Have RV Questions? Ask an RV Mechanic Online.
This can be one of several things. If the furnace hasn't been used in some time the air may not have been vacuated from the LP line and it may take up to 5 tries to get it to fire. It can be due to low LP pressure at the tank regulator. This should be checked and adjusted at least once a year. Many times this annual maintenance is overlooked. It can be the control board as these are made in China and not that good. Lots of failures here. I am adding a link to the Atwood Furnace Manual for you as that has some good trouble shooting steps in there. If you don't have an outside inspection panel the furnace has to be pulled out from the inside in order to check the board. Low input DC voltage can do this as well. That can be checked easily with a small digital multimeter. About $20 or so at most hardware stores and easy to use. Get back to me if you need assistance with the testing. I will make a phone chat offer for you as well as some of our customers prefer this method of conversation. All follow ups are included in our fee.
Click on the attached link for the Atwood Manual. Print out a copy as there is a lot of good information in there. http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/hflamefurn04.pdf
Just checking back in to see if the manual link I gave you was helpful here and whether or not you were able to resolve this issue? Please get back to me if we need to dig deeper into this.
It doesn't have a pilot light.........it is fully electronic. Did you find out what make and model of furnace you have? It would help if I had that information.
If you can see the error code on the board, then there is a good chance that after repeated tries this may be a defective control board. It is a frequent problem in these newer furnaces with an OEM board. They are made in China and not very reliable. You can take that into a shop for testing. It just unplugs from the wiring. The two wires on the motor circuit are sized for the proper spade on the board so you can't mix them up. The high tension lead just pulls off the tang. IF you need a new board, I would go with an after market product made by Dinosaur Electronics as they are far superior to the OEM boards and have an outstanding warranty. About $125 or so.
Just checking back in to see if you were able to get this resolved or do you still need some assistance here?