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I have a Gulfstream Conquest 2015. I wired a 30a (220)outlet…

I have a Gulfstream Conquest...
I have a Gulfstream Conquest 2015. I wired a 30a (220)outlet in my garage, and quickly learned that it should have been 110. I have since replaced with 110, and replaced the converter in the trailer. The appliances, and AC are not working. Is there any troubleshooting that I can do, or do I have to replace all of these?
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Answered in 4 minutes by:
5/10/2016
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
Michael Reush
Michael Reush, RV Technician
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 3,309
Experience: Serving the rv industry since 1977
Verified
Hi, the first thing to check is the auto transfer switch that switches power from shore power to generator power . from your description it appears that you have 30 amp service, is this correct?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
yes. where is that switch, and how do I check?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
And have you tested to see if there is power arriving at the 110 distribution panel the breakers? The transfer switch is wired in between the shoreline and the distribution panel. will normally be mounted on the floor. its a square metal box with 3 sets of wires going to it
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
How would I do this?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
you will need a ac multi meter. go to the interior breaker panel remove the cover and test for the presence of ac power at the breakers
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
I had to go get the voltage meter. Based on what I can see, there is no power at the breakers.i just place one end on breaker and the other on the white wire connection, right?
Customer reply replied 6 years ago
actually, now that I know how to work and read the meter, there is 122v coming out of every single breaker.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
hi, that verifies that the switch has been compromised. It may be located behind the breakerpanel in the cabinet on the floor
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
nothing like that behind the panel. could it be somewhere else?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
look in the exterior compartments by the shoreline look on the walls
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
nothing like that anywhere. The shoreline comes out the back on an exterior wall with no compartments.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
thanks, ***** ***** point contact gulfstream, give them your vin number, and ask them for the exact location of the switch(###) ###-#### ***** contact the selling dealer and contact the service dept for its location
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
what is the name of the switch? What do I call it when asking them?You are aware that I do not have a generator, right?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
its the 30 amp automatic transfer switch. also I was thinking, as theshoreline comes into the rear of the coach, look to see inside in that area if you can access the wiring and follow . And no not aware of no generator....is there an accomidation for it?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
I have, and it comes right into the converter. There is no switch.
Just letting you know I do not have a generator.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
this changes the situation. at this point with power into the shoreline (test outlet) and no power to the breaker panel, you must trace out the line beginning at the junction box that ties in the shoreline and follow the line into the breaker pane with your votmeter
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i do have power to the breaker panel. I have 122v coming out of every single breaker.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
good. this is a change. lets take the items that are not working individually check the outlets where the appliances are not working.
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
OK. The only appliance not working is the fridge. It comes on and after a few minutes the "check" light comes on. Sounds at that point like its trying to switch to gas. I need to figure out why its not cooling with power.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
you are correct in that the check light is a failure of the gas operation. go behind the refer, and find the outlet it is plugged into, ck the outlet for power. this outlet is on the gfi circuit, so check the gfi in the bathroom, and make sure it does not need to be reset
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
i cant figure out how to get behind the fridge.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
there should be an access door to get to the refer outside behind it
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
the gfi in the bathroom had to be reset. Turned the fridge off and back on a gain......after 3-4 min, it switches back over to the check light. Do I still need to ck the outlet that the fridge is plugged into?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
yes, it could also be that a fuse on the control board has blown,so we first need to check the outlet, then if there is power, the fuse is next. Is the refer set on auto? thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Yes.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
have you had a chance to access the outlet?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Negative. I will do it tomorrow afternoon. Thanks.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
ok talk to you then. would you please take this time to rate me as this is how I receive credit for our work together.....thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Will we still be able to continue the conversation? I will need your help tomorrow
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
yes, we will work together as long as it takes...............Michael
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
K. I will rate you as excellent tomorrow
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
thanks talk to you then
Michael Reush
Michael Reush, RV Technician
Category: RV
Satisfied Customers: 3,309
Experience: Serving the rv industry since 1977
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
OK. I got to the outlet for the fridge......122v at the outlet. Popped open a box at bottom of fridge and there was a 5a/250v fuse blown. Replaced, and just fired up. Hopefully, this solves it. Thanks for all of your help. Ill let you know if this doesn't solve it.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
Excellent, thanks for the rating, and the bonus!!! I will be here if you need further assistance.........Michael
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
so everything appears to be working correctly, but the problem is that I dont think the fridge is cooling. Does this mean the fridge is fried?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
let the refrigerator run overnight, and check temps in the freezer and box in the morning, let me know what the temps are, check to make sure the heaters are working by the back getting hot. thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
so I switched the fridge to gas, and we have the freezer working, but not the fridge part. Any suggestions?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
is it cooling at all in the box,can you take temps with a thermometer in the freezer and the box. When was the last time you used it and it was working properly? how long has it been running?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
I havent used it in a month or so. The fridge part is room temperature. The freezer will keep ice frozen. Never had a problem, until we plugged it into 220.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
this is interesting, as the introduction of improper power supply has no effect on the refers cooling ability, its control system yes. what is the model number of it? located on a data sticker inside the box
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
DM2652LBX
Dometic Corp
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
hi, here is a link to the literature clickhere, go to page 12 please get back to me for clarification if necessary. thanks Michaelhi, disregard my last, it is for another issue. however the 2652 can have an issue with its thermister this is the sensor on the coils in the refer open the control box, and you will see a two pin connector upper left, disconnect it and run overnight, and again, let me know if there is a change.thanks
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
is this in the back? Or in the actual fridge?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
the pin connector is in the back on the control module
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Same place I replaced the fuse?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
yes
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
This is the one that says p2 sensor?
I have unplugged, and turning back on auto.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
two pin p2
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
I'll let you know what happens. Taking it out this weekend. Hopefully, this works.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
what this does is operate the box without control, to let it get as cold as the cooling unit will produce
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
the fridge and freezer are both room temperature this morning. neither is cooling now.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
hi is the refer hot in the back this assures its on
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Negative. Not hot. It only gets hot when I use gas
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
do you want to go further with the ac operation, or run on gas to see if it works in the box?
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
we are actually heading to a campsite in the next hr. Ill get hooked up, and see if it works on gas. Will let you know......Thanks!
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
have fun run with the thermister off of the board
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
OK. Used this weekend. Only the freezer worked, and gas only. Been plugged back up for a couple of days, and the freezer and box are not cooling. any further suggestions?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
Hi, lets test the ac heating element. go to the control board, you will see the heater in the heat stack follow the two wires back to the board. Make sure to unplug at the outlet. Now unplug the heater wires from the board, with your ohm meter check between the two wires for continuity. then plug the refer back in and check at the connections on the board with the refer on electric see if there is 120volts ac..........
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
is the ohm meter the same as the voltage meter? How do I test for continuity?
Customer reply replied 6 years ago
cant figure out the continuity deal......
but, tested the wires at circuit board running to heat stack. One connection tests 120v, but the other is dead...nothing.
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
check from one wire to the other, should be 120vac, the continuity tells us if the element is 'open' and bad or closed and good. same meter, switch to ohms.............when you put the leads together, the meter should go to 000000
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
So I placed the meter, 1 on the end of 1 wire, and 1 on the end of the other. Nothing on the meter. Just reads oL
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
thanks from your description, the element is bad, and will need to be replaced to have ac operationand this can relate to the overvoltage
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Customer reply replied 6 years ago
Ok. Something I can handle? Where do I get the element? What does it look like?
RV Mechanic: Michael Reush, RV Technician replied 6 years ago
Hi, here is a link to the part, and a photohttp://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-0173742180-Refrigerator-Heating-Element-AC-325W-B-/172174719317
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