it stays on as I am do for another oil change, but never went on and off as the engine bucked as it did this time.

From a full stop it seem to behave up until it reached 2000rpm in any gear.

Is sounds like you have a misfire. You may have to have the codes pulled from the computer to find out what is having a fault. Just Answer may close your question soon. If they do you will need to post another question for me to keep helping you or click " Accepted" to buy us more time. It is good that the fuse is not blowing! You might want to make sure you have the coils and plug wires on correctly. If they are not seated correctly they will allow the spark to leak out and cause a misfire. Ken
Ken and other Saturn Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 8 years ago.
OK Ken, I found the problem. When I was assembling the engine after I put in the new coils, I placed the mounting swrews of the computers wiring harness in finger tight with the intention of tightening them after testing. I didn't tightenen them. All 4 screws were loose as a result of the driving to work and since the connection block was only loosly grounded it bucked when I accelerated or rather, misfired as you suggested. Once I locked down the screws it ran great. Thanks for all your help and patients.