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Have you checked at the rear of the fridge to be sure that power is available there? Do you have a small digital multimeter for some testing? Get back to me with this and I can assist you further.
This can be an issue in the selector switch OR the heating elements as long as there is adequate power to both the DC feed and the mains. I am adding a link for this manual in case you don't have one. IF you have a small digital multimeter we can do some testing and sort this out. It would seem odd that both heating elements would go bad at the same time, but it is possible. Hope this proves helpful here. Please get back to me if you need more as all follow ups are included in our fee. http://file:///C:/Users/RANDALL%20GIBBONS/Downloads/266401en.pdf
I don't know what that last link was............ see the following one and choose English. http://www.dometicmanuals.com/PROD/MASTERDometic.nsf?Opendatabase
Are you sure that it still works on LP (gas) mode and cools well? When the back coils are hot and the fridge isn't cooling, it usually indicates that the cooling unit has a blockage. IF that is the case, it won't cool on any mode as that cooling unit gets "heat" from 3 sources, but uses the same unit and parts. Either that, or the heating element is still allowing it to get warm, but just not hot enough to do a good job cooling. IF that is the case, then the heating element is usually bad and needs to be replaced. Double check the unit on LP mode just to be sure about that and let me know what happens.
The fridge has to be level......or not out of level more than 3 degrees. Not much! Turn it off and let it sit for a few hours and level it up before you turn it back on......hopefully, it didn't damage the cooling unit. Let me know what happens.
Did that solve the problem? If not, we can look deeper into the controls or testing the cooling unit.