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I have a Dometic (2 way) refrigerator model: RM2652, serial

I have a Dometic (2...
I have a Dometic (2 way) refrigerator model: RM2652, serial #427 00390, production #921 1441-01 which works well on AC but will fault out on gas. My problem is that it will attempt to light 3 times (45 sec. each with a 2 minute pause between) then fault out. This is what I have done to date. (still installed in trailer )
1. I removed the gas orifice and burner and cleaned per service manual, brilliant clear blue flame.
2. In AC mode, I moved the thermistor up / down and the temperature responded correctly. All lights are responding correctly on the eye brow board (assume good).
3. Checked MV off the thermocouple > 33MV disconnected from board, 6.7 MV connected to the board, replaced same results.
4. Replaced board(no change).
5. Jumped out the thermo-fuse & over temp button (no change) These were not called out on the prints.
6. Ohm’ d the solenoid ( 47 ohms)
7. Blew out the exhaust tube. Thought there may be another upper limit in the exhaust tube not call out on prints. Removed the mounting screws for the complete burner assy. & move it outside the exhaust tube (no change).
8. Thought the supply power may be dirty so I unplugged from AC & disconnected the trailers 12 DC, then reconnected the 12VDC to a fresh car battery (no change).
9. Wired the solenoid / burner assy. directly to battery bypassing the board and it ignites and burns fine. When I reconnect it through board it faults out.
JA: Have you changed a battery before?
Customer: not revelent
JA: What is the model of your '01 RV?
Customer: I have a Dometic (2 way) refrigerator model: RM2652, serial #427 00390, production #921 1441-01 which works well on AC but will fault out on gas. My problem is that it will attempt to light 3 times (45 sec. each with a 2 minute pause between) then fault out. This is what I have done to date. (still installed in trailer )
1. I removed the gas orifice and burner and cleaned per service manual, brilliant clear blue flame.
2. In AC mode, I moved the thermistor up / down and the temperature responded correctly. All lights are responding correctly on the eye brow board (assume good).
3. Checked MV off the thermocouple > 33MV disconnected from board, 6.7 MV connected to the board, replaced same results.
4. Replaced board(no change).
5. Jumped out the thermo-fuse & over temp button (no change) These were not called out on the prints.
6. Ohm’ d the solenoid ( 47 ohms)
7. Blew out the exhaust tube. Thought there may be another upper limit in the exhaust tube not call out on prints. Removed the mounting screws for the complete burner assy. & move it outside the exhaust tube (no change).
8. Thought the supply power may be dirty so I unplugged from AC & disconnected the trailers 12 DC, then reconnected the 12VDC to a fresh car battery (no change).
9. Wired the solenoid / burner assy. directly to battery bypassing the board and it ignites and burns fine. When I reconnect it through board it faults out.
JA: Are you fixing your RV yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: I have a Dometic (2 way) refrigerator model: RM2652, serial #427 00390, production #921 1441-01 which works well on AC but will fault out on gas. My problem is that it will attempt to light 3 times (45 sec. each with a 2 minute pause between) then fault out. This is what I have done to date. (still installed in trailer )
1. I removed the gas orifice and burner and cleaned per service manual, brilliant clear blue flame.
2. In AC mode, I moved the thermistor up / down and the temperature responded correctly. All lights are responding correctly on the eye brow board (assume good).
3. Checked MV off the thermocouple > 33MV disconnected from board, 6.7 MV connected to the board, replaced same results.
4. Replaced board(no change).
5. Jumped out the thermo-fuse & over temp button (no change) These were not called out on the prints.
6. Ohm’ d the solenoid ( 47 ohms)
7. Blew out the exhaust tube. Thought there may be another upper limit in the exhaust tube not call out on prints. Removed the mounting screws for the complete burner assy. & move it outside the exhaust tube (no change).
8. Thought the supply power may be dirty so I unplugged from AC & disconnected the trailers 12 DC, then reconnected the 12VDC to a fresh car battery (no change).
9. Wired the solenoid / burner assy. directly to battery bypassing the board and it ignites and burns fine. When I reconnect it through board it faults out.
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: I have a Dometic (2 way) refrigerator model: RM2652, serial #427 00390, production #921 1441-01 which works well on AC but will fault out on gas. My problem is that it will attempt to light 3 times (45 sec. each with a 2 minute pause between) then fault out. This is what I have done to date. (still installed in trailer )
1. I removed the gas orifice and burner and cleaned per service manual, brilliant clear blue flame.
2. In AC mode, I moved the thermistor up / down and the temperature responded correctly. All lights are responding correctly on the eye brow board (assume good).
3. Checked MV off the thermocouple > 33MV disconnected from board, 6.7 MV connected to the board, replaced same results.
4. Replaced board(no change).
5. Jumped out the thermo-fuse & over temp button (no change) These were not called out on the prints.
6. Ohm’ d the solenoid ( 47 ohms)
7. Blew out the exhaust tube. Thought there may be another upper limit in the exhaust tube not call out on prints. Removed the mounting screws for the complete burner assy. & move it outside the exhaust tube (no change).
8. Thought the supply power may be dirty so I unplugged from AC & disconnected the trailers 12 DC, then reconnected the 12VDC to a fresh car battery (no change).
9. Wired the solenoid / burner assy. directly to battery bypassing the board and it ignites and burns fine. When I reconnect it through board it faults out.
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Answered in 3 minutes by:
9/11/2017
Randall
Randall, RVIA Certification
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 12,267
Experience: RVDA/RVIA Master Certified Technician with many years experience.
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Hi! My name is ***** ***** I can assist you with this. I may need some additional information from you first in order to give a complete answer.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
let me know

I​t appears that from that information that the control board is defective and I would replace it with one from Dinosaur Electronics. Much better than an OEM board and made in the USA. Those are all I use in my shop. Shop around as the price varies. Let me know if you need more as all follow ups are included in our fee.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
I already replaced the control board and had the same issue. Would you have part number?

I need to look it up as this model has used 3 different boards. What is the part number on your board cover? How old is this RV?

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
From Dinosaur Electronics that is.

T​hat is how they are checked for part number. Dinosaur uses the same number.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
the rv is a 2005 forest river , give me aminute on the part # on the control board

10-4

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
MFG Part#(###) ###-####002
Customer reply replied 3 months ago
pager just went off I have to go we will talk later

I am at lunch and will get this when I get back to the shop shortly.

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Dinosaur part #3850415.010D and be sure you observe the installion instructions. The wiring may be different.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Randall,
Thank you for the help I will order this replacement board, I guess the last board could have been bad out of the package stay tuned for the outcome. ***** ***** Rick

You are most welcome! Please get back to me if you need more on this. And double check the incoming DC voltage and then set your meter on AC volts and take another reading. I would be interested to see if there is any ripple in that DC reading. That would affect a board and make it malfunction. Pay atttention to the installation. Some of their leads are in a different position on the board.

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L​et me double check that and get back to you. I don't recall seeing that plug before, but I have one of these at my shop. I do know this board fits more than one model.

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O.K..........I think I finally have this figured out. This originally had a(###) ###-####017 control board. At some point it was replaced by the 338741.002 kit that allowed the use of what is called the "Universal Power Board" which should be the one you have now. I have never used that particular "kit" so I don't know what all is in there. The original upgrade to a Dinosaur Electronics board would have been to a Micro P-711 board. So I think I should give Dinosaur Electronics a call and ask them for some help. Chad there is a whiz at this stuff and when I get stumped (like now) I give him a call. He can help us sort this out. I will get back to you with what I find out.

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O.K..........I think I finally have this figured out. This originally had a(###) ###-####017 control board. At some point it was replaced by the 338741.002 kit that allowed the use of what is called the "Universal Power Board" which should be the one you have now. I have never used that particular "kit" so I don't know what all is in there. The original upgrade to a Dinosaur Electronics board would have been to a Micro P-711 board. So I think I should give Dinosaur Electronics a call and ask them for some help. Chad there is a whiz at this stuff and when I get stumped (like now) I give him a call. He can help us sort this out. I will get back to you with what I find out.

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I am adding a link to the parts breakdown for that model and product number. Notice the board number. Save this so you have it in case you need other parts down the road. http://www.laurelhurstdistributors.com/parts/refrigerators/dometic/RM2652_1.html

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Randall,
On the parts breakdown you sent me I would like to double check the product number the document lists,###-##-####921144002,921144003,921144004 . The product # off my unit is a###-##-####(see attached). I also included a picture of the control board and its cover (if that helps). I should be able to check the voltages tonight .

O.K..........that did have a(###) ###-####013 board in it. See the new attachment. http://www.laurelhurstdistributors.com/parts/refrigerators/dometic/RM2652_4.html

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So that Dinosaur Board should work. I will call them just to be sure.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
sorry for being a headach thanks

No problem..........it happens sometimes. We have to earn our money!

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N​o call back yet. I will try them this morning again. I see those Scotch Lox in that photo. Those can be troublesome. I am wondering if this is failing on the board due to a voltage fluctuation on LP. Keep your meter hooked up to DC volts and have someone work the controls. Watch for voltage drop on ignition tries. They try it on LP and watch. Let me know if any changes. I don't want to overlook anything here due to the unusual nature of this problem.

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Better to have both leads there come to the junction block rather than use those as long as they will reach.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
10-4

Let me know if anything changes and I hope to hear back from Dinosaur later this morning.

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I did hear back from Dinosaur Electronics today and they said that board is the replacement, but that they make it so it fits other applications as well. That plug you mentioned in not used on yours. Notice how the leads are marked and that might be different that yours. Pay attention to the thermocouple leads. If you get that polarity wrong it won't work correctly.

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W​hite thermocouple lead is negative and goes on the left side and the black lead is the positive and goes on the right side.

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I would take off those Scotch Lox and put both leads into the socket on the junction block.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
RandALL,

What was the message?

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
Fat finger sorry, I checked the voltage @ the terminal strip & again at the board going through the thermal fuse / over temp button circuit (red wire) , both @ an idle and under load (solenoid pulled in) a there was no significant voltage drop (see attached). I see that the board you quoted me was correct so I will go and order . I agree on the Scotch locks & will change out, will need to get the soldering iron out and do some serious splices (wire to shot to make terminal strip).
Question, Could anything in the eyebrow board be taking this down?

Doubtful on the eyebrow.

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Customer reply replied 3 months ago
10-4 will report back once new board is installed.

That and get rid of those Scotch Lox.

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J​ust checking back in to see if you were able to resolve this or not?

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Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Currently waiting on the Dinosaur Electronics(###) ###-####01 Replacement board. Should arrive mid week. will follow up after installed. Sorry for the later responce, I do field work also and did not have phone or internet access, the last two days.

No problem.........but, thanks for letting me know.

Randall
Randall, RVIA Certification
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 12,267
Experience: RVDA/RVIA Master Certified Technician with many years experience.
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Randall and 87 other RV Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 2 months ago
Randall,
The board was the problem thanks for all the help. One last problem when it fired up the burner was a bit out of alignment and I popped the thermal fuse. The nomenclature is worn off the fuse so I do not know it rating. I can get locally if I knew what the rating was.

Get an Atwood water heater thermal fuse and install that. Part number is ***** and comes is a two pack. Thanks for letting me know! Good job!

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Customer reply replied 2 months ago
I have the atwood thermal fuse as recommended. lookig at it make uo i do nit think it is going to fit in the orgional location and the dometic fuse. Any recommendations?

You have to cut the old fuse out and install a couple of female spade connectors in the line so you can clip it in.

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Customer reply replied 2 months ago
10-4
Customer reply replied 2 months ago
will this fit back in the origional location with the spades hanging out? it inserts 1-1.5" in a tube just to the left of the exhaust tube

Y​es, I know where it goes. There is some flexibility there. And this was meant to be a quick fix until you got the correct Dometic part. Those should be free at most RV shops as they come in the free recall kits. I don't know the part number for just that part, but I can find out.

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Customer reply replied 2 months ago
please

I will get back to you about that........

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