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The refrigerator is not working, 2014 Thor Freedom Elite 23…

The refrigerator is not...

The refrigerator is not working

Mechanic's Assistant: What's the make/model/year of your RV?

2014 Thor Freedom Elite 23 ft

Mechanic's Assistant: What is the model of your '14 RV?

2014 Thor Freedom Elite 23 ft

Mechanic's Assistant: Are you fixing your RV yourself? What have you tried so far?

It has a blinking light. There is propane (checked the stove, purged the gas line). No cooling on either electricity or gas.

Mechanic's Assistant: When did you last fill the tank? And do you smell gasoline around the engine?

The propane is low, but still plenty to light the stove. Refrigerator does not cool on leither electricity or proplane. propane.

Mechanic's Assistant: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?

Not sure what to check next.

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Answered in 1 minute by:
3/10/2017
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago
Robert
Robert, RV Mechanic
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 24,084
Experience: 23 yrs. RV experience including Cummins North West, Country Coach, Monaco Coach - vendor certified.
Verified

Hi my name is Robert....

What is the make and model of the fridge???

Robert

Should be a sticker inside the door, most likely it is a Dometic or Norcold but need the model number.

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Norcold 611N611, if that makes a difference.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

OK

So can you tell me the lights that are flashing, it should be giving you a code but it matters which lights are blinking and at what interval, click HERE and see page 8 and then tell me which one you are getting and I can go into details.... Robert

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
The light blinks on both electricity and gas settings. No cooling on either. The RV was used about 2 months ago and the refrigerator worked then.I'm looking up the code.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

10-4.

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
About a second interval on both settings.
Possible F5 fuse, according to the chart. Would that also affect the gas setting?
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

Let me look at the manual..... Which light is blinking the ON light?

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Oops, that's F3.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

Which light is blinking or what symptom are you reading??

It matters if just the ON light is flashing or the ON light with the gas light etc and at what interval?

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
correction. When set at "auto," bot the "on" and "gas" lights blink. When set on "gas," the "on" light holds and only the "gas" light blinks.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

OK

This is going to take some going back and forth and you are going to have to use the manual I sent to help you diagnose.

IN auto with the on and gas light blinking means the fridge did not sense the AC power and tried to switch over to LP gas and was unable to light off on gas.

I am going to go into some details for you but it will take me some time to respond back allot to cover.

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Thanks. I'll be patient, if can be, too.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

So since the fridge did not sense the AC power go to the outlet and check the outlet it is plugged into make sure it has power. Next unplug that cord and you will see a circuit board, the cover will come off, on the board is an AC fuse and a DC fuse. Make sure the AC fuse is not blown or the fridge will not work on AC power, if the fuse is good then you can ohm out the AC heating element and see if it is good. WE are at this point trying to figure out why the AC side is not working.

Also very important you check the DC input as that is what the board uses to power on the fridge and is the heart. IF the voltage was under 11 volts you could have all kinds of problems, again refer to the manual, it will tell how to ohm out the heating element, show the board with the fuses etc.....

IF you want me to get into why it is not working on LP I can, figure we can separate them but IF you like I can get into that.

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Which outlet are we talking about? Where is it? I just looked at the F4 fuse, which is fine.Arrg. Typo again. F3 fuse.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

The fridge should have a cord going to that circuit board, normally it is outside but you should see the cord going to it, it is what provides the AC power to the fridge.....

( I may have to step out in a bit for a few mins so if you do not get a response I am not ignoring you I will respond as I can)

Robert

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
I certainly understand "stepping out." That is what I am doing.As for the cord, this sounds like I need to remove the outside panel behind the 'fridge.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

Yes it should be near the circuit board, the cord goes right to it. It will plug into an outlet, make sure that outlet has power.

Robert

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
I found the cord. I am about to check the 120V.there is power at the outlet.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

OK

Not looking good you could have a bad lower circuit board if you have power at the outlet, and the fuse is good next check the DC input going into the fridge. Page 11 shows that, if the voltage is GOOD I would next ohm out the AC heating element, if that is good it has to be the lower circuit board, no need to try and troubleshoot the LP side.

Robert

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Odd. The multimeter reads about 75 volts on both shoreline and generator.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

OK

So try this get a cord and plug the fridge into an outside source.

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Roger. Fetching an extension cord now.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

10-4.

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Still blinking.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

OK

Try and remove the DC wires from the fridge for about 5 mins..... Page 11

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
12VDC into the board. So, you want me to disconnect the DC?
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

Yes try that for about 2 mins.

The ohm out the AC heating element..... PAGE 18

You can do that while it is unplugged

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Roger
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

Everything is checking out, we are doing a process of elimination, have one final test for you to do if the element ohms out good..... It is a long shot but want to make sure all our bases are covered... Robert

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Getting inconsistent resistance readings, but averaging about 20 ohms.When do you want me to reconnect the DC?
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

Yes hook up the DC power up, plug the fridge in what should happen is if it does not start on AC power and it is in auto you should hear the electrode start to spark when it switches over to LP. Let me know if it starts to spark.

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
The circuit board clicked several times, then I got an ignition spark.34;Gas" light went off. Checking again...hold on.No blinking. What changed?
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

IS it running on LP is the flame going???

Robert

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
Let me check again.Did you want me to switch to propane?It's been on "Auto."
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

SO right now what should happen is the flue canister where the heating element wires should be getting VERY hot, is it getting hot in that area??

IF all the lights are off it should be working, you could have a loose connector or bad ground on the connectors that plug into the board is my thinking....

Let me know...

IF you unplug the cord from the outlet it should start sparking and the flame should light off..... IF you are in auto.

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
The flue is hot. I'll unplug the 120VAC and check for propane ignition.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

OK.....

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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
The ignitor clicks, but no flame. However, I am low on propane. The stove lights, but there might no be enough for the refrigerator.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

Right so what I would do is get an air nozzle and blow out the burner tube really good, that is the tube below the electrode, want to make sure it is clear and clean.

Run it on AC power for now. I think we stumbled upon a loose connection at the board and get lucky on this so far. IF it continues to work on AC power but NOT LP, refer to the manual, lots of good stuff in there.

IF you are satisfied with my efforts please feel free to select a STAR rating on the page, it is the only way I get "credit" for helping out today........

Robert

Robert
Robert, RV Mechanic
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 24,084
Experience: 23 yrs. RV experience including Cummins North West, Country Coach, Monaco Coach - vendor certified.
Verified
Robert and 87 other RV Specialists are ready to help you
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Customer reply replied 5 years ago
You are certainly a "star." I appreciate your knowledge and patience. In the meantime, I'll look for the closest propane dealer and hope that takes care of the rest.Many thanks.
RV Mechanic: Robert, RV Mechanic replied 5 years ago

One tip as well when you open the main tank valve open the valve SLOWLY if that valve is opened to fast the regulator can lock up and you might not get the proper pressure, open it slowly...

Let me know if you still need more help, I am around daily and respond when I can...

Robert

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Robert
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Satisfied Customers: 24,084
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Experience: 23 yrs. RV experience including Cummins North West, Country Coach, Monaco Coach - vendor certified.

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