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I have a 2004 jayfeather exp. There is extensive water

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I have a 2004 jayfeather...
I have a 2004 jayfeather exp. There is extensive water damage to the front on the floor. It has a luan floor without many joists to nail a new floor to. So far we have removed the old subfloor. Do we need to remove the luan flooring and add joists in order to put new flooring in. I would rather not take the luan out although the bottom of it is wet as well
Submitted: 1 year ago.Category: RV
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Answered in 1 hour by:
9/15/2016
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago
Randall
Randall, RVIA Certification
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 12,143
Experience: RVDA/RVIA Master Certified Technician with many years experience.
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Is the luan separated and rippled up? A photo of that area would be helpful here. Use the paperclip icon to attach to your post.

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RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

Is the luan separated and rippled up? A photo of that area would be helpful here. Use the paperclip icon to attach to your post.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
We took the top layer of luan off which in retrospect was a bad idea. Not all of the areas had rippled up
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
we have taken the top layer off to where we found a joist about 4 feet from the front of the trailer
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I think we should have just dried it out and done the bad areas
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Now we are going to run a 2x4 across the width of the trailer so it is over the steel frame on both ends by cutting out the styrofoam and attaching it to the wood on the sides with a u-clamp.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

I would go ahead and take that area off and then put down new luan in those areas. Use Loctite XL adhesive and some crown staples if you can. Make the joints go over the support structure or you can add some. We do both in my shop. I have one now that has the same issue. If you have a flush-cut style saw this can be done pretty easily. Or we use a very small blade (4") skillsaw set to just enough to get through the luan.

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RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

Did you cut all the way through the whole floor?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Just enough to add the 2x4
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
But yes cut down to the bottom of the styrofoam so we could add the 2x4 and it will be flush with the new subfloor we put down
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

If you use the proper adhesive and some deck screws you won't have to clamp it. Add some photos if you need to here.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
we were thinking of doing the same thing in the other directions using the joist we founnd 4 feet from the front of the trailer to the joist at the front of the trailer. we were going to add uclamps for extra support
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
to join the 2x4's to the existing joists
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Whoever thought of this floor system should be shot.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

If you use the proper adhesive and some deck screws you won't have to clamp it. Add some photos if you need to here.

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RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

And, yes.......it isn't the best for sure! They were trying to save weight so smaller tow vehicles could tow larger trailers.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Trying to get you pictures from my cell phone but not very tech savy
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
the luan under the styrofoam is very wet. Any way we can dry that out without cutting the bottom membrane of the trailer?
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

Leave it open and the windows open for as long as it takes to dry out. Otherwise it will dry rot.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Not sure what you mean. How will leaving the windows open dry the luan that is under the styrofoam in the floor. I am sure it is wet even under the areas we have not opened up.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
The moisture barrier under the trailer stops the moisture from drying up
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I have read that some people open the area under the trailer for it to dry and then buy special tape to tape it back together.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
What did you think of the pictures?
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

Remove any styrofoam in those squares and it will dry faster. it may take some time, but it will dry. You can open up the bottom, but that is a last resort as you can't really seal it up again as good as it is now.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
What will I replace the styrofoam in those squares with? Will I have to buy the thin luan, and styrofoam to fill them in?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
If I had my way (without husband's opinion) I would take out all the styrofoam, put in more joists, add styrofoam again and then put new floor on top.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Trouble is we really don't want to take all the cabinets out because we don't know how. For example the hot water heater.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Until we get that out we can't get the back cabinet out which only hides the electrical.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

You can buy more Styrofoam at the lumber yard or hardware store. Luan paneling comes in 4 x 8 sheets. Taking out the cabinets would be a bad idea unless it is really bad under them. Hot water heater can come out to access that area. It is a chore, but it you can do this yourself, it will save you a ton of money! The one I just took in will be about $3,500 I suspect.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Went to 3 rv repair shops today and they suggested we take the bottom membrane of completely, weld new supports to the bottom of the trailer and put a plywood flooring system in. They suggested we treat the plywood to discourage water damage.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

That works for part of it, but what about the part you can't access? There are surely more than one way to do this for sure.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
My husband wants to take the front have of the membrane covering off the bottom of the trailer, put it a plywood floor and then spray the bottom of the trailer with a no leak product.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
sorry front half of the membrane
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
My concern is how do you attach the membrane to the trailer bottom along the cutting line.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

Depending on the product you use that could work. As I said before, there are more than one way to do this. We staple it and cover the joint with special tape made for repairing those.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
What would you suggest now?
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

You are going to have to find a way to get the plywood under the edge of the wall for one. And when we have a joint in the repair, we take and rout out the wood down some so that we an make a Luan plywood overlap so that is some strength in that bond. That can be 4 to 6 inches wide.

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RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

I will be out most of the afternoon and then checking back in this evening when I get home.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
That seems like an impossible task. Can we use clamps to attach the flooring to any wall joists?
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

Not that I know of..........and why is this impossible?

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Is there a way to remove the studs under the walls since a good portion of the one side is rotten as well. We would replace them with new studs or is wood hardener a possibility.
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
Could we take out the real bad parts, replace it with new wood and then sister the studs together?
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

You can cut them off with a die grinder and cutoff wheel. That is an air tool, but you might be able to use a Dremel of similar tool to cut them off. You are going to have to take part of the wall covering off I suspect to get to the point where you can put some new screws in. You have to have the walls secured to the frame. If there are bolts, you can slot the wood and use that to go around them and leave them intact. I am making a phone option offer for you. I think this is much easier to resolve in that format and no time limit or on number of calls.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
If I pull the walls away are they then not delaminated?
Customer reply replied 1 year ago
We are considering the phone option but not quite willing to spend another 35$ on top of the 60$ we have put out. I realize it is probably the best option but right now we will continue like this.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

My phone option is $9........unlimited time and number of calls!

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
I just reread your post. Would we be taking the wall covering off on the inside our outside?
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

The lower part of the inside wall............UNLESS you are leaving the bolts (if that is how they attached the wall to the frame) intact.

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Customer reply replied 1 year ago
that sound reasonable. We are done for the day but I will tell my husband about your offer and we may accept and talk tomorrow.
RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

10-4

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RV Mechanic: Randall, RVIA Certification replied 1 year ago

Just checking back in to see if you were able to resolve this issue or not? If you still need some additional input from me please let me know. Thanks!

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Randall
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