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Is the battery disconnect switch hit for "Use" and not for "Store" so the batteries are in the charging loop?
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You should see more like the actual alternator voltage when the engine is running. Are you sure you have it hooked up correctly? What is the make and part number of that part you installed?
It takes over 13 VDC to fully charge a 12 VDC battery. Fully charged they should read about 12.8 VDC.
Maybe just go to a continuous duty solenoid that works off the key switch and allow the alternator to provide the 14 VDC or so directly to the house batteries.
Maybe have the batteries load tested to be sure they are viable and not drawing down the voltage from an internal short. Then you need to find out why you aren't getting the voltage from the alternator. It may be failing. Testing it would show that.
Does that lead come directly from the alternator?
I don't have any access to those. You may need to get a good chassis manual from somebody like Faxon Automotive literature. Why didn't you want a sold state isolator?
I will ask them for you........