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If you can come up with a small digital multimeter we can test that and see. About $20 or so at most hardware stores and easy to use. What is the make and model of your load center?
I am headed back too my shop so it may be about 30 minutes before I can respond.
The converter should be putting out about 13.7 VDC and not more than 1/2 VAC ripple into the DC circuit. If this is an older OEM unit that hasn't been upgraded to a newer fully electronic unit that can be more common. And sometimes the relay inside locks up and won't allow it to switch back between the battery mode and the shore cord mode. We can test that with a meter. All follow ups are included in our fee. No time limit.
Test at the batteries and at the coverter fuses.
Exactly 12 VDC? That would be odd. Get the new digital meter and we can get this figured out.
So it appears that the converter is not working. It should be reading about 13.7 VDC. Was that on the red lead or the blue lead attached to the fuse block? Those older units have two different charging rates. The new electronic units just has one. And did you check for any AC ripple in that DC current. Put the meter on "AC volts" and read it the same place. You are only allowed 1/2 VAC there. Get back to me later and we can sort this out.
No, it doesn't store power. It should not read over about 7 VAC when plugged into shore power. What was the red lead?
O.K..........what do you read at the black lead terminal? It should be red on the back from the converter.
That converter is toast then. Get an upgrade and use a Progressive Dynamics PD9245 or PD9255. Takes about an hour to replace due to needing to replace the whole fuse block.
Best Converters online is usually good. Google that part number and see who has the best price. Amazon can be good sometimes. Comes with good instructions.
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Not sure on that last part where you are taking the reading. It has to be between the positive and ground.