I have a N611L that shut off. I noticed what looks like a…

T​here is a 12 VDC fuse in your load center for the fridge and another one on the control board on the rear of the fridge. See the attached link for a copy of the Norcold Service Manual for this model. See that page on the fuses. If you have a 12 VDC test light or a small digital multimeter this is much easier to track down. Attach a photo of the wire you mentioned and perhaps I can tell where it went. Use the paperclip icon for that. All follow ups are included in our fee. No time http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncoldnnewnseries.pdf

That was to the high limit switch. That should have had one wire going in and another one coming out of that disc on the stack. Give me your e-mail addy.

That is telling you there is a problem with the high limit switch. And you do need a new one. That can usually be obtained at no cost from Norcold. It is part of the overheating protection system. I am adding a link to that site for you. http://www.thetford.com/customer-support/contact-us/

It may be shorted out inside. Kind of rare, but it can happen.

If you were to replace the power board you would want to go to an after market board made by Dinosaur Electronics. I am attached a link to that for you. It depends on which part number board you have. If you have a 623661 they don't have one for that I don't think. I would have to call for a part number for that sensor switch. It is part of a recall kit. They furnish that at no cost. http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Nor_boards.htm

This kit is preferred over the Norcold version. http://thenorcoldguy.com/norcold-high-temperature-limit-switch-v2-0-by-arprv/

Which is one reason for people going to the ARP version so you don't have to wait to see a Thetford approved tech. What is your control board part number and I can give you the reset sequence?

Ground it to the flue or other metal on the rear of the fridge. If you don't solve the hi-limit issue, it won't reset. See the attached link for that instruction. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/newreset.pdf

That part that you said broke on the vent stack.

You referred to it much earlier at being attached to the vent stack above the burner. Is that there or not?

Is this installation in a slide out or not?

S​ee the attached photo link for this switch. http://thenorcoldguy.com/norcold-thermal-limit-switch-2m0802-fits-the-n6-n8-and-n1095-models/

You would have to attach it to your post using the paperclip icon. Did you see the photo link I gave you?

On my side it is at the top of the text block area. Is yours like the one in the photo link? If that is bad you need to replace it or the board won't reset.

Jump around it and see if the board will reset.

Take the wires off the limit switch and hook them together. OR take one off at the board and hook the other end up to the board so the loop is complete. It has to make a completer circuit to work.

I think one of the Dometic switches will work just as well and for a whole bunch less money! Check your local dealer and see if he has one out of their recall kit he can sell you or give you.

That may be a flame sense issue. Be sure that the igniter is fully engulfed in the flame. And you may need to test the thermister. See that section of the manual. Your meter and a glass of ice water are needed.

You need to use ice water and a meter. And you pull off the cover surrounding the burner and look. The ignitor wire has to be in the flame and glowing red.

D​id you print out that Service Manual link I gave you earlier? Is this ignitor new or not?

See that section of the manual on testing the thermistor. The wire may be damaged and that is why it is acting erratic. Or the gas valve may be acting up. Check that as well. Or the board may be the problem. No way to test that unfortunately. You can rule out all other causes though.

That was the whole purpose of giving you a Service Manual. This is all in there. Ohm it out as per the instructions.

That was the whole purpose of giving you a Service Manual. This is all in there. Ohm it out as per the instructions.

We tend to forget that sometimes. Disconnect the leads and ohm out the coil. No polarity on these. I think the ohms rating is in the manual.