Hi! My name is ***** ***** I can assist you with this. I may need some additional information from you first in order to give a complete answer.
no problem. standing by to answer what I can
Thank you for asking for me here and Robert and I assist each other. I went back and read his exchanges with you so I have a handle on the problem. Two things stand out here. One is that the batteries need to be load tested to be sure they are viable. And then you need to check the converter to be sure that it is putting out between 13.7 and 14.2 VDC. This is definitely an issue with voltage that is too low. Start there and then get back to me with the results. Randall
Will do. thanks. battery load tested good. I will check the converter. it might be tomorrow before I get back with you. Kolin
No problem. I am here every day.
Randall, converter is putting out 13.4VDC.
Not great. So find out why the voltage is so low at the furnace. Probably a bad ground or other bad connection. You need over 12 VDC there.
Or perhaps the motor is failing and has a partial short and is dragging the voltage down.
When did you have the LP working pressure at the tank regulator checked and adjusted last? That is supposed to be done at least once a year. You want it adjusted to 12 Water Column Inches and most shops have a manometer and can do this for you.
I have never had LP pressure checked. Could this be the issue even if all the other gas appliances are working (reefer, water heater, stove)?
The furnace is the most sensitive to LP pressure. About half of the ones I check in the shop are low. If you didn't have a bug screen it might be some critters were in there, but the main thing is the low voltage. It has to be up around 12 VDC when in operation. Check it before the motor comes on and then afterward. It shouldn't drop that much.
I was reading up on the operation of the furnace and am wondering about the blower. As soon as I set the thermostat the blower comes on. isn't there supposed to be a time delay after setting the thermo and the blower coming on? and if the blower is supposed to start immediately, do I check the "before" voltage prior to setting the thermo...?
The blower comes on right away and goes through a purge cycle.
Randall, I accidentally discovered something as I was measuring voltages today. First of all, the input voltage today was 12.7 before I started anything. As soon as I set the thermo the blower came on and the voltage dropped to approx 9.8. But then as I reached for the multimeter lead, my hand passed in front of the blower intake, blocking the air inflow, and the voltage increased to about 10.5. It seemed that the more air flow I obstructed, the higher the voltage was. I did not attempt to continue to block it to see how high I could get the voltage to go..I wanted to touch base with you first.Also, a note in case it makes a difference. I have had the cover (the metal case that surrounds the furnace itself) off of the furnace this entire time for all this troubleshooting. Is it designed to obstruct some airflow to the blower?
No. I think the motor is failing. If this is the OEM motor it is nearly 12 years old. Most won't go half that long. The voltage has go to stay over 11 VDC or the other parts of the system won't work. And if you are plugged into shore power that DC voltage should be nearly 14 VDC. It won't run long if you are not adding some kind of charging, especially on just one battery.
OK. I think I am going to buy a replacement motor and see what happens. I'll let you know. Do you have a recommendation for a supplier?
Google the motor number and see who has the best deal. Generic motors are fine here. What is your serial number and I can give you a part number.
I'll have to get back with you tomorrow on that. thanks.
If the serial numbe then is above 12003642 then the motor number is ***** and is a 3" motor. Below that is part number 232682 and is the earlier 2.5" motor.
Randall, the PN listed on the motor is 232651. This does not correspond with either of your PNs. Also, I am not sure you can ohm motors, but I read between .8 and 1 ohm. Does that make sense?
233102. I was looking at the wrong line. I don't know what they would ohm out.
Randall, I wanted to try one more thing before I bought a new motor. I bypassed all the wiring in the trailer. I disconnected the battery, brought it inside and connected it directly to the furnace R&Y power in wires. I connected the blue thermostat wires to the existing trailer wiring. No voltage drops and the furnace lit off. so now, I just need to find where my wiring issue is to the furnace. I did notice that while the battery was out, my LR lighting dimmed. Today, my converter cottage was 13V (same as battery installed with battery disconnect on). With battery disconnect off, converter voltage increased to 13.85. What do you think?
I think you need to have the batteries load tested. And if you only have one then you need two.
I will have the battery tested again. Is there a test for these that AutoZone/O'Reilly's can't do correctly? That is who tested it last time and said it was good. Also, although this 5th wheel originally came with only one battery, I did modify it to carry two in parallel. I have just been using this one for troubleshooting.Also, I did one more step....I connected all wiring correctly (thru all trailer wiring...original) and turned off the battery disconnect. Furnace lit off. Input voltage dropped to 10.5 though, but furnace worked.
There may be a bad connection in there at some point that is causing the voltage to drop. That can be either in the positive side or on the ground side of the circuit.
I was thinking the same but hoping you would say that...I hate chasing wires. But, gotta do it. I'm going to rate you now if you don't mind if I bother you again as I have questions. And I am sure I will. Thanks for your help Randall. Great advice!
You are most welcome! Please let me know what you find. Thanks!